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Winter Driving, If you spend long time warm up?

9K views 58 replies 37 participants last post by  fritznh 
#1 ·
Hi, guys

I heard some ideas that passat doesn't need warm up even in the winter time.

I found that information in VW instruction as well. It confused me.

I used to start remote start at least warm my car 15-20 minutes because if I don't do that, my automatic transmission very hard to shift gear.

ps: I am in Canada, winter temper usually around -20 to-30.

Do you guys have any idea? or suggestion?

whatttt I can do?!:banghead:

Thanks:salute:
 
#2 ·
When I start my car it idles at 1200 rpm for about 2-3 minutes depending on temperature and then drops to 800 rpm. I always let it warm up for that amount of time at a minimum. I'm not sure if there is any truth to the literature or not, this is just my personal preference.
 
#6 ·
It'd be nice if these Tiptronic transmissions had an easy way to check the fluid level. :thumbdown
Couldn’t agree with you more on this. But wait until you find out newer German cars don’t even have a dipstick to measure engine oil lever!

On the other hand, I found automatic transmission dipstick on the new Japanese made Mazda 2. I think Japanese do know what is right and what is wrong on autos.

I do think 15 to 20-minute warm-up is excessive. Even at -20F, I would warm up for several minutes and drive. Just make sure drive gently for the first several minutes until the coolant temperature gauge is up to the normal position (if it ever gets up to 190F).
 
#8 ·
I have heard, but cannot confirm, that the transmission is designed to hold gear longer when cold, specifically to warm it up - that's part of the reason it has an internal temperature probe. Certainly both of mine seem to shift late when it's cold.

With the instructions from VW not to warm the car in mind, I let mine idle less than a minute before starting off, mostly to let the oil pressure stabilize. I've had no problems with this. BTW, when I've tried letting it idle for 5-10 minutes to warm the car for passengers, it's very slow to come up to temp. Whereas if I'm driving, the temp gauge is at normal and I have heat within five minutes and two miles.
 
#12 ·
I have found that until the needle starts moving, the torque converter does not lock up at all. It's like it wants to slip to help heat up the fluid. Has done it since I bought it almost 95K miles ago. But only when it's near freezing and below.
 
#11 · (Edited)
You can't believe everything you read!

Sometimes, you have to use some common sense! When the cars cold, drive it lightly for the first 10mins, until it warms up.

I use 100% Full Synthetic Engine Oil and 100% Synthetic Transaxle oil, its more fluid and warms up faster than conventional oil. When it gets super cold, i let the car warm up for 5 mins, i guess theres no harm if you go a few mins longer..... besides being a waste of fuel.

With the Synthetic Oil, i have noticed the car; warms up faster, idles smoother, accelerates smoother and supposedly increases fuel enconomy. With the transaxle, it definitely warms up faster and shifting is smoother and with less effort.

FYI, check out Youtube's comparisons between; Conventional Oil and 100% Full Synthetic Oils (especially during cold temps).

I use Canadian Tires Motormaster Synthetic Oils since its produced by Shell Canada and i buy a few jugs when its on sale. Its a bargain!
 
#13 ·
Why not add to this as well...... I'd never idle a car for that long. In my youth, I'd let the car idle for near ten minutes so it would be nice and warm when I drove off. The downside of wasting fuel outweighs the benefit of a warm car. The car will heat up more quickly if driven (gently until at normal operating temp) than by idling. VW manual also states to only idle for a short period. For me, that means until the car starts to idle down (notice drop in RPMs or with boost gauge), then drive off gently for a couple miles.
 
#24 ·
When my second gear synchro was going bad, I had the same problem. The colder it was the worse it was. After the trans warmed up a bit, I could shift into second gear fine. I tried changing to another gear oil (might have been Amsoil, but I forget) and the problem was no better. I changed gear oil again to new OEM and still had the problem. I ran across a deal on a used trans and that solved the problem.
 
#16 ·
sounds like you have a stick. What gear oil are you using? That has nothing to do with the engine.
 
#18 ·
change it. all your problems with cold weather related shifting should go away. look around. some are good to use for winter and some not.
 
#25 ·
In extreme cold it will not matter what is in the case, my car has new fluid in it last winter from the dealer and it still shifted the same. If I remember right the stock fluid is just 75-90 syn gear lube. All manuals will shift hard when its -20. My Dodge pickup with is the same way, semi trucks are the same, its just a cold weather thing. Any fluid that has a lighter cold weather viscosity will make it better, but I have never seen one lower the 75W

try double clutching and matching rev(shift clutchless if you know how) it helps alot. I have no issues with mine
 
#23 ·
Lol yea catless exhaust and even outside is like a death sentence! Man I had the car running last night with the trunk open for like 10 seconds and it was a bad idea! Hah!

As for the cold starting, I always let it idle for a bit to let it at least warm the oil up a bit...if you don't the oil is like sludge in seriously cold temperatures...plus you use less gas when the engine is warm.

People that start up their car and then right away put it in drive or reverse just drives me insane...not good for the car!
 
#22 ·
hit the button, wait for the fob to say the truck is at least 55 degrees in it and then im out and off to work :lol:

gotta love a 2 way remote start that displays the interior temp for ya :whistle:
 
#26 ·
In extreme cold, my original trans never did this until the second gear synchro went bad at around 140,000 miles. The replacement trans (unknown mileage) doesn't do this. Yes, manual transmissions are stiffer when it's extremely cold, but when mine was acting up bad, you couldn't get it into second. Double clutching and rev-matching helped, but when it goes bad, there is no mistaking it. Your average driver (someone like my Mom) wouldn't be able to drive the car safely.

(Mom, if you read this, it is not an insult. :angel:)
 
#38 ·
If I'm wimpy and have lots of time, I'll start the car and warm it up while I finish getting ready for work. If I'm running late, I'll warm it up for a count of 20 seconds or so, even on -20C mornings like this morning, and then start driving...slowly. For the first minute I'll stay at slower speeds in lower gears so the turbo has time to wake up. On mornings this cold everything is sluggish, but I shift and do everything slow, and things heat up fast.
 
#40 ·
i know this has been answered over and over but i'll chime in.
i have a 2002 1.8t 5spd fwd and when i cold start it i let the throttle readapt to 800rpm before i leave. i've done this since i bought the car.

can't speak for the woman who owned the car before me but the first oil change for me was done with TOTAL Quartz Energy 9000 5W40 Synthetic motor oil.

once the rpms drop from 1200 to 800 (1-3minutes), i leave and drive lightly and shift slowly until the transmission warms up. i haven't changed the gear oil yet though.

i live in Massachusetts and today it was 5degrees in the morning and high 12degrees (Fahrenheit)
 
#52 ·
I started doing this when I bought the car; it just seemed like the logical thing to do. However, a couple weeks later I found the owners manual and read that it is fine to start driving right away. I interpreted that as I should not wait the 1-3 minutes for the rpm's to drop.

After reading this thread, I'm going back to the 1 minute wait upon start up.

And if people are considering a block heater, I would suggest an oil pan blanket and an interior car heater. Had those in the Yukon and it was beauty! Picture getting into a warm car every day at -40!
 
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