My Big Turbo 1.8T 4Motion Passat Build Thread

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Thread: My Big Turbo 1.8T 4Motion Passat Build Thread

  1. #1
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    My Big Turbo 1.8T 4Motion Passat Build Thread

    Hi everybody.

    I wanted to take the opportunity to share a project that I have been dreaming of working on ever since I had my first Passat back in high school….a big turbo 4motion B5.5. But first, a little about myself…

    I grew up in NJ, went to school in PA for mechanical engineering, and moved to southeast CT about two years ago where I work as a structural engineer. With a stable income, I started saving up for my first project car. A year later, I started looking for a Passat with a 1.8T, 4motion, and a 5-speed. This configuration was only available in 2004 which certainly limited my options but after a few months of searching, one showed up for sale in northern CT. The previous owner took excellent care of the car and I bought it on the spot.

    My first project! A 2004 Passat with a 1.8T, 4motion, a 5-speed and 110,000 miles on the clock.



    The plan: Big turbo and 400awhp

    Current Parts List:

    Block
    Wiseco Forged Pistons (stock bore and stroke)
    IE 144x20 Connecting Rods (w/ rifle drilling)
    ARP Main Studs
    ARP Head Studs
    OEM Main & Rod Bearings
    ARP Crank Bolt
    IE Billet Timing Gear

    Head
    AEB head (bought used from someone on Audizine, 150k miles on it)
    Supertech Exhaust Valves (Stainless Steel)
    Supertech Valve Springs & Retainers
    IE Valve Guides
    IE Intake & Exxhaust Stem Seals

    Turbo
    GT3071R

    Fueling/Intake
    TBD on the injectors/fuel pump (1000cc???)
    SEM Intake Manifold
    70mm Throttle Body
    Treadstone Intercooler

    Drivetrain
    Clutchmasters FX400 (Full Face)
    Clucthmasters Steel Flywheel
    ARP Flywheel Bolts

    Soon after I purchased the car, I moved it into the garage where it would be at home for quite some time.



    Beginning the disassembly…

    Lock carrier removed.



    (with my buddy’s Nissan hardbody SR20DET swapped drift truck project in the background)

    I didn’t take a lot of exciting pictures as I continued to disconnect things in preparation of pulling the engine. A lot of close ups of connections/wiring/plumbing so I remember how it all goes back together. So fast forward a couple steps and….

    Engine coming out!




    After taking the clutch and flywheel off.


    On the engine stand. Transferring the engine from the hoist to the stand proved to be a lot more difficult than I expected with just one person…




    Removing a bunch of accessories and the valve cover.



    Doesn’t look too bad at all for 110k miles! I had picked up an AEB head which I’m planning on using though.


    Marking TDC on the cam sprocket and timing belt for reference.


    Similar marks on the crank dampener.


    One more shot before removing the timing belt.


    After that, I removed the head bolts per the sequence in Bentley and popped off the head.


    Cylinders looked pretty good. I could still see the original cross hatch.

    Upside down to remove the oil pump.


    Oil pump removed (Sorry for the blurry pic)


    Crankshaft, rods and pistons removed.


    Just about fully stripped block.


    Stock rods and pistons. Won’t be needing these again!


    Crankshaft.


    One more picture of the block.


    I bought an AEB head from an Audizine member for $300. The head has 150k miles on it and looks to be in good shape.


    Beginning to disassemble the AEB head.


    Camshafts removed. The girlfriend wasn’t a huge fan of my bedroom smelling like oil



    Moved the head to the garage for valve/valve spring removal.


    Just a collection of miscellaneous engine parts.


    My buddy and his drift truck project moved out so I relocated the Passat project to the other side of the garage where there was a little more room. The new set up:


    Car parts. Some old, some new!


    With the head and block fully disassembled, it was time for the fun part to begin. First step was a trip to the machine shop. Luckily, there is a very well respected machine shop not too far from me- Larry’s Auto in Groton. They work on everything from big block Chevy’s to 700hp Subarus to Volvos. I swung by and talked to them about my project and what I wanted done.

    I had the head clean, resurfaced, and new valve guides installed. The block was cleaned, decked, and the cylinders were honed. Total cost was a little over $700. Not the cheapest place around but they do top notch work and have a stellar reputation.


