Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

2.8 30v timing help

Tags
30v help timing
5.6K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  Tomvw  
#1 ·


hello all. i know this question has been asked a lot but due to conflicting information i have found i was wanting to get a few opinions on if this head timing is right before i swap heads out on my car. since the general consensuses is that the Haynes manual is wrong with the count of 16 rollers in between. thanks for any help.
 
#6 · (Edited)
It would help if you answered my questions.


NOTE: After some research, I have discovered that some of this wiki.ross-tech info is also incorrect,
the V6 Bank 1 timing is as the 1.8; NOT as shown in the diagram.
See the images at the bottom of this page: 16730/P0346 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Here are some pics provided by KSEADUB, which show the correct timing for the 1.8 and both V6 heads.


Pictures of the passenger side V6 (Bank 1) cam chain. (These also apply to the 1.8)

Exhaust cam:



Intake:


Overall:




Shots of the Cam Chain timing driver side V6 (Bank 2):

Exhaust:


Intake:


Overall:


I pulled the crank lock pin and cam locking bar out, and then turned the engine over twice... and everything ended up lined up again. :) To be sure, I re-fit the crank lock pin, and used the cam lock bar. It didnt slide in as easily as it had before I turned the crank, but with a little finagling, it went back in.

Exhaust cam drivers side before turning over:


Exhaust Cam passenger side before turning over:


Exhaust Cam drivers side after turning over w/ crank lock pin in:


Exhaust Cam passenger side after turning over w/ crank lock pin in:
 
#7 ·
Sorry man I thought I had put in the original that it was passenger side. My bad. Replacing that head since intake cam got out of time on that head and bent middle intake valve on middle cylinder and already had a low mileage head that I've already had to the machine shop for cleaning and resurfacing. OK so if I go one roller to the left of the exhaust tooth I have 16 teeth so that would be correct.
 
#8 ·
Ensure that the cam chain is set correctly. It should be as shown in the first 3 pics in post #6.
Then follow the instructions below and remove and replace the head/s between 5) and 6).


Instructions for V6 Timing Belt replacement.
I suggest you carefully, and precisely in the order listed:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
1) Turn the crank to TDC. (Cylinder #3 TDC)
2) Compress the TB tensioner using an Allen wrench (clockwise) in the tensioner roller, and fit the pin in the tensioner.
3) Remove the Timing Belt.
4) Turn the crank counter-clockwise to about 45-60 degrees before TDC. (valves can't hit pistons in this position)
5) Remove the cam pulleys, and refit leaving them just loose enough to turn freely.
6) Then use the cam lock bar to turn the exhaust cams so the large holes in the pulley plates are facing inwards (toward each other), and fit the cam locking bar.
6a) Re-check cam chain timing, correct if required. (Not necessary if chains haven't been touched)
7) Turn crank clockwise to the timing mark on crank pulley, and fit the crank lock pin.
8) Fit the water pump, thermostat, TB tensioner, idler roller, and tensioner roller.
9) Fit the TB on the crank pulley first, then working in a counter-clockwise direction, fit it around all the other pulleys.
Make sure the belt is tight everywhere except the section that goes over the tensioner roller.
10) Release the load on the pin in the tensioner with an Allen wrench in the pulley (clockwise), remove the pin.
11) Allow a couple of minutes for the tensioner to extend, then pretension the TB, using a torque wrench in the tensioner roller turn counter-clockwise to a torque of 132in-lbs (15Nm).
12) Tighten the cam pulley bolts to 41ft-lbs (55Nm). (With cam bar still installed)
13) Remove the cam locking bar and crank lock pin.
14) Carefully turn crank 2 full turns clockwise back to TDC and recheck timing.
15) Put the rest of the car back together and go for a drive.