Car missfires and completly shuts off
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  1. #1
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    Car missfires and completly shuts off

    So yesterday for the first time, my car started to misfire/studder and my car turned off completly while driving.... Check engine turned on and got the vag com codes:
    VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
    Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 557 P
    Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
    Software Coding: 06201
    Work Shop Code: WSC 06335
    3 Faults Found:
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
    P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    17967 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P1559 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
    17973 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P1565 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

    When I opened the hood evrything looked fine but all of a sudden i heard my throttle body adjusting itself, after finishing adjusting i just started the car and the car felt normal. I just did my plugs (3 wks. ago), have a ko4 w/ pc-16 giac file....any help will be appreciate it, thank you!

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  3. #2
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    You might want to try the throttle body adaptation via vag-com or other methods I don't know about....Should be a how to in information base under throttle body cleaning or adaptation...if you google the codes you will get alot of info for these codes

  4. #3
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    I would put a meter on the battery before anything else. Check with motor running too...should read at least 13.5 volts...if not check close to alternator. If you're critically low on voltage (code), no other code is dependable...reading codes and operation of idle control depends on proper voltage.

  5. #4
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    Today I decided to unplug the battery, checked the voltage which was 12.48, then i proceeded to clean the connector at the throttle body, as well as the Mass Airflow sensor, and the ecu connectors. Since i have a 99 AEB, i adapted the throttle body by connecting the battery, leaving the key in the on position but the motor off and the throttle body motor will sound briefly for a min or 2, then you would hear a click and the car started.Checked the volts, @ battery, with the motor running and it read it 14.5. A couple of hours later my car completely died (barely made it home) and now the motor doesnt run. Any ideas?

  6. #5
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    The last code the vag com registered are:
    VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

    Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 557 P
    Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
    Software Coding: 06201
    Work Shop Code: WSC 06335
    2 Faults Found:
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
    P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    17973 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P1565 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Passat991.8T View Post
    The last code the vag com registered are:
    VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

    Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 557 P
    Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
    Software Coding: 06201
    Work Shop Code: WSC 06335
    2 Faults Found:
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
    P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    17973 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P1565 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
    May not help, but after checking those codes, I found that the P1602 code does not deal with system voltage..it is a code for voltage coming FROM the ECM to components it controls...don't know which terminal to check though.

    The other code points to the MAF, but depends on proper voltage supplied by the ECM...so back to the ECM voltage output.

    Don't know if this could happen if voltage is not getting to the ECM or an internal or connection problem with ECM, inhibiting it's ability to send out voltage to components.

    That's all I got.

  8. #7
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    Ok I disconnected my fuel pump connector and noticed that im getting no voltage to the fuel pump. I know the fuel pump is good because I just replaced it 3 months ago, so im thinking the fuel pump relay is done, i hope cause i dont want it to be my ECM or something pricey


    Actually it reads a steady .67 volts, it suppose to be at least 12 right?

  9. #8
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    Ok checked the same connector while cranking the engine and it read 10.65 volts, but doesnt it supposed to be 12 volts? Dont know what else could be wrong with it

  10. #9
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    Dont know if I should order the relay or not, its 45 dollars so dont want to make an uncessary expense, how cant i twst if the relay is still good?

  11. #10
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    Well today being Saturday i decided to tackle the problem with my car. I had the battery checked and its still good. Fuel pump is priming and getting current, i pulled out the spark plugs and they were drenched with gasoline so I know im getting gas in the combustion chamber . I decided to take out a coil and grounded and no spark So since my car is a 99 its a equipped with an ICM checked that with my ohm reader and all everything is working properly. Also im not getting a check engine light what so ever, so i dont know what it could be Any ideas, anything i should check for?

  12. #11
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    What trips me out is that last week the car was running flawlessly....now that car only cranks but does not start

  13. #12
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    Wow - can't believe it. I am having them same problem. Moved the car 30' the other day and then it would not start the next morning. Same thing for the fuel pump, only .25 volts cranking. Also, only around 10V at the fuel pump fuse. Checked the fuses and changed the relay-nothing. Found information on "car wash syndrome" which sounded exactly like my problem. Took out the plugs and they were all wet. Cleaned & dryed and still nothing. Tried a plug outside the engine and no spark on all wires. Battery was getting low from all the cranking and found that it would not charge 100% installed in the car but it does outside the car. Tried new battery-no fire. Could it be a short somewhere allowing the engine to crank but not get spark or charge?

