I started a thread about my misadventures with a broken cam chain tensioner on the passenger side. The result of the replacement of the CCT was that the car is misfiring on all passenger bank cylinders only. Drivers side is fine even though I changed the pads on that side (meaning I took the intake cam out and replaced it. It seems that the ultimate result of that was that I have some number of bent valves on the intake side of the passenger side bank. I have been dithering over the past week about whether I should try to fix it or just junk the car/donate it. I have a plan to fix it and I wanted to get people's opinion on what I might be missing from from the plan.
To start, A rebuilt head is out of the question. They cost anywhere from 500 – 1200 dollars as far as I can tell and that is without various gaskets and other parts that might be needed. If this car is to be fixed I'll need to do it myself. And it will need to be done relatively cheaply.
So the plan. I am assuming that the head is not warped or cracked. There is no reason to think it is as I did not suffer any overheating or broken chain or that type of catastrophic failure that would likely lead to that kind of damage. I tried to find used heads but they would only guarantee that the head was not warped and not cracked. There's no point buying a used head for $400 only to have to do the valves anyway.
The plan.
1) Take the front off car (in other words put it in the service position) but having removed the front bumper radiator etc.
2) Put car in TDC.
3) Remove Valve cover and verify timing is correct.
4) Rotate crank 30 degrees off tdc.
5) Mark passenger side bank's Timing chain's 16 rollers. They will not be exactly over the cam journal markings at this point, but I'll need to mark everything's place exactly.
6) Fasten the timing belt to the various pulleys not involved in the head to be removed and mark them. I was thinking of using the little fuel line clamps I have to physically attach the belt to the pulleys in the right places so that they don't move. I do not have a timing belt bar and don't know where I can get one.
7) Assuming I can adequately make the timing belt secure to the right places on the pulleys and on the other bank's cam, I could then unbolt the pulley from the passenger side exhaust cam. I understand that the pulley is not keyed and it should just come off once unbolted. It too, will need to be carefully marked for reassembly.
8) Remove everything connecting the head to the rest of the engine marking and photographing everything carefully for reassembly.
9) Remove the head bolts
10) remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold
11) remove the head
12) Mark each cam journal and lifter for reassembly
13) Photograph marked assembly for reassembly
14) One by one remove the each intake valve with a spring compressor
15) Replace Valve guides and valve stem seals
16) Manually lap the new valves using lapping compound and suction cup tool
17) Clean all lapping compound carefully to make sure it is removed.
18) Replace valve springs and keepers
19) move on to the next one.
20) When done do exhaust valves the same way
21) remove and smooth any sharp edges (from valves hitting)on the piston tops but leave in place otherwise.
22) Replace cams same way as they came out
23) Reassemble engine.
Parts needed:
(9) intake valves at $5.36 ea Rock Auto
(6) exhaust valves at 5.36 ea Rock Auto
Head Bolts set 50.95 Rock Auto
Gasket Kit includes Head, 2 exhaust, VCG and CCT gaskets 96.89 Rock Auto
Valve Stem Seals .95 ea/ 15.00 Rock Auto
Valve Guides 3.31 ea./49.65 Rock Auto
Valve Lapping Tool, Lapping Compound and Engine Assy Lube 20.35 Amazon.
Head Bolt Removal tool 9.56 Amazon
Total for job $325.80 plus shipping.
Tools Needed:
Spring Compressor
Valve Guide Remover
Head Bolt removal tool
Lapping Tool
Advice Needed:
a) Does this plan sound right?
b) What am I missing?
c) What chances of success?
d) Do I need to get the VW timing belt tool and camshaft pin (adds 50.00 plus shipping)
e) Where can I get a spring compressor and valve guide remover that will work with this head? What do I ask for at the Autozone rental counter?
To start, A rebuilt head is out of the question. They cost anywhere from 500 – 1200 dollars as far as I can tell and that is without various gaskets and other parts that might be needed. If this car is to be fixed I'll need to do it myself. And it will need to be done relatively cheaply.
So the plan. I am assuming that the head is not warped or cracked. There is no reason to think it is as I did not suffer any overheating or broken chain or that type of catastrophic failure that would likely lead to that kind of damage. I tried to find used heads but they would only guarantee that the head was not warped and not cracked. There's no point buying a used head for $400 only to have to do the valves anyway.
The plan.
1) Take the front off car (in other words put it in the service position) but having removed the front bumper radiator etc.
2) Put car in TDC.
3) Remove Valve cover and verify timing is correct.
4) Rotate crank 30 degrees off tdc.
5) Mark passenger side bank's Timing chain's 16 rollers. They will not be exactly over the cam journal markings at this point, but I'll need to mark everything's place exactly.
6) Fasten the timing belt to the various pulleys not involved in the head to be removed and mark them. I was thinking of using the little fuel line clamps I have to physically attach the belt to the pulleys in the right places so that they don't move. I do not have a timing belt bar and don't know where I can get one.
7) Assuming I can adequately make the timing belt secure to the right places on the pulleys and on the other bank's cam, I could then unbolt the pulley from the passenger side exhaust cam. I understand that the pulley is not keyed and it should just come off once unbolted. It too, will need to be carefully marked for reassembly.
8) Remove everything connecting the head to the rest of the engine marking and photographing everything carefully for reassembly.
9) Remove the head bolts
10) remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold
11) remove the head
12) Mark each cam journal and lifter for reassembly
13) Photograph marked assembly for reassembly
14) One by one remove the each intake valve with a spring compressor
15) Replace Valve guides and valve stem seals
16) Manually lap the new valves using lapping compound and suction cup tool
17) Clean all lapping compound carefully to make sure it is removed.
18) Replace valve springs and keepers
19) move on to the next one.
20) When done do exhaust valves the same way
21) remove and smooth any sharp edges (from valves hitting)on the piston tops but leave in place otherwise.
22) Replace cams same way as they came out
23) Reassemble engine.
Parts needed:
(9) intake valves at $5.36 ea Rock Auto
(6) exhaust valves at 5.36 ea Rock Auto
Head Bolts set 50.95 Rock Auto
Gasket Kit includes Head, 2 exhaust, VCG and CCT gaskets 96.89 Rock Auto
Valve Stem Seals .95 ea/ 15.00 Rock Auto
Valve Guides 3.31 ea./49.65 Rock Auto
Valve Lapping Tool, Lapping Compound and Engine Assy Lube 20.35 Amazon.
Head Bolt Removal tool 9.56 Amazon
Total for job $325.80 plus shipping.
Tools Needed:
Spring Compressor
Valve Guide Remover
Head Bolt removal tool
Lapping Tool
Advice Needed:
a) Does this plan sound right?
b) What am I missing?
c) What chances of success?
d) Do I need to get the VW timing belt tool and camshaft pin (adds 50.00 plus shipping)
e) Where can I get a spring compressor and valve guide remover that will work with this head? What do I ask for at the Autozone rental counter?