    I picked the head and block up this week and I couldn’t be happier with how they turned out!



















    That’s where I’m currently at with the build. Should begin assembly this week! I look forward to updating this thread as I go.

    Thanks for looking!

    And some parts waiting to go in…

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    RETIRED Super Stealth Moderator JayTheSnork's Avatar
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    I want to personally see this one. I'm right across the river...
    PZ likes this.

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    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
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    If Jay doesn't get to drive it... it didn't happen.


    Awesome pix so far! Great build plan too!

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    Great work bro!!!!

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    I am unfamiliar with this type of build but am always interested in what people do.
    I have a question, why was the original head swapped out for an AEB? Are they stronger?
    TomK

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    Quote Originally Posted by kutcht1 View Post
    I am unfamiliar with this type of build but am always interested in what people do.
    I have a question, why was the original head swapped out for an AEB? Are they stronger?
    TomK
    Larger intake and exhaust ports for better flow north of 5K rpm.

    Nice project Lesty! Only critique I have is: Why not 1984cc? Heavy VW's need more low rpm off-the-line grunt...that is unless you're planning to have a "clutch budget".

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTheSnork View Post
    I want to personally see this one. I'm right across the river...
    Waterford, that is right across the river! Right now it's not much to see as it's just a bunch of parts but hopefully some day soon it will be worthwhile

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in Chicago View Post
    If Jay doesn't get to drive it... it didn't happen.


    Awesome pix so far! Great build plan too!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by benzivr6 View Post
    Great work bro!!!!
    Thanks bud

    Quote Originally Posted by kutcht1 View Post
    I am unfamiliar with this type of build but am always interested in what people do.
    I have a question, why was the original head swapped out for an AEB? Are they stronger?
    TomK
    Like Electron Man said, AEB heads have larger intake ports which improve flow at higher RPM/horsepower. I know there is some discussion on the actual pro's & con's. You get higher flow velocities into the cylinder with the narrower intake ports which I believe has its benefits. But this is a little beyond my expertise

    Quote Originally Posted by Electron Man View Post
    Larger intake and exhaust ports for better flow north of 5K rpm.

    Nice project Lesty! Only critique I have is: Why not 1984cc? Heavy VW's need more low rpm off-the-line grunt...that is unless you're planning to have a "clutch budget".
    Thank you! I'm sticking with the stock displacement because I had to draw the line somewhere regarding how much $$ I wanted to invest in this project. With the boost lag from the larger turbo I already know it's going to be slow off the line until boost kicks in.

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    A friend had a dial bore gauge that he let me borrow so I used that to take some cylinder bore measurements. I've already had the block machined and the pistons ordered so these measurements are really just out of curiosity/learning how to use a bore gauge.

    I took measurements at the top, middle, and bottom of the cylinders. At each location I measured parallel to the crankshaft axis (longitudinal) and perpendicular to the crankshaft axis (side to side).



    I used calipers to calibrate the bore gauge and I think my calipers may be slightly off as all my bore measurements are about 0.0015" smaller than the nominal bore size (nominal bore size is 81.01mm/3.1894" according to the Bentley).

    Anyways, out-of-roundness and taper of the cylinders was minimal which seems good. I made some tables in Excel.

    Out-of-roundness is the longitudinal measurement minus the side-to-side measurement. Taper is the difference in diameter compared to the diameter at the top of the cylinder.



    Once I figure out the calibration I'll post the actual measurements.

  10. #9
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    Nice introduction. Be sure to add upgraded mounts to hold all of that in place. Eventually you may need a stronger trans, but hopefully not too soon. Good luck, I wish I had the budget to go with a larger turbo on mine. I would go with at least a 2.0 build before a BT, I prefer torque over HP.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    Nice introduction. Be sure to add upgraded mounts to hold all of that in place. Eventually you may need a stronger trans, but hopefully not too soon. Good luck, I wish I had the budget to go with a larger turbo on mine. I would go with at least a 2.0 build before a BT, I prefer torque over HP.
    Thank you. Motor mounts are definitely on the list. I know I'm going to be pushing the limits of the transmission, if/when it does go I'll start planning the 01e swap.

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    Started to assemble the block tonight.

    All the engine parts bagged and tagged from disassembly.


    Block back on the engine stand.




    Oil squirters installed and torqued to 20 ft-lbs.


