After reading this excellent method from the info base ...
PINCH BOLT REMOVAL made easy - pics
... here is a proposed method that may not require cutting the bolt with a dremel:
UPDATE: AFTER READING EVERY THREAD ON THIS SUBJECT, I REALISED THAT THE METHOD I SUGGESTED BELOW IS NOT EXACTLY "NEW". IT SEEMS THAT PEOPLE ON THIS SITE HAVE ALREADY TRIED EVERYTHING ! IN PRACTICE, THE PROPOSED METHOD BELOW DID NOT WORK FOR ME. THE METHODS DESCRIBED BY JAY AND PZ WERE THE TECHNIQUES THAT ULTIMATELY WORKED. IF YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS, DO NOT USE HEAT, AS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE HOUSING SLEEVE HOT ENOUGH WITHOUT COOKING THE RUBBER BOOTS (EVEN WHEN WETTING THEM DOWN TO TRY TO KEEP THEM COOL). WHAT ULTIMATELY WORKED IS A HEAVY DUTY AIR HAMMER (AVAILABLE AT "HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS" FOR $15) AND KEEP APPLYING PENETRATING OIL. THERE IS ALSO A NEW TECHNIQUE I DISCOVERED THAT HELPED A GREAT DEAL. FOR THE BOTTOM LINE ON WHAT WORKS (WITHOUT USING HEAT) JUST READ THE POST 9 POSTS DOWN AND THE POST 16 POSTS DOWN. THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR ALL OF THE GREAT TIPS. WOULD NOT BEEN ABLE TO SUCCEED WITHOUT YOUR VALUABLE LESSONS ! )
1) As always, pre-treat with penetrating oil (e.g., "parts blaster" or similar product). Spray at both ends of the bolt, and also spray in the grooves of the housing so that it can penetrate along the entire length of the bolt.
2) As described in the info base write-up, place some washers in the grooves of the housing (but in both grooves), to prevent the housing from clamping down on the bolt when you are trying to remove it. The washers should fit snugly, but don't force the grooves open any further than they already are.
3) Loosen the nut and unscrew it until it is near the end of the bolt, but do not remove it.
4) Select a socket that fits the head of the bolt.
5) Place the socket on the head of the bolt. (just the socket - nothing else)
6) Place a c-clamp around the socket (at one end of the clamp) and around the opposite end of the bolt (at the other end of the clamp).
7) Tighten the c-clamp unil it fits snugly, but do not apply brute force yet.
8) Now continue to unthread the nut until its snug against the end of the c-clamp. This is to distribute the force of the c-clamp over the end of the bolt and also the nut as well.
9) Being careful that the c-clamp remains in alignment with the bolt and does not slip, now proceed to apply brute force in tightening the c-clamp to force the bolt to move.
10) Occassionally pause to spray more PB as the bolt moves.
11) You will have to switch to a deep socket as the bolt comes out, and to use a punch (rod) to continue to push the bolt through.
12) Even if you just get the bolt to move a 1/4" or so with this method, you can now get a clean shot at cutting the bolt head off and then proceeding with the procedure in the info base. This will also loosen the bolt and allow for better exposure to the PB.
I tried this method the other day and it did not work. But I did not insert the washers as was recommended in the info base write-up. I believe this is why this method originally failed, and I plan on trying it again some day, but with the washers next time.
If anyone tries this method, please let everyone know how it worked out for you.
NOTE: AS MENTIONED IN THE "UPDATE" WHEN I ACTUALLY TRIED THIS METHOD IT DID NOT WORK. I USED A HUGE 18" INDUSTRIAL C-CLAMP AND IT ONLY ENDED UP DEFORMING THE BOLT. YOU NEED THE PENETRATING OIL AND THE INCESSANT VIBRATION PROVIDED BY THE AIR GUN IN ORDER TO BREAK DOWN THE RUST, AND EVENTUALLY THE BOLT WILL BEGIN TO FREE ITSELF. BRUTE FORCE ALONE WILL NOT DO IT. MORE DETAILS PROVIDED 9 POSTS DOWN.