Is this a reasonable quote for my Timing belt?

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Thread: Is this a reasonable quote for my Timing belt?

  1. #1
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    Is this a reasonable quote for my Timing belt?

    04 V6 167.000 miles. Unknown when this was previously completed. The car appears to have been serviced as required by the PO

    Is there anything not listed that should be done?

    Timing Belt,Tensioner Pulley, Timing Belt Tensioner Damper, Timing Belt Idler Pulley, Water Pump (with upgraded Metal Impeller), associated
    Water Pump Gasket, Thermostat, Camshaft Seals, Front Crankshaft Seal, Serpentine Engine Drive Belt and then add new Coolant for
    the system.

    Job Subtotal: $1,296.56

    I had them quote replacing the Transmission multi-function switch that I just did myself.
    $800.00

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  3. #2
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    I think reasonable for the TB and crank seal would be $750. Add $100 for the cam seals?

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    Thats real high, you be better off getting the parts and finding a reputable mechanic to do it on the side or at his house. Thats what I did.

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  6. #4
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    A little on the high side, even for everything listed. Camshaft seals aren't usually an issue (until ~200K) in my experience...I also took a risk and left the front crank seal alone when changing my 1.8T AEB timing belt (@95K) ~3 yrs ago.

    $1050 to $1150 would be a "more decent" price with the mechanic sourcing the parts (because you shouldn't expect a mechanic to warranty the work they do for one year if you supply the parts).

  7. #5
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    what you're going to run into is labor cost. While many will tell you this isn't really that hard of a job, that has nothing to do with how shops bill labor now a days. Almost all reputable shops bill according to the standard job hours allotted for this job. I just had mine done and it was more expensive than what you're talking about here; i had a few extra's tacked on but it was just a tad over $1800 bucks. I travel a lot for work and really don't have much time to wrench on things, work, travel, and family. I got 4 quotes from recommended local shops and they were all in the same range, so I went with the closest. He did a good job.

    Again, most good shops, and this is what you should really look out for, don't overcharge for parts. They will all, again the reputable ones, provide an itemized breakdown of overall cost into parts and labor. YOu can directly check their parts quote/prices versus online retailers like ECS and see exactly what the markup is. Then, then real comparison is labor rates.

    I don't know how to advise you to judge a man on how well he pays himself, his employees, and how efficiently he runs his shop.

  8. #6
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    wanted to add that i think the standard hours to do this job is around 7. take how much they're charging for labor and divide that by 7 and you'll have a good estimate of their shop rate. Most good shops seem to be around 75-100 bucks per labor hour.

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    last thing i want to add is that when i got mine down this last time, the guy called me and said, "your cam seals on both sides are dry, so I wouldn't change them." so i didn't.

    and now guess what's leaking and guess who's getting a burning oil smell every time i crank my car. Guess what's going to cost me more money to get fixed.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjpark View Post
    04 V6 167.000 miles. Unknown when this was previously completed. The car appears to have been serviced as required by the PO

    Is there anything not listed that should be done?

    Timing Belt,Tensioner Pulley, Timing Belt Tensioner Damper, Timing Belt Idler Pulley, Water Pump (with upgraded Metal Impeller), associated
    Water Pump Gasket, Thermostat, Camshaft Seals, Front Crankshaft Seal, Serpentine Engine Drive Belt and then add new Coolant for
    the system.

    Job Subtotal: $1,296.56

    I had them quote replacing the Transmission multi-function switch that I just did myself.
    $800.00
    What's the parts/labor breakdown?

  11. #9
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    As much fun as you had with the MFS, I would expect you can do the timing belt too

    I find the price reasonable for a shop. I have never seen a front crank seal leak on the V6, but at that mileage, it's a good idea to replace it while you are in there. You will need a new crank bolt as they are TTY.

  12. #10
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    I'm convinced the crank seals only leak in the northern half of the country where it gets really cold. I know that's a lame ass statement, but from the 10 years I've been in this Forum I can't remember anybody complaining about leaking crankshaft seals in the lower states.

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    Thank you for all the replies.