    ARP main studs installed. Per the instructions, threads are oiled and tightened in the block. No torque spec given.


    OEM main bearings put it and lubed up with assembly lube.


    Dropped the crank in after a thorough cleaning of all the bearing surfaces.




    Main caps and bearings ready to go on. No assembly lube applied yet as I'll be using plastigage to check the clearances.


    I applied plastigage to the main journals and installed the main caps. The ARP nuts were torqued to 60 ft-lbs in three stages (20, 40, 60 ft-lbs). Once that was complete, I removed the main caps and measured the plastigage.

    Checking main #1.


    All five main cap bearings with the plastigage.


    Main bearing clearances:
    #1: 0.0020"
    #2: 0.0020"
    #3: 0.0018"
    #4: 0.0017"
    #5: 0.0020"

    The measurements for #3 and #4 were in between the .0015 and .002 markings so I estimated.

    Main bearing clearances look good

    I cleaned the plastigage off of all the surfaces and lubed up the main cap bearings for final installation.


    Main caps installed and torqued.






    Spins nice and free (click for video)
    KSEADUB and VAGguy like this.

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    Kudos on taking on this project and doing such a great job of documenting it. It's way beyond my level of expertise, but I always enjoy seeing projects that are outside of the box. I'll be following this thread closely to see how it turns out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_video View Post
    Kudos on taking on this project and doing such a great job of documenting it. It's way beyond my level of expertise, but I always enjoy seeing projects that are outside of the box. I'll be following this thread closely to see how it turns out.
    Thanks buddy. This is my first engine build of this level so I am really learning as I go. I've done a lot of research and reading online and I've read through just about every 1.8T build thread on vwvortex multiple times to see what others have done.


    I checked the axial endplay of the crankshaft this morning with a dial indicator. Endplay was 0.003" which seems to be the target everyone shoots for. Bentley specifies 0.0028-0.0091" as the acceptable range so looks like I'm good



    Up next- rod and piston assembly!

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    I saw this today.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTheSnork View Post
    I saw this today.
    Thanks for stopping by!

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    Cool work! How many hp you gonna get after all work will be done?

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    Quote Originally Posted by blagoje View Post
    Cool work! How many hp you gonna get after all work will be done?
    Goal is 400hp at the wheels when I'm all done. Thanks for looking!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lesty View Post
    Goal is 400hp
    Sick!

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    Great project, can't wait for the end result. Good luck

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    don't forget the 034 MS phenolic intake spacer!
    i'm happy to say it was well worth purchasing for my 1.8t aeb/awm hybrid motor.
    PZ likes this.

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    Do you plan on keeping the MAF or going MAF-less

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    most tunes actually tend to work better with a maf installed, from what i've seen. the car can much better predict airflow for more accurate lambda monitoring.

    it's full-well possible to run without it, but it will run better with it, provided the tune is prepared for it.

    that said, what tune are you going to go with?

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    I put together this spec booklet for reference on engine assembly when I built my 2008cc motor. Feel free to use it and send me anything else you may have come across that I didn't include.
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bashir Sivai View Post
    Great project, can't wait for the end result. Good luck
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by sipes216 View Post
    don't forget the 034 MS phenolic intake spacer!
    i'm happy to say it was well worth purchasing for my 1.8t aeb/awm hybrid motor.
    Thanks for the heads up. On SEM's website they state a phenolic spacer shouldn't be used with their intake manifold so the 034 spacer is probably a no go though.

    Quote Originally Posted by smac4th View Post
    Do you plan on keeping the MAF or going MAF-less
    I'm undecided right now but I was leaning towards mafless primarily because it would simplify the intake.

    Quote Originally Posted by sipes216 View Post
    most tunes actually tend to work better with a maf installed, from what i've seen. the car can much better predict airflow for more accurate lambda monitoring.

    it's full-well possible to run without it, but it will run better with it, provided the tune is prepared for it.

    that said, what tune are you going to go with?
    Probably United Motorsports since they are kinda local but still considering options.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crispy222 View Post
    I put together this spec booklet for reference on engine assembly when I built my 2008cc motor. Feel free to use it and send me anything else you may have come across that I didn't include.
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing
    This is awesome, thank you! I'll definitely be referencing this as I go. Nice work

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