2007 Passat - Rear Brakes - DIY with VAGCOM - With PICS!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 47
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: 2007 Passat - Rear Brakes - DIY with VAGCOM - With PICS!

  1. #1
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18

    Post Step By Step DIY - Rear Brakes (Pads + Rotors) w/ EPB - VAGCOM - 2007 Passat

    Hello All. I'm new to the forum and love this website. It is a valuable resource for all things B6 Passat related. I've recently completed replacing the rear brakes on my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T Wolfsburg Edition using the VAGCOM cable and I thought I would post a How-To on the P.W. site.

    I took a look at dhambrick's writeup on vwvortex.com and pretty much followed those steps. My write up covers that plus how to properly change out the rotors as well. Although I'm new to the Passat community, I'm no stranger to turning wrenches and learning how to use new tools along the way. With that in mind - this is how I did my brakes - each person is different in their skill sets when it comes to working on these cars. And as always - when in doubt - ask the forum! Enjoy.



    Step By Step - DIY - Rear Brakes (Pads + Rotors) w/ Electronic Parking Brake - VAGCOM.

    Here are the tools needed for the job:


    - Jack w/ stands
    - 3/8 Ratchet w/ 13mm Socket + extensions
    - T30 Torx Socket
    - Needle Nose Vice Grip
    - 1/2" Breaker Bar w/ 17mm Socket
    - Triple Square MT14 Socket
    (I purchased a set on ebay for $26 - Titan 16138 9 Piece 3/8" Drive Stubby Triple Square Hex Bit Socket Set)
    - Large C-Clamp
    - 90 Degree Pick
    - Cordless Drill
    - BFH (just in case)
    - (2) 3M Scotch-Brite ROLOC Brake Rotor Surfacing Discs
    - Caliper Grease
    - (2) Cans of Brake Cleaner Spray
    - Battery Charger
    - VAGCOM Cable from Ross-Tech. I ordered the VCDS Micro-CAN cable. It works on all 2005.5+ Passats. Trust me - it's WELL worth the $249 investment.
    - Download latest VCDS Software + Manual from the Ross-Tech website
    - Brake Pads - Wagner Thermo-Quiet Ceramic - #PD1108 - (O'Reilly's)
    - Brake Rotors - Brake Best - #980684RGS - (O'Reilly's)

    1. Connect the battery charger.


    Pretty simple. This MUST be connected to prevent your battery from draining while you perform the brake job. (Ask me how I know) Yes - you need to leave the car ignition in the "ON" position (not running of course) to maintain comms between the VAGCOM and the car. Without a charger in place - the battery will die and trip just about every light and code possible (See "Uh-Oh" section)

    2. Connect the VAGCOM cable to the OBDII outlet under the dash on the drivers side.


    The Ross-Tech Manual will be your best friend throughout this whole procedure - Make sure you page through it as it can answer almost all of your questions, so be sure to keep it available.

    Green is good. Run a quick comms check. (OPTIONS --> TEST)


    This is what it should read. K1 & K2 options are not available for this cable - so don't worry about it.

    3. Now it's time to open the rear parking brake - yes, YOU NEED A VAGCOM TO OPEN THIS!! (Unless you want to chance screwing up your parking brake motors.)
    Pull up your SELECT option.
    53-Parking Brake.
    Basic Settings - 04.
    In Group, key in "007"
    Hit "GO!" (Click on the Pic to play the video)


    I learn as I go. This was the first time I used the VAGCOM and opened the brakes & it went smoothly. Now you're ready to proceed with the brake job. Leave the car "ON" and double check to make sure your battery is charging before proceeding.

    4. Remove the lug caps using the 90 degree pick. Take the 1/2" Breaker bar and 17mm socket and break the lugs loose.


    Jack up the car under the rear control arm.


    Place your jack stand on the pinch weld where your factory jack would normally be used and remove the tire. When you remove the jack, the control arm will travel down allowing you more room to work on the brakes.


    5. Remove the caliper using a 13mm socket and a pair of needle nose Vice-Grips.


    I didn't have a wrench thin enough to fit between the caliper and the bracket - so a vice grip was used in its place.


    Secure the caliper out of the way. Do not let it hang from the flexible brake hose. We will come back to this shortly.



    6. Remove the caliper bracket using the MT14 triple square socket.


    The 2 caliper bracket bolts are fairly easy to spot on the backside.


    If you can get some extensions & fit an impact wrench in there - I would highly recommend it as these are a pain to wrench out by hand. Once the bolts have been removed, remove the caliper bracket.


    7. Remove the old rotor. Use a T30 socket to remove the retaining screw. Should it not decide to let go of the hub (as was the case with mine), a few taps with a BFH will loosen it right up.


    8. Prepare the new rotor for installation. New rotors usually come covered in packing oil to prevent corrosion while sitting on the shelf. Remove this oily film with Brake Cleaner and a rag.


