Installation was completed on a 1998 1.8T GLS 5spd w/ 100,070 miles
Diagnoses: Headlights rattled, interior body panels shook, drivetrain slop/clunk, bouncy engine at idle.
How to fix? Replace with either the a snub mount, or with a new rubber mount. Also, you can upgrade the side motor mounts as well, either with V6 mounts, which is a higher grade/pressure fluid in the mount to accomodate the extra 40hp that the V6 has. Or, you could just replace with the basic 1.8T mounts.
V6 mount part number: 8D0199379K
MAKE SURE to disconnect negative terminal from battery. Use all basic knowledge and safety precautions when doing this job.
Tools Needed
T20 torx bit
T25 torx bit
T45 torx bit
10mm socket
13mm deep socket
18mm socket
Ratchets
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
13mm open ended wrench
Assortment of phillips an flat blade drivers
Hydralic jack
Rhine car ramps
Block of wood
Wwheel chocks
Shop light
*Not needed, but useful*
Air tools
Compressor w/ impact driver
Eye glasses - this is a MUST have since you're working under the car
Front Snub Mount
For installing the front snub mount, check the following links.
http://www.goapr.com/VW/support/snub_mount.pdf
You are going to want to remove the air intake box/CAI and side heat shields around the turbo area. Remove bottom belly pan. Assuming car is still on ramps/jack stands, begin to loosen the 13mm nuts on the bottom of the motor mounts. Once you remove the nuts from both front mounts, use the jack and wood blocks to support the bottom of the engine.
On the drivers side of the engine, you can reach below the coolant tank with the deep socket and remove the nut above the mount. Use the ratchet and small extension to access the nut.
On the turbo side of the engine, you are going to need to remove the turbo intercooler hose. The hose coming from the turbo, to the chassis will need to be removed completly to be able to gain access to the bolt, and to turn the wrench. Use caution removing the house. The turbo outlet connection has a ribbed neck, so the hose is on very tight, with added heat, the hose shrank on my car, making it VERY diffucult to remove. Have patience and be careful. DO NOT use a screw driver or any other tool to pry the hose off. Once removed, you should be able to remove the nut carefully. Small turns are key here.
If you are not able to just pull the mounts out after removing the 4 nuts, you will need to jack the motor up more so the engine tilts back, allowing you to pull the mounts out. Once removed, replace with new mounts with proper shields. When placed back in, make sure that the raised section of the new mounts are placed into the proper holes on the top part of the engine mount brackets. Lower engine back down slowly to put the mounts in place. Be fery careful not to strip any threads during this step.
If you are not able to pull the mounts with just raising the motor, you may need to use the 18mm sockets and breaker bar to loosen up the subgrame bolts to drop the center frame slightly. You shouldnt have to do this, but be cautious as to allign the frame back up so the alignment isnt out of place. If you do remove all bolts, you will need to compress the subframe and sway bar with the jack and blocks of wood. Set car back down on ramps and then use the jack and wood to push the subframe back up into the unibody so you can rebolt.
Once all mounts are replaced, you can start putting back together. Tighten 2 rear bolts to 115 ft lbs, and the 4 front bolts to 75-80 ft lbs. The mount nuts, torque to roughly 40-45 ft lbs as they are small bolts and nuts. Reconnect all wires, intake, intercooler, etc. Reconnect the battery terminals, and do propper procedure to do a throttle body alignment.
Any questions, or any errors, let me know.
HTH,
Steve
*I accept no responsibilty for your lack of car knowledge or any errors that you make with your car. Replace at your own risk.*
Diagnoses: Headlights rattled, interior body panels shook, drivetrain slop/clunk, bouncy engine at idle.
How to fix? Replace with either the a snub mount, or with a new rubber mount. Also, you can upgrade the side motor mounts as well, either with V6 mounts, which is a higher grade/pressure fluid in the mount to accomodate the extra 40hp that the V6 has. Or, you could just replace with the basic 1.8T mounts.
V6 mount part number: 8D0199379K
MAKE SURE to disconnect negative terminal from battery. Use all basic knowledge and safety precautions when doing this job.
Tools Needed
T20 torx bit
T25 torx bit
T45 torx bit
10mm socket
13mm deep socket
18mm socket
Ratchets
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
13mm open ended wrench
Assortment of phillips an flat blade drivers
Hydralic jack
Rhine car ramps
Block of wood
Wwheel chocks
Shop light
*Not needed, but useful*
Air tools
Compressor w/ impact driver
Eye glasses - this is a MUST have since you're working under the car
Front Snub Mount
For installing the front snub mount, check the following links.
http://www.goapr.com/VW/support/snub_mount.pdf
Side Motor Mounts20vvillian said:Try my way, it will take you maybe an hour. No removal of the bumper required and i have done 3 cars this way! On my car it took me 40min.
Tools Needed
Black marker
Jack stands
Hydraulic jack
10mm 3/8" socket or 13mm 3/8" socket
2"x4" wood board
Grease
Hacksaw or sharp knife
Large screwdriver
1. Jack car up and lift until the car is about 2 clicks on the jack stands.
![Image]()
2. Place the 2"x4" board on the floor jack and raise it until it touches the Audi symbols.
3. Use the black marker to mark where the nuts are on the left and right motor mounts. Next, use a 13mm deep socket to loosen the bolts on the circular motor mounts on each side of the engine oil pan. You then will need to loosen the 4 nuts on the snub mount bracket.
4. Remove the bolts don’t loose them, next have someone above to watch the cables and hose, now slowly carefully raise the engine block until the bolts of the engine mounts clear the support or until you can wiggle the OEM snub mount out. The snub mount housing is loose so remove you will need to remove it.
5. Grease the new mount up and then slice the OEM mount in half. Stick the 1/2 the slice back on the post first and slide it all the way back toward the radiator it will give you a little extra stiffness without any extra vibration. Next slide you snub on. This wont be easy so you will need to use the screwdriver/prybar to pry it on. Don’t chip it. Apply some grease to the bracket and pop it back on (remember it only goes on one, way flat side to the engine and two bolts side to the left). Replace bolts, but do not tighten.
6. Lower engine, remove jack, with bolts loose start the engine let the vibration settle all the mounts into place. Turn off car tighten bolts remove jack stands.
7. The end!
-steve
picture credit goes to HermanH
You are going to want to remove the air intake box/CAI and side heat shields around the turbo area. Remove bottom belly pan. Assuming car is still on ramps/jack stands, begin to loosen the 13mm nuts on the bottom of the motor mounts. Once you remove the nuts from both front mounts, use the jack and wood blocks to support the bottom of the engine.
On the drivers side of the engine, you can reach below the coolant tank with the deep socket and remove the nut above the mount. Use the ratchet and small extension to access the nut.
On the turbo side of the engine, you are going to need to remove the turbo intercooler hose. The hose coming from the turbo, to the chassis will need to be removed completly to be able to gain access to the bolt, and to turn the wrench. Use caution removing the house. The turbo outlet connection has a ribbed neck, so the hose is on very tight, with added heat, the hose shrank on my car, making it VERY diffucult to remove. Have patience and be careful. DO NOT use a screw driver or any other tool to pry the hose off. Once removed, you should be able to remove the nut carefully. Small turns are key here.
If you are not able to just pull the mounts out after removing the 4 nuts, you will need to jack the motor up more so the engine tilts back, allowing you to pull the mounts out. Once removed, replace with new mounts with proper shields. When placed back in, make sure that the raised section of the new mounts are placed into the proper holes on the top part of the engine mount brackets. Lower engine back down slowly to put the mounts in place. Be fery careful not to strip any threads during this step.
If you are not able to pull the mounts with just raising the motor, you may need to use the 18mm sockets and breaker bar to loosen up the subgrame bolts to drop the center frame slightly. You shouldnt have to do this, but be cautious as to allign the frame back up so the alignment isnt out of place. If you do remove all bolts, you will need to compress the subframe and sway bar with the jack and blocks of wood. Set car back down on ramps and then use the jack and wood to push the subframe back up into the unibody so you can rebolt.
Once all mounts are replaced, you can start putting back together. Tighten 2 rear bolts to 115 ft lbs, and the 4 front bolts to 75-80 ft lbs. The mount nuts, torque to roughly 40-45 ft lbs as they are small bolts and nuts. Reconnect all wires, intake, intercooler, etc. Reconnect the battery terminals, and do propper procedure to do a throttle body alignment.
Any questions, or any errors, let me know.
HTH,
Steve
*I accept no responsibilty for your lack of car knowledge or any errors that you make with your car. Replace at your own risk.*
