slave & master cylinder
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  1. #1
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    slave & master cylinder

    Ok so I think I need to replace either my slave or master cylinder on my 2000 passat. The clutch is kinda sticky and doesn't come back right away after depressing it. Gears work fine.

    Is there an easy way to know which one to replace? Also I've been able to locate the slave cylinder, but where is the master cylinder? With each one costing around $100 I'd rather not replace both if I don't have to.... input on that from anyone?

    I'm a bit of a newb but I think I can get this done with a bit of effort and some sage advice..

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
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    look for your brake fluid reservoir & the metal part on the bottom with the metal lines coming out of it is the master cyl -look up a picture of the master cyl & ull see

    - also search on here about bleeding your slave cyl. I had a similar problem when my clutch was acting up, bleed the slave cyl & its good for now. Youll need two people to do this.

    GL!

  4. #3
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    so I bled the slave cylinder and that fixed the original problem. Now I'm thinking my clutch is going though. The clutch isn't perfect when pushing it down but after bleeding it seems to work. The clutch is now slipping in 3rd and 4th once it hits about 3k rpms.

    I'm also getting that smell, the clutch burning smell.

    Does all this seem to suggest I need to replace my clutch cylinders & the clutch!?

    Thanks for your reply btw

  5. #4
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    I'm hoping someone has a remedy for this issue because I think I have the same problem. I had the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and throw-out bearing replaced about 1000 miles ago (201k on the original), and after about 50 miles it became difficult to engage smoothly. Where you would expect a smooth gradual engagement, the clutch would bite about 80% through the pedal travel. Believing it was a hydraulic issue, and knowing that the fluid was probably original, I bled the brakes and slave cylinder. Now the engagement is terrible. The 80% bite is still there, and now the pedal travel isn't smooth. The action on the pedal sort of scrapes (maybe inside the master cylinder?) and its hard to engage gradually. There is also a sort of squeaky noise when engaging the clutch.

    If its definitely the master cylinder, I'll probably replace it and do another bleed, but I want to pin down the culprit before spending money on it.

  6. #5
    In reverse, but chained to a tree.
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    b5tevo, if i recal, the manual pressure plates are self adjusting. i know the w8 has that style. could be a problem there if they weren't set appropriately when installed.

  7. #6
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    That could explain the clutch grabbing at 80%, but how about the binding in the clutch pedal travel? Its not smooth like the accelerator- its got some resistance in it.

  8. #7
    In reverse, but chained to a tree.
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    Quote Originally Posted by B5tevo View Post
    That could explain the clutch grabbing at 80%, but how about the binding in the clutch pedal travel? Its not smooth like the accelerator- its got some resistance in it.
    you do realize you're stepping on a big spring, right?

    or is it binding like it has trouble coming back up too?

  9. #8
    2nd Gear
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    Quote Originally Posted by sipes216 View Post
    b5tevo, if i recal, the manual pressure plates are self adjusting. i know the w8 has that style. could be a problem there if they weren't set appropriately when installed.
    On the B5 the Luk self adjusting presure plate is only used on the S4 and RS4, not used on the 2.8 or the 1.8t.

    Quote Originally Posted by B5tevo View Post
    That could explain the clutch grabbing at 80%, but how about the binding in the clutch pedal travel? Its not smooth like the accelerator- its got some resistance in it.

    If the pedal is soft up top and then you start feeling resistance there is some air in the line. You want to bleed the system with a power bleeder and you might want to check for metal clutch line that plugs into the master cylinder at the fire wall next to the ECU box and runs down to the slave cylinder.

    I just had the same issue, turned out the fitting on my new metal body slave cylinder was not fully tight and either was the USP Motorsport SS line I just installed with the new metal slave. Once I got those nice and tight the soft pedal feel, hard getting into gear and the car wanting to creep forward when trying to get into gear went away completely.

    If you end up needing a new clutch check here

  10. #9
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    Thanks for the tips- I'll look into the hydraulic lines.

    Don't think I'll need a new clutch, but I won't rule it out. It still grabs well, and there's no slippage whatsoever. I just can't drive it smoothly because as I lift my foot off the pedal, it feels like it doesn't want to return. I bought an extra liter of brake fluid when I did my first flush- I'll try renting a vacuum power bleeder and giving it another go around.

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