KSEADUBs 2000 Passat GLX 4Mo 'build'/repair/gripe thread - Page 10

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Thread: KSEADUBs 2000 Passat GLX 4Mo 'build'/repair/gripe thread

  1. #271
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    Do you have any words of wisdom for how to get the U.S. passenger side intake cam out of the head? A hard power steering pump hose is in the way and with it being late I stopped there for the moment. Thanks in advance. BTW lovely work you have done. Nicely done!

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  3. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmassengill View Post
    Do you have any words of wisdom for how to get the U.S. passenger side intake cam out of the head? A hard power steering pump hose is in the way and with it being late I stopped there for the moment. Thanks in advance. BTW lovely work you have done. Nicely done!
    Hmm... The PS line is preventing you from removing the intake camshaft? I seem to remember it blocking the removal of the valve cover, but not that it was in the way of the cam. Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?

  4. #273
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    Your pictures in post 267 are super helpful in preparing me for my upcoming tie-rod replacement. I do have some questions about the inner tie-rod tool and the Oetiker tool. Could you share specifics on those tools? I was going to try to rent a inner tie-rod from my local auto parts stores, if they have one that fits. Do you happen to remember the inner tie-rod nut size? Was it relatively easy to get to the clamp with the Oetiker pliers? I did order a Oetiker tool here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

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  6. #274
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    Hey Jmassengill.

    I know exactly what you are talking about because I had the same problem. There is a holddown bolt behind the engine holding that PS line down. Follow the hard line (after the rubber part meets it) down behind the engine and you will see it back there. I don't recall the exact size but I think it is a 13 mm 1/2" bolt. I used a 24" ratchet extender to remove that bolt, and once that is high enough (the clearance is not going to be huge but it will be enough) you can swing the cam shaft out. Be careful not to drop that bolt.
    jmassengill likes this.

  7. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by muttony View Post
    Hey Jmassengill.

    I know exactly what you are talking about because I had the same problem. There is a holddown bolt behind the engine holding that PS line down. Follow the hard line (after the rubber part meets it) down behind the engine and you will see it back there. I don't recall the exact size but I think it is a 13 mm 1/2" bolt. I used a 24" ratchet extender to remove that bolt, and once that is high enough (the clearance is not going to be huge but it will be enough) you can swing the cam shaft out. Be careful not to drop that bolt.
    Indeed. Work in that area is generally much easier with that bolt loosened from the rear coolant pipe. I would loosen the nut all the way to the top of the threads, while still leaving it attached to the coolant pipe so it wouldn't get lost in the transmission tunnel. There were times when the nut needed to be removed completely, but they were few and far between.

  8. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Your pictures in post 267 are super helpful in preparing me for my upcoming tie-rod replacement. I do have some questions about the inner tie-rod tool and the Oetiker tool. Could you share specifics on those tools? I was going to try to rent a inner tie-rod from my local auto parts stores, if they have one that fits. Do you happen to remember the inner tie-rod nut size? Was it relatively easy to get to the clamp with the Oetiker pliers? I did order a Oetiker tool here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .
    Awesome! Glad they helped.

    Those pliers look great, although i think they are pricier than the pair i ended up with. I'll post links to what i bought when i get home.

    EDIT:

    OK, here are the pliers I ended up with

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Again, the ones you linked look great, although a little more expensive. The important point is that the pair you end up with has side crimp functionality, IE - the pliers don't have to be perpendicular to the object you are attempting to clamp.

    For the clamps themselves, I bought two items.
    1. A variety pack with smaller clamps:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    2. And a kit which allows you to make any sized Oetiker clamp:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Number 2 aint cheap, but I wasn't able to find any other large options. You'll need big ones for the insides of the boots themselves. Nothing in the kit (number 1) is large enough. You should definitely scour the internet to see if you can find it cheaper though. Part of me thinks that I just didn't look hard enough.

    I bought that tie rod socket quite a few years ago, and I had forgot where. Apparently it was through amazon, so here you go:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I don't have a measurement of the OD of the inner tie rod, but this socket will do ya. The Bentley might have specs for the wrench it calls out to use, but I can't remember off the top of my head. The amazon page shows the specs for the tool, so it might also provide some help in finding something that will work. The socket is nice, as it's adjustable via the set screw, so in a way its universal.