    What are we talking about with the 'crank seal'?? I have never seen this brought up in a TB replacement. This car has been in NC it's entire life and will remain here with me untill it becomes a parts car lol

    The PO had it serviced at the dealers here since new but there are no records because they didn't have it on the road for ~ 6-8 months prior to me buying it and possibly didn't have a need to take it in beforehand for the same amount of time so all the dealers purged it's service records.

    It was in great condition and seems to have been taken care of like the PO stated.

  14. #12
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    Sometimes people like to change out the crank seal when they do a full on timing belt change. At the point you're at when doing a timing belt change all that's required is removing the big bolt on the front of the crankshaft and slide the toothed pulley off, and right there is the crankshaft seal. It's one of those 'as long as I'm in there' scenarios. To change it at that point only makes sense rather than pulling the whole front of the car apart for one $3 item.
    JayTheSnork and jjpark like this.

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjpark View Post
    Thank you for all the replies.

    What are we talking about with the 'crank seal'?? I have never seen this brought up in a TB replacement. This car has been in NC it's entire life and will remain here with me untill it becomes a parts car lol

    The PO had it serviced at the dealers here since new but there are no records because they didn't have it on the road for ~ 6-8 months prior to me buying it and possibly didn't have a need to take it in beforehand for the same amount of time so all the dealers purged it's service records.

    It was in great condition and seems to have been taken care of like the PO stated.
    Meh. I'd probably leave the crank seal as is. Like PZ states, the consensus is typically that it doesn't leak. Mine certainly wasn't after 135k. Although most of those were 'California' miles ;D


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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    As much fun as you had with the MFS, I would expect you can do the timing belt too

    I find the price reasonable for a shop. I have never seen a front crank seal leak on the V6, but at that mileage, it's a good idea to replace it while you are in there. You will need a new crank bolt as they are TTY.
    I've seen exactly one leak at just under that mileage. recall, the black 98 Audi waggie I used to have? that one was leaking at the front crank seal when I bought it.

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    In Seattle, I got a quote of $1,500-$1,700, so the $1,300 sounds like a bargain! I just replaced mine this last weekend. It was a good father/son bonding experience. Now my 16 year old is demanding/requesting payment for spending 11 hours of his life on the timing belt. I bought him a Butterfinger and called it good. I bought the timing belt kit from Blauparts Also rented the special tools for $50 from them. Made me much more confident in the job since a crankshaft locking tool and a camshaft locking tool are part of the special parts along with their 50 page step-by-step instructions! If you go with Blauparts, sign up for their e-mail newsletter first, get the 15% discount welcome e-mail, then order the timing belt kit.

    BTW - my son was suitably impressed with what we accomplished and he did have a good time.
    ylwagon, PZ, jjpark and 1 others like this.

  18. #16
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    I get that the crank seal typically doesn't leak till after 200k on up where I will be near 185k by the time I have or do the TB so I'm thinking it'll be wise just to do it then.

    I do have the long bar to hold it in place but there are no bolts with it (it came with the 01 I bought) I would order the kit from Blauparts and get the other tools that are needed.

    I am kinda confused at the 16 count and a few other things (Not sure I really understand it) that I have seen many speak of and especially Tomvw reference so much on.

    On a side note. With this being my 1st VW timing belt would it be wise to also do the valve covers and PCV system as well as the vacuum lines>
    I know what happens when those things start failing but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew and have a ton of stuff removed at the same time.

    Thank you

  19. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    As much fun as you had with the MFS, I would expect you can do the timing belt too
    I know right Now that I have done the MFS I actually would do it again because I now know what's involved and needed to do it. I couldn't find anywhere that had step by step instructions so I used what I read, saw and heard. Put it all together in my brain and dove into it. Figured it out and it seems to be working as it should
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  20. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjpark View Post
    I am kinda confused at the 16 count and a few other things (Not sure I really understand it) that I have seen many speak of and especially Tomvw reference so much on.
    There are pictures of this 16 roller count reference we speak of on this sight and in the Bentley. If you need the picture(s) cause you can't find them we'll post'em up.
    Just make sure that you're referencing the proper picture(s) for the V6.
    The 1.8(t) has the same 16 roller count, but the position of the 16th roller is different than on the V6's.
    Didn't wanna freak you out about this but I'm just making you aware that you need to know for sure what you're looking at.