    I am at a loss. It sounds like any insight out there might help us both. 2004 V6 4motion.

  14. #13
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    tataylor: if your only getting .25 volts while cranking more likely its your relay that has taken a dump.

    Update on my nightmare: Well I bypassed the alarm on my car and kill switch and still acts the same. Im starting to think its the ECU cause I sometimes have trouble connecting with the ECU through the VagCom. Also the check engine light flickers on and off, as well as my tachometer will act funny (it will do a full needle sweep) and I hear alot of relay clicking on and off. Also as the check engine light flickers (not the flicker where its flashing a code) I hear the throttle body trying to adjust itself
    Last edited by Passat991.8T; 05-22-2011 at 07:24 PM.

  15. #14
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    If a borrow an ecu from a friend who does not have GIAC pc16 program, he has an APR 91, would my car atleast start with the bigger injectors? Or would I have to change the injectors to the stock ones for it to start properly?

  16. #15
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    usually a flickering CEL is a misfire or major engine problem...

  17. #16
    PZ
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    It's possible the ECU has a bad solder joint on the chip. I would also check the battery cables at the starter and at the grounds.

  18. #17
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    Its not the same kind of flashing from a code, there is no rhythm or consistency. It just flickers, also you can hear some relays click sometimes. These symptoms mentioned, only happen once in a while not all the time. Thinking the clicking relay was the fuel pump relay I checked it and its working as it should.

    Now on to this question: my friend is going to lend me his ecu, w/o changing my injectors or adjusting the fpr, would my car start or at least idle? I just want to verify whether my ecu is bad

  19. #18
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    it will start but run rough with the other ECU, but try this, since you said the plugs were drenched in fuel pull them, clean them off, pull the fuel injector electrical plugs and crank the motor a couple times to clear any residual fuel from the pistons. install the cleaned and dried plugs, reconnect the injectors, and instal the coil packs. hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it and see if it starts.

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    It's possible the ECU has a bad solder joint on the chip.
    Had this problem, very frustrating. Failure would coincide with heat, car warming up and small bumps on the road. Very dangerous if on an interstate, two lane construction zone with no shoulder, at night.

  21. #20
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    Today my friend stopped by and we swapped out ECU's, unfortunately i coudnt get my car started due to the fact that my car has bigger injectors. So I then proceeded to install my ECU in this car and the same symptoms would appear in his car as it did in mine, i.e. tachometer moving without the car on and the check engine light was flickering as well as you would hear relays click on and off.
    So to say the least my ecu just took a crap! Since i bought the ecu through a member in audizine would GIAC help me out by not charging me the full $400? What options do I have as far for an ECU? Basically i dont want pay for stock ecu and fork out another 400 for the program, any ideas??

  22. #21
    PZ
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    They could probably repair the contacts on the chip.

  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Passat991.8T View Post
    Today my friend stopped by and we swapped out ECU's, unfortunately i coudnt get my car started due to the fact that my car has bigger injectors. So I then proceeded to install my ECU in this car and the same symptoms would appear in his car as it did in mine, i.e. tachometer moving without the car on and the check engine light was flickering as well as you would hear relays click on and off.
    So to say the least my ecu just took a crap! Since i bought the ecu through a member in audizine would GIAC help me out by not charging me the full $400? What options do I have as far for an ECU? Basically i dont want pay for stock ecu and fork out another 400 for the program, any ideas??
    When I had the problem, also GIAC software, I bought a esed ecu and had them flash the program onto that ecu. $100. They want the old ecu and encryption board back and restored that to stock. You can try to have them remove the encryption board from your existing ecu, replace with stock prom and flash it, but they don't really do ecu repairs as such. If for some reason you still had the problem, you'd have more expense and down time.

    car-part.com has a load of ecu's usually

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