    Access was fairly easy once the tie rod access plate is removed. Its the little plastic plate that covers up most of the larger hole that the tie rod passes through. If your wheel wells are dirty, it might be tough to see that you can remove it, but I assure you that you can. I think its attached with just some plastic friction pins. Take the panel out and you should have pretty good access. Are you removing the strut as well? Or just doing the tie rods?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by KSEADUB; 02-16-2017 at 06:22 PM.
    chefro and jmassengill like this.

  9. #277
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    I found out why I couldn't see the nut...too much crud and not enough light! After I found the good flashlight and the brake clean I handled the PS hose with ease. I've put all parts in simple green and I should be ready to go back with new parts (chain/tensioner) tonight or tomorrow...Thanks for the words of wisdom muttony!
    KSEADUB likes this.

  10. #278
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    Awesome! Glad they helped.

    Those pliers look great, although i think they are pricier than the pair i ended up with. I'll post links to what i bought when i get home.

    EDIT:

    OK, here are the pliers I ended up with

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Again, the ones you linked look great, although a little more expensive. The important point is that the pair you end up with has side crimp functionality, IE - the pliers don't have to be perpendicular to the object you are attempting to clamp.
    Yep, I made sure my pliers had the side crimpability. Yours look pretty nice, I bet the compound action helps.

    I bought that tie rod socket quite a few years ago, and I had forgot where. Apparently it was through amazon, so here you go:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I don't have a measurement of the OD of the inner tie rod, but this socket will do ya. The Bentley might have specs for the wrench it calls out to use, but I can't remember off the top of my head. The amazon page shows the specs for the tool, so it might also provide some help in finding something that will work. The socket is nice, as it's adjustable via the set screw, so in a way its universal.
    I guess the end looks like this? I wasn't eexactly sure how it worked until I saw this photo.

    I hope I can find one to rent locally, the one at Advance auto looks promising. I'd rather not have to buy another tool, I've already spent enough on this car the last few months.

    Access was fairly easy once the tie rod access plate is removed. Its the little plastic plate that covers up most of the larger hole that the tie rod passes through. If your wheel wells are dirty, it might be tough to see that you can remove it, but I assure you that you can. I think its attached with just some plastic friction pins. Take the panel out and you should have pretty good access. Are you removing the strut as well? Or just doing the tie rods?
    I got that part, I've had that plate off before when I replaced the rack a couple years ago. I hope to be able to leave the struts in, but we'll see how it goes.
    Last edited by woodardhsd; 02-17-2017 at 09:39 PM.

  11. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Yep, I made sure my pliers had the side crimpability. Yours look pretty nice, I bet the compound action helps.


    I guess the end looks like this? I wasn't eexactly sure how it worked until I saw this photo.

    I hope I can find one to rent locally, the one at Advance auto looks promising. I'd rather not have to buy another tool, I've already spent enough on this car the last few months.


    I got that part, I've had that plate off before when I replaced the rack a couple years ago. I hope to be able to leave the struts in, but we'll see how it goes.
    The photo you posted isn't showing up in Tapatalk, but yeah the end just looks like a big nut.

    It will be a little tighter with the strut in, but you should be able to do it. Good luck!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #280
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    Not sure what happened with the picture in the previous post, but I updated it.

  13. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Not sure what happened with the picture in the previous post, but I updated it.
    Yep! Thats exactly it. It has the set screw you can tighten down on any size tierod end.

    We're you able to find one?


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  14. #282
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    I haven't looked yet. I was going to wait until my parts get here on Wednesday so I can bring them to the store with me.

    I was going to try to find this kit at Advance Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance based on this thread here: DIY: B5 Control Arms and Tie Rod End Assemblies, Part 2: TRE Assembly Replacement - AudiForums.com

  15. #283
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    KSEADUBs 2000 Passat GLX 4Mo 'build'/repair/gripe thread

    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    I haven't looked yet. I was going to wait until my parts get here on Wednesday so I can bring them to the store with me.

    I was going to try to find this kit at Advance

    Nice. That ought to do the trick.

    You should be able to get the tie rod ends out of the spindle without a puller (as illustrated in that linked DIY). Remove all the bolts as shown, then get a nice framing hammer in there and whack on the end of the spindle surrounding the tie rod. After a few good whacks (YMMV) it should fall right out. Same trick can be employed on the lower control arms as well.
    Last edited by KSEADUB; 02-20-2017 at 10:51 PM.

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