    Quote Originally Posted by jjpark View Post
    On a side note. With this being my 1st VW timing belt would it be wise to also do the valve covers and PCV system as well as the vacuum lines>
    I know what happens when those things start failing but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew and have a ton of stuff removed at the same time.
    I'm going to say even though it's not absolutely necessary to remove valve covers when doing a timing belt, I personally would not change out a timing belt unless I remove the valve covers and make sure everything under those covers are in proper working order. You could have a worn out CCT and or a chain that jumped a tooth and if you never pulled the valve covers the timing belt change would be all for not. So what this boils down to is, Yeah, remove the valve covers and then replace the gaskets.

  21. #19
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    I am kinda confused at the 16 count and a few other things (Not sure I really understand it) that I have seen many speak of and especially Tomvw reference so much on.
    That "16" is for links in the camshaft timing chain (running between intake and exhaust camshafts) beneath each of your valve covers. Your original post doesn't mention anything about CCT noise (say your prayers daily, change oil every 5K religiously and you won't have to deal with these for a while).

    Watch out for "project creep", makes the ol' repair bill go astronomical.

    When I bought my first VW (a '77 Rabbit), over 35 yrs ago, an old German mechanic told me: "If ze eengine or transmission ees verking properly and not making any strange noises to varn you ov a problem, leave eet be!"

    ^That has stuck with me and ranks right up there with "Never kick a sleeping dog."
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  22. #20
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    Yes I have seen many of the pics on the roller count and thank you for making sure I'm looking at the V6 ones. As time gets closer to doing this project I will certainly do my research again to refresh my memory.

    I would probably take the VC'c off and check things there as suggested. The slight ticking on a cold start up is the only indication that something could be getting a bit worn out. The ticking doesn't happen every time and last's all of a second.

  23. #21
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    Update!!

    It turns out I will not have the time to do this job myself As much as I would like too I certainly don't want to rush it as I know I would. Soooo

    I need to know the best place to purchase the entire kit minus the tools that is reasonable in cost. I will also get the crank seal. Might as well since they are in there.

    The shop is going to charge me $355.10 to do the work

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    Just make sure that they do have, and will use, the crank and cam holding tools. No doubt many places will mark things with paint, then line the paint marks back up, or somewhat close, with the new belt on. If the timing was actually correct to start with, then it would probably run OK. But for the smoothest running engine, both banks have to be exactly timed to the crank, and that requires loosening the cam sprocket bolts and using the holding tools.

  25. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ylwagon View Post
    Just make sure that they do have, and will use, the crank and cam holding tools. No doubt many places will mark things with paint, then line the paint marks back up, or somewhat close, with the new belt on. If the timing was actually correct to start with, then it would probably run OK. But for the smoothest running engine, both banks have to be exactly timed to the crank, and that requires loosening the cam sprocket bolts and using the holding tools.
    Awesome! I will ask the shop if they have the tools

    Thank you

  26. #24
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    They assured me they have the tools. They are highly recommended by many people

  27. #25
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    Will this ESC kit be good? Somewhere for less? What else do I need???

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...8479-space-v2/

    Thank you

  28. #26
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    You are taking this to a shop to do, correct? I'd add a gallon of G13 coolant, perhaps a serp-belt, depending on the condition of your current one.

  29. #27
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    Yes. I just don't have the time and this place came highly recommended. I get a 1st responder discount. How about the crank seal since their in there?

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    That's debatable, depending on if there is any evidence of leaking. If dry, I'd suggest leaving it alone. My 1996 A4 2.8 was 20-years old and at 275,000 miles when I sold it, no leaks at the crank seal.
    jjpark likes this.

  31. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ylwagon View Post
    That's debatable, depending on if there is any evidence of leaking. If dry, I'd suggest leaving it alone. My 1996 A4 2.8 was 20-years old and at 275,000 miles when I sold it, no leaks at the crank seal.
    Agreed, If it's dry around the crankshaft I'd leave it alone. Unless your in a climate that gets stupid cold, But seeing as your in NC I wouldn't sweat it.
    jjpark likes this.

  32. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjpark View Post
    Will this ESC kit be good? Somewhere for less? What else do I need???

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...8479-space-v2/

    Thank you
    Make sure that water pump has the metal impeller on it. It looks like it in the picture, but just be sure.
    jjpark likes this.

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