    Next, put a non-directional swirl finish on the new rotors using the 3M Scotch-Brite ROLOC surfacing discs and a cordless drill.


    This non directional swirl finish helps to eliminate noises and aids in breaking-in the new pads.


    9. Prepare the mounting surfaces. Sand off any surface rust on the hub. Be sure to spray off and clean the ABS sensor behind the hub with brake-cleaner as this has accumulated a lot of brake dust buildup. Put a thin coat of caliper grease on the hub surface - this will prevent corrosion buildup.


    Install the new rotor. Secure it with the retaining screw.


    10. Remove the old pads from the caliper bracket. DO NOT DAMAGE THE OLD SHIMS!! Unless your new set of pads comes with new shims, you will need to reuse these.


    Lubricate the pad-contact points on the shims and reinstall.


    Remove the caliper pins. They should pull out fairly easily.


    Lubricate these pins with caliper grease and reinstall - make sure to snap the dust boot back in place. Lubricating the caliper pins is critical in maximizing the life of your brakes as it allows the caliper to move freely along the slides ensuring even wear on both sides.


    Reinstall the caliper bracket.


    Snap in the new pads. I went with Wagner Thermo-Quiet Ceramic brake pads as they're quieter and produce less brake dust than semi-metallic pads.


    11. Take the caliper and remove the electronic parking brake motor (leave the electronic parking brake motor plugged in). This has to be done in order to fit the C-Clamp straight on the caliper to collapse the piston. (NOTE: if you have a piston compressor tool, then you do not need to remove the EPB motor. This was only done to prevent damaging the EPB motor with the C-Clamp) The electronic parking brake motor is held on by two T30 torx bolts. Remove the bolts and pull the electronic parking brake motor from the caliper. Do be gentle with this. It should pull right apart.

    Secure the electronic parking brake motor out of the way. DO NOT TRY TO MANIPULATE THE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE SHAFT OR OUTLET IN ANY WAY. LEAVE IT ALONE. IT MUST GO BACK TOGETHER THE SAME WAY IT CAME APART!



    Go under the hood and remove the brake fluid cap off the reservoir and place a wadded up rag over the filler hole - this will prevent any backsplash of fluid from collapsing the piston.

    Position the C-Clamp on the caliper. I put the screw end of the C-Clamp on the piston just so that there was no chance of inadvertently turning the now exposed parking brake gear. Using the C-Clamp, SLOWLY compress the piston all the way down. Do not twist the piston.

    While compressing - you will likely hear the car dinging at you and the brake light will come on and / or start to flash. Don't worry, this will all go away after you close and cycle the parking brake. NOTE: You DO NOT NEED to open the bleeders at any time while changing out the rear brakes. Should you choose to bleed the brakes, do so after you've returned the electronic parking brake to normal operating status. (i.e. NOT WHILE OPENED!)


    The electronic parking brake motor is sealed to the caliper with a black rubber o-ring to prevent moisture and dirt from getting inside the electronic motor. It's important to maintain this seal. Lubricate this o-ring with caliper grease.


    Same with the mating surface of the parking brake motor. This will ease the installation process and promote a good seal.


    Put the electronic parking brake motor back on the caliper. It should go back together without any issues.


    12. Lubricate all contact points on the caliper, piston head, and brake pad backings.


    Reinstall the caliper. Ensure all bolts are tightened. Check the caliper slides. (see video - click the pic below)


    13. Put the wheel back on. Repeat for the other side. REMEMBER TO PUT THE CAP BACK ON YOUR BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AFTER COMPLETING THE INSTALLATION!! Lower the car from the jack stands, and torque your wheel lugs down.

    14. Pull up your VAGCOM control window. It should still be on the electronic parking brake controller. Key in "006" in Group and hit GO! (Sorry no pic) You will hear the parking brake close. The car should chime once it's closed indicating that the system is restored. Wait a good minute or two after the brake closes before closing out and disconnecting the VAGCOM just to be safe. After you've restored your electronic parking brake, pump the brakes a few times to ensure brake fluid is back in the calipers.
    The parking brake is now fully functional. Go ahead and cycle it a couple times from the dash button. If everything checks out - you should be good to go. Start it up and go for a test drive.

    Now pat yourself on the back for saving a few hundred dollars on an otherwise $550 dealership job.




    Now, If you had an Uh-Oh…

    If you inadvertently tripped a few lights & codes because you forgot to double check that the charger was actually charging before you started the brake job (like what happened to me), give yourself a face-palm and don't panic. The car is probably dead.

    Here's what I did: (Use at your own risk)
    Close out and disconnect the VAGCOM.
    Disconnect the battery from the car.
    Put the charger on the battery for a few hours and let it charge up completely.
    Reconnect the battery to the car - reconnect the battery charger - keep it on a medium steady charge.
    Put the key to the "ON" position. (Notice that almost every dash light that can come on - stays on - again don't panic)
    Reconnect the VAGCOM.
    Run an Auto-Scan from the main menu for your Passat.
    After the VAGCOM runs the scan, scroll to the top of the list to get the diagnostic summary.
    - Laugh at yourself when almost EVERY SYSTEM pulls up a fault code from the low voltage.
    A fault in any system in the diagnostic summary will appear in red text. Simply double click on the red text and clear the codes.
    NOTE: The (G85) Steering Angle Sensor Fault (Orange Steering Wheel light on the dash) will reset itself as soon as you drive a few feet - It cannot be reset with the VAGCOM.
    With the codes clear, proceed with the step to close the parking brake (Where you left off before it died)

    It took me a little while to figure it all out with the battery going dead on me, but if a VAGCOM rookie like me can do it with nothing more than a Ross-Tech manual, you should have no problems doing it yourself - even if you manage to screw it up a bit. I was able to get everything back to normal after seriously screwing this procedure up. Lesson Learned: Double check your work every step of the way.
    Last edited by uwwsquirrel; 04-07-2013 at 02:48 PM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Albany, NY
    Age
    25
    Posts
    755
    you dont need to touch the parking brake motor if you used vagcom

    the motor is retracted all the way w/ vagcom u can just push the piston in with the motor still in the caliper no need to remove. Ive done it multiple time on B6's like this and not a single DIY ive seen says anything about removing the motor unless they are trying to do the rear brake change without the use of a Vag wire

  4. #3
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    I knew the piston was retracted fully and I probably didn't HAVE to remove the EPB but - again this was MY first time doing rear brakes on a B6 Passat. I've done enough brake jobs done in the past to know that some pistons collapse easily, and some put up a fight. In not knowing how much resistance the caliper on my Passat would give, I thought it best to err on the side of caution and remove the EPB so as not to damage it by putting pressure on it from the C-Clamp. The next time I have to do these brakes, I'll remember to bring my brake caliper tool instead of a C-Clamp.

  5. #4
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL
    Posts
    609
    Thanks for documenting the process!!

  6. #5
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    @ jdiaz: Not a problem - I've always been a fan of automotive forums, the how-to guides are awesome tools for the Do-It-Yourselfers. I've already learned so much just from searching this site, figured I'd make myself useful and give something back.

  7. #6
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    189
    Thanks! Very detail documented here. saved for future use.

  8. #7
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    West Chester, PA
    Posts
    9
    Wow, fantastic write up! A double internet high-5 for you, sir

  9. #8
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    163
    This should go in a FAQ sticky. How come this forum doesn't have one yet?

  10. #9
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    Hey all - thanks for the feedback!

    I've put over 10,000 miles on the new rear brakes and still haven't had any issues with it.

  11. #10
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    West Bend, WI
    Posts
    29
    Question: Does anyone know if I can use cable and VCDS-LITE to open the rear calipers?

    Thanks for a great post, by the way. I'm needing to do my rear brake soon and have always done them on other cars but this will be the fist with the electronic e-brake of the passat. My VW dealer here quoted $385. for parts and labor for my 07 rear brake job.

  12. #11
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    What's up fellow Wisconsinite!? (Used to live in Madison before coming to Cali.)

    What type of cable are you planning to use? Since you have the '07 Passat, at a minimum you will need the Ross-Tech 'Micro-CAN' cable ($249.00) - (The Ross-Tech HEX-USB+CAN ($349.00) is definitely the best one as it's backwards compatible with older models.)

    Yes $249.00 for a damn cable is costly - BUT it's worth every penny. The thing about VCDS-LITE is that it's designed to work with USB interface cables other than the costly Ross-Tech brand cables - BUT there's a catch - you're paying $99 for the VCDS-LITE registration and there's little, if any guarantee that any functions offered by Ross-Tech's VAGCOM will even work using a cable other than Ross-Tech's brand. Sure you can find interface cables on eBay for $15 - most of which will only PARTIALLY work with the OLDER VAGCOM versions (i.e. 409.1, etc) - making it completely useless for your vehicle - not to mention, that's $114 you'll never see again. I was gonna go that route myself until I did some more searching and saw that others were saying the same thing.

    Consider this - with all the quirks and random things that can go awry with these damn cars, wouldn't it be better to have a tool on hand that can instantly correct these issues? I can say without a doubt that the Micro-CAN cable works great for my '07. In addition to using it for the rear brake service, I used it to diagnose a misfire in my #4 Cylinder - upon which was remedied once I replaced the coil packs - I don't even want to know how much that could have cost me if I had to take it to the dealership to get it fixed. I also run a scan every oil change just to see if anything is wrong and to reset the service interval. Bottom line - it's a damn good tool to have. The latest version of VCDS (11.11) is pretty nice as well as user friendly.

    $385.00 for the dealer to do the rear brakes is a bit cheaper than most, but you could spend that on a Micro-CAN Cable + Parts and just do it yourself. Then you'll always have the VAGCOM there if you need it for future use (which you will if you plan on keeping your '07 for a while).

    Seems like an easy choice to me.

  13. #12
    I'm just itching to be Banned NEWMAN'SOWN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    A Cardboard Box
    Posts
    13,613
    Very nice job on the writeup! B6 section needs more quality writeups.

  14. #13
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Scranton, PA
    Posts
    3
    Great write up, really appreciate it as I'm about to order the parts to do this myself. I have a Ross Tech cable but the question I can't seem to find the answer to is: are there any specific requirements for the battery charger? I called Schumacher they didn't know what amp rating would be needed but they were concerned an auto charger may shut down when it senses the car drawing battery power.

    Thanks in advance for any insight anyone can provide.

  15. #14
    Neutral
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dover, DE
    Posts
    17
    Thanks for the write up. I used this today to successfully change my rear hub. I got the loaner disc brake tool from Autozone but didn't need it because the VCDS kept them open until I was done. Can't wait until I actually have to change my brakes!

  16. #15
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    Glad to see the how-to getting used.

    @Herr: The Schumacher is what I used. Just make sure you keep an eye on it throughout the procedure - it has a light indicating whether it's charging or not, so pay attention when connecting - or else the battery dies quickly without it. Your best bet would be to get an old school trickle charger - no auto-shutoffs on those

  17. #16
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    Hello,

    This past weekend I changed out my wife's 06 Passat's right rear wheel bearing. I used VCDS to retract the EPB, and connected an auto charger to the battery in the trunk. Because I had previously attempted to loosen the axle bolt with a 1/2" square socket extension, when I used the just received M18 triple square driver, it rounded off the 8 'good' points. SO... I had to drill it out. NEVER ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE AXLE BOLT WITHOUT THE M18 TRIPLE SQUARE DRIVER. This made the job take WAY more time, and like UWWSQUIREL, my battery died. (I think the auto charger shut off).

    Anyway, after charging the car, and clearing all codes, the 2 low battery codes for the EBP would NOT clear (02432 & 02433). When I clear the codes, they immediately reset with the same time stamp and mileage. I've tried opening and closing, and cycling the EPS via VCDS, but it doesn't do anything - as if the low battery codes block those actions, but there is no warning message given. I've tried disconnecting the battery for 10min and holding the break pedal down for 35 sec, then holding the EPS switch for 10 sec to try to reset the EBS system, but no improvement. When driving the car, the EPS switch and brake dash light both flash, and >20 mph, there is a bing, bing every couple seconds.

    Below is the EPS scan from VCDS. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    thanks,
    Mike

    Sunday,22,September,2013,21:24:45:36846
    VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
    VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
    Data version: 20130910


    VIN: WVWEU93C36E097811 License Plate: ANGIE



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
    Control Module Part Number: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
    Component and/or Version: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
    Software Coding: 0000013
    Work Shop Code: WSC 131071 1023 2097151
    VCID: 2167297AF8460416BBD-8074
    2 Faults Found:

    02433 - Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11101100
    Fault Priority: 1
    Fault Frequency: 4
    Reset counter: 69
    Mileage: 296776 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.22
    Time: 00:35:39

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 11.90 V
    Count: 87

    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11101100
    Fault Priority: 1
    Fault Frequency: 4
    Reset counter: 69
    Mileage: 296776 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.22
    Time: 00:35:39

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 11.28 V
    Count: 86


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Address 53: DTCs cleared

  18. #17
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    Have to re-do Basic Settings:

    VW Passat (3C) Parking Brake - Ross-Tech Wiki

  19. #18
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    Quote Originally Posted by uwwsquirrel View Post
    Glad to see the how-to getting used. (snip)
    So, these Wagner Thermo-Quiet or Duralast Gold ceramics don't need a compatible disc for them?
    Thinking of changing over from OEM TRW pads when my discs are due. Now at 62k mile.

    What mileage were your discs when you decided to change?
    Is there a minimum thickness spec?
    Why did you decide to change discs too?

    Nice write-up. URL saved. Was this ever made a stickey? If not, why not
    Last edited by RichardSEL; 09-26-2013 at 12:21 AM.

  20. #19
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardSEL View Post
    Have to re-do Basic Settings:

    VW Passat (3C) Parking Brake - Ross-Tech Wiki
    Thanks for the reply Richard. The basic settings seem to be locked due to the low voltage faults. I did some more searching and found a TSB: 46 08 04 July 31, 2008 2017924 After Installing a New Parking Brake Switch, Electronic Parking Brake, Does Not Respond, Warning Light On (http://nateronline.com/Technical_Bul...n_light_on.pdf)

    It describes how to do a terminal 30 reset of the EPB controller. After I did this, the right side fault was able to be erased, but the left side fault is still persistent. I've tried this procedure several times, even shorting out the positive and negative battery wires (w/ the battery disconnected of course), but the left side (02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor) will not erase. The ironic thing is that I worked on the right side, removed the caliper and replaced the wheel bearing, but didn't even remove the left wheel...

    After the 2nd time I disconnected the battery, I got a new fault in the EPB system:

    01315 - Transmission Control Module
    013 - Check DTC Memory - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11101101
    Fault Priority: 3
    Fault Frequency: 2
    Reset counter: 75
    Mileage: 297000 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.30
    Time: 00:31:54

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 12.42 V
    Count: 224

    Any other suggestions?

    thanks,
    Mike

  21. #20
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    As you say, seem strange that you worked on the LHS EPB but the RHS was showing fault when it wasn't even touched

    Are both EPBs working now and you're only left with the TCM fault? And there's 224 instances logged. Wonder whether that's been happening irrespective of EPB... From this distance can only suggest a re-adaption of the TCM -- the procedure's on the Ross-Tech Wiki.

    When I physically checked my CANbus module (was installing Polar FIS+) didn't fully reconnect its plug. Needs to go "click" when fully home. Once I'd realised what I'd done, had all sorts of faults remaining needing a re-adaption of every module to clear.

    Is this the only fault now remaining in your Autoscan?

    If you've still got an EPB fault, if caliper has been physically wound back too far it may be outside the range for it to be electronically re-adjusted. You may have to wind it forward again until pads just touch disk then back by a mm. They should only be manually retracted by one turn max. This is coz of the auto-setup of these electronically controlled brakes. They will also auto-adjust pad/disk gap if the EPB hasn't been used for sometime.

    Just some thoughts

  22. #21
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    Richard,

    Only the right EPB works either from the dash button, or using VCDS. Both faults occured when the battery went low (I left the key on w/ an auto shut off charger whild changing the right side wheel bearing). I have 2 EPB faults, I'll copy them both at the end of this post. There were some others that wouldn't clear from the autoscan (00778 - Steering Angle Sensor, 00924 - Relay for Headlamp Cleaning System) The 00778 self clears when I start driving, and I'm not sure her car has the headlamp cleaning system feature. All the other faults that trip w/ battery removal are clearable except the EPB codes. The TCM fault is new, it only showed up after I was able to clear the right side supply voltage fault (02433). Since this just happned yesterday, I haven't searched it yet, but I'm wondering how its related to the EPB...

    I'll double check the CANbus module, I don't remember a click when I plugged it in.

    I haven't touched the left side caliper, but I did do the VCDS basic setting to open them both before I started the wheel bearing job. I'm assuming you're referring to manually retracting the EPB by disassembling it from the caliper and doing 1 full turn. Clockwise, or counter-clockwise? Turning the caliper piston would not work, correct?

    Hopefully I'll get some time this afternoon and let you know what I find.

    thanks again,
    Mike

  23. #22
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3
    Does anybody have the torque specs for the caliper and caliper bracket bolts. Thanks

  24. #23
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    Quote Originally Posted by m.reich View Post
    Only the right EPB works either from the dash button, or using VCDS. Both faults occured when the battery went low (I left the key on w/ an auto shut off charger whild changing the right side wheel bearing). I have 2 EPB faults, I'll copy them both at the end of this post. There were some others that wouldn't clear from the autoscan (00778 - Steering Angle Sensor, 00924 - Relay for Headlamp Cleaning System) The 00778 self clears when I start driving, and I'm not sure her car has the headlamp cleaning system feature. All the other faults that trip w/ battery removal are clearable except the EPB codes. The TCM fault is new, it only showed up after I was able to clear the right side supply voltage fault (02433).
    Do both calipers retract and reset when using the VCDS procedure? I did retract & reset three times after changing rear pads just to be sure


    Quote Originally Posted by m.reich View Post
    Since this just happned yesterday, I haven't searched it yet, but I'm wondering how its related to the EPB...
    Coz low battery volts does weird things to settings of modules, especially if you see a B+ warning anywheres

    Quote Originally Posted by m.reich View Post
    I'll double check the CANbus module, I don't remember a click when I plugged it in.
    Didn't even know you'd changed it or had existing one out...

    Quote Originally Posted by m.reich View Post
    I haven't touched the left side caliper, but I did do the VCDS basic setting to open them both before I started the wheel bearing job. I'm assuming you're referring to manually retracting the EPB by disassembling it from the caliper and doing 1 full turn. Clockwise, or counter-clockwise? Turning the caliper piston would not work, correct?
    If you've only done VCDS retract and reset and there was no fault before on either caliper then this should be fine
    For the caliper that's not working see whether you're getting volts at the EPB motor junction

    We need to see your Autoscan. Caliper is one complete turn clockwise to retract

  25. #24
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    Quote Originally Posted by pasjet View Post
    Does anybody have the torque specs for the caliper and caliper bracket bolts. Thanks
    Fixing bolts 35nM

  26. #25
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    Richard,

    1. Only the right caliper functions at all when using the VCDS procedure. Its as if the fault code prevents VCDS from actually communicating to the EPB.

    2. I thought you meant the VCDS Canbus adapater. No, I didn't replace the module. And, as I'm sure you know, the VCDS adapter connector doesn't click when connected (but I did double check)

    3. I haven't jacked the car up again yet to check the voltage at the connector. If I can't figure this out, I'll do that this weekend. I ran another autoscan this morning. The TCM fault is gone (maybe the car had to be driven to clear it). But, the left side EPB low voltage is still there from 9/22 when I changed the right side wheel bearing (and the batter drained). Here's the scan:

    Friday,04,October,2013,09:37:08:36846
    VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
    VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
    Data version: 20130910


    VIN: WVWEU93C36E097811 License Plate:
    Mileage: 297030km-184565mi Repair Order: 10/4/13



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Chassis Type: 3C (3C0)
    Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 36 42 44 46 47 52 53 55
    56 62 65 72 76

    VIN: WVWEU93C36E097811 Mileage: 297030km/184565miles

    00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
    01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
    02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
    03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
    08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
    09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
    0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
    15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
    16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
    17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
    19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
    1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
    25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
    36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000
    42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
    44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
    46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
    47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
    52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
    53-Parking Brake -- Status: Malfunction 0010
    55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
    56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
    62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
    65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
    72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
    76-Park Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
    Part No SW: 03H 997 033 N HW: Hardware No
    Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2371
    Revision: --H08--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
    Coding: 0000075
    Shop #: WSC 05314 000 00000
    VCID: 3851E41E4BDC65DE6C3-806D

    No fault code found.
    Readiness: 0000 0000

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09G-927-750.lbl
    Part No SW: 09G 927 750 HK HW: 09G 927 750 AJ
    Component: AQ 250 6F 1271
    Revision: 00H38000 Serial number:
    Coding: 0000072
    Shop #: WSC 02137 444 84367
    VCID: 8127C9FAD88664161BD-80D4

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3C0-614-095-C2.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 614 095 Q HW: 3C0 614 095 Q
    Component: ESP 440 C2 H015 0003
    Revision: H015 Serial number: 0658186634
    Coding: 0112077
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3041DC3EA3ACBD9E243-8065

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3C0-907-044.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 044 Q HW: 3C0 907 044 Q
    Component: ClimatronicPQ46 042 0202
    Revision: 00042004 Serial number: 00000000000000
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: 2F43DF42BE92A2663D9-807A

    2 Faults Found:
    01810 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Right (V159)
    000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01100000
    Fault Priority: 3
    Fault Frequency: 4
    Reset counter: 76
    Mileage: 297009 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.30
    Time: 00:18:04

    01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158)
    000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01100000
    Fault Priority: 3
    Fault Frequency: 3
    Reset counter: 76
    Mileage: 297020 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.10.03
    Time: 09:09:34


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 J HW: 3C0 937 049 J
    Component: Bordnetz-SG H37 1301
    Revision: 00H37000 Serial number: 00000002165730
    Coding: F78E8F0340041A00000A00000F000000002A5D435C0000
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3041DC3EA3ACBD9E243-8065

    Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3C1 955 119 Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
    Component: Wischer VW461 012 0503
    Coding: 00065493
    Shop #: WSC 05311

    Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 T Labels: 1K0-955-559-AF.CLB
    Component: RegenLichtSens 011 1110
    Coding: 00208933
    Shop #: WSC 05311

    1 Fault Found:
    00924 - Relay for Headlamp Cleaning System (J39)
    009 - Open or Short to Ground
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01101001
    Fault Priority: 4
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 76
    Mileage: 297009 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.30
    Time: 00:18:00

    Freeze Frame:
    ON
    Voltage: 13.80 V
    ON
    ON
    OFF
    OFF
    ON


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 0F: Digital Radio Labels: 8E0-035-593-SIR.lbl
    Part No SW: 8E0 035 593 D HW: 8E0 035 593 D
    Component: SDAR SIRIUS H03 0060
    Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ4Z7E4006934
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: 2A75CE568570C74EEA7-807F

    1 Fault Found:
    02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated
    000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01100000
    Fault Priority: 7
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 75
    Mileage: 297009 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.30
    Time: 00:18:34


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3C0-909-605.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 909 605 G HW: 3C0 909 605 G
    Component: 0C AIRBAG VW8R 029 2421
    Revision: 09029000 Serial number: 0039VSG4AMRL
    Coding: 0012355
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2A75CE568570C74EEA7-807F

    Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3C0 959 339
    Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 006 0001

    Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 00000000034BAH

    Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 0001.01.000000600000000000†63

    Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 000000†6332MSME0A5032775†63

    Subsystem 5 - Serial number: 032775†6342MSME0A3B43126†63

    Subsystem 6 - Serial number: B43126†6351HTS65CHQI7A3L†63

    Subsystem 7 - Serial number: QI7A3L†6361HTS614FUHMF2U†63

    Subsystem 8 - Serial number: UHMF2U†63727TS68SDE16R2F†63

    Subsystem 9 - Serial number: E16R2F†63827TS65CH65IN25

    Subsystem 10 - Serial number: 65IN25

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3C0-953-549-SW20.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 953 549 E HW: 3C0 953 549 E
    Component: J0527 0015
    Revision: 00005000 Serial number: 3C5953507P
    Coding: 0002111
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2E7DC246B998AB6E36F-807B

    Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
    Component: E0221 006 0080

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3C0-920-xxx-17.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 920 970 H HW: 3C0 920 970 H
    Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT VD1 4038
    Revision: V0033000 Serial number: 00000000000000
    Coding: 0007205
    Shop #: WSC 02172 444 84407
    VCID: 2977315A8076CC56E3D-807C

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 3C0-907-530-V1.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 530 C HW: 3C0 907 951 A
    Component: Gateway 007 0040
    Revision: 00007000 Serial number: 0700C059120DE3
    Coding: 7FFD1F14D31002
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2167297AF8460416BBD-8074

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 1C: Position Sensing Labels: 1Kx-919-xxx-1C.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 919 965 HW: 3C0 919 965
    Component: Kompass 005 0002
    Revision: 00005000 Serial number: 1166279TN7C904
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: EDFF854AF41E9076CF5-80B8

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 3C0-959-433-25.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 959 433 C HW: 3C0 959 433 C
    Component: IMMO 041 0364
    Revision: 00041000 Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
    Shop #: WSC 02125 444 15687
    VCID: 2A75CE568570C74EEA7-807F

    Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3C0 905 861 H
    Component: ELV 028 0380
    3C0905861H ELV 028 0380

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 3C0-959-760.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 959 760 A HW: 3C0 959 760 A
    Component: Sitzverstellung 0601
    Revision: 00002000 Serial number: 00000000000000
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: 2B7BCB528A8ADE46111-807E

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MAX2.lbl
    Part No: 1K0 959 701 L
    Component: Tuer-SG 024 2461
    Coding: 0001463
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3753E72246C26AA6659-8062

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb
    Part No: 3C1 909 144 B
    Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.5 D04 1607
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: 2469206EE754113ED0B-8071

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3C0-959-433-46.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 959 433 C HW: 3C0 959 433 C
    Component: KSG PQ46 RDK 041 0213
    Revision: 00041000 Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
    Coding: 13910F8801862E521804141FF00A8F0E081800
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2A75CE568570C74EEA7-807F

    Subsystem 1 - Component: Sounder n.mounted

    Subsystem 2 - Component: NGS n.mounted

    Subsystem 3 - Component: IRUE n.mounted

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 47: Sound System Labels: 3C0-035-456.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 035 456 A HW: 3C0 035 456 A
    Component: DSP 10 Kanal 0008
    Revision: 00008000 Serial number: 00000000008615
    Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
    VCID: 1E1D1286C9383BEE86F-804B

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 1K0-959-702-MAX2.lbl
    Part No: 1K0 959 702 L
    Component: Tuer-SG 024 2461
    Coding: 0001462
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3851E41E4BDC65DE6C3-806D

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
    Component: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
    Revision: 013
    Coding: 0000013
    Shop #: WSC 131071 1023 2097151
    VCID: 2167297AF8460416BBD-8074

    1 Fault Found:
    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11111100
    Fault Priority: 1
    Fault Frequency: 8
    Reset counter: 69
    Mileage: 296776 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.22
    Time: 00:35:39

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 11.28 V
    Count: 86


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 5M0-907-357-V1.lbl
    Part No SW: 5M0 907 357 HW: 5M0 907 357
    Component: AFS-Steuergeraet X016
    Revision: H09 Serial number:
    Coding: 0000007
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: F1C7993AE8267496EBD-80A4

    Subsystem 1 - Part No: 7L6 941 329
    Component: AFS-Lst.-Modul l X017
    Coding: 00000035

    Subsystem 2 - Part No: 7L6 941 330
    Component: AFS-Lst.-Modul r X017
    Coding: 00000035

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 56: Radio Labels: 1K0-035-1xx-56.lbl
    Part No SW: 1K0 035 180 C HW: 1K0 035 180 C
    Component: Radio PM6 016 0017
    Revision: 00016000 Serial number: VWZ5Z7E2029192
    Coding: 0000010
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 20612C7EF34C0D1EB43-8075

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN2.lbl
    Part No: 1K0 959 703 D
    Component: Tuer-SG 021 2432
    Coding: 0000144
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3147D93AA8A6B4962BD-8064

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 3C0-959-433-65.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 959 433 C HW: 3C0 959 433 C
    Component: RDK 0391
    Revision: 00041000 Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
    Coding: 0100101
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2A75CE568570C74EEA7-807F

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 72: Door, Rear Right Labels: 1K0-959-704-GEN2.lbl
    Part No: 1K0 959 704 D
    Component: Tuer-SG 021 2432
    Coding: 0000144
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 3245D636ADA08F8E527-8067

    No fault code found.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3C0-919-283.lbl
    Part No SW: 3C0 919 283 B HW: 3C0 919 283 B
    Component: Parkhilfe 8-Kan 004 0011
    Revision: 00004000 Serial number: 82930523801429
    Coding: 0001114
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 2871345E9B7CF55EFC3-807D

    1 Fault Found:
    01628 - Sensor for Parking-Aid; Front Mid-Left (G254)
    004 - No Signal/Communication
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01100100
    Fault Priority: 3
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 75
    Mileage: 297009 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.30
    Time: 00:12:02


    End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

  27. #26
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    I finally got around to jacking the rear wheel up again and checking out the EPB caliper motor. I inspected the housing for cracks - there were none. I then applied 12v across the motor leads and the motor turned both directions with the same sound as the right side motor, so I'm pretty sure that isn't the problem.

    I then reinstalled the caliper and tried the EPB, but it still only worked the right side. I then performed a terminal 30 reset (disconnect the battery, short the positive lead to ground for 10 sec, re=install, leave the door open, turn the key to ON, press the brake, wait 30 sec, then cycle the EPB button twice (5 seconds per press). I did another auto scan, and attempted to clear the EPB code. BUT, it will not clear. The SAME code date-stamped 22-Sep-13 keeps appearing.

    I am still looking for a better way to clear the code from the EPB controller. Does anybody here think the dealer would be able to reset it and upgrade the firmware (TSB 2015075/01-07-47)??

    If there is no other way to reset it, My next idea is to buy a replacement EPB controller. I've seen some on ebay, but I don't know where its located in the car. Have any of you replaced it before?

    Here's latest EPB scan I took today (note the sep 22 date stamp) :


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
    Component: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
    Revision: 013
    Coding: 0000013
    Shop #: WSC 131071 1023 2097151
    VCID: 2167297AF8460416BBD-8074

    1 Fault Found:
    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11111100
    Fault Priority: 1
    Fault Frequency: 19
    Reset counter: 69
    Mileage: 296776 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2013.09.22
    Time: 00:35:39

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 11.28 V
    Count: 86


    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  28. #27
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    LONDON, U.K.
    Posts
    585
    I've had 2015075 applied although I didn't have any fault registered at the time. It does refer to faults being stored in the controller.

    FYI, my EPB controller read before:
    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
    Component: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
    Revision: 013
    Coding: 0000012
    Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
    VCID: 21672875F87553100EB

    No fault code found.

    And after the two-stage VAS update process:
    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
    Part No SW: 3C0 907 801 GX HW: 3C0 907 801 GX
    Component: EPB VD8E2777 013 7077
    Revision: 013
    Coding: 0000012
    Shop #: WSC 01244 210 127809
    VCID: 7EDD3309294BCCEEFF9

    No fault code found.

    VW main agent quoted me two hours, my usual VAG indie (VW Mastertech also with VAS) one hour

    The TSB does talk about the fault being caught in the controller, so it must be possible to clear for the flash update to be applied. Which the flash update is designed to counter that stuck fault in the first place... p2 of the TSB refers. You have an affected controller revision "B"
    Last edited by RichardSEL; 11-11-2013 at 05:13 AM. Reason: TSB

  29. #28
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    OK, good. I'll call both my indie and the dealer and ask specifically about TSB 2015075, and what their rate would be. Yes, I read somewhere that the SW upgrade will uprev the part# to G, so I know mine hasn't been upgraded yet. Hopefully I can get this fixed and stop dealing with the 'ding, ding, ding...'

  30. #29
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    14
    My indie isn't able to program modules and my local dealer quoted 1 hour to perform the TSB. I took it there Saturday, and initially the tech wouldn't program it as he detected some corrosion on the contacts between the harness and the parking brake motor. I had them show me as I had tested the motor last weekend. The motor contacts looked clean and sliver, but there was some mild greenness on the harness side. I pressed them to update the controller anyway, he did, but the code still wouldn't clear. At first he tried telling me that it was due to the corrosion, but I pointed out that the code was still time stamped 9/22 - the day I changed out the right bearing. At that point, he agreed with me that it must be a problem with the controller. He looked up the location of the controller and said its under the console. I plan on using the DYI for the Euro cupholder and order a used one off ebay. I'll let you know how it goes.

  31. #30
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    18
    Hey Guys

    Damn I really need to subscribe to my own posts - it's been a while since I've been on here.

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardSEL View Post
    So, these Wagner Thermo-Quiet or Duralast Gold ceramics don't need a compatible disc for them?
    Thinking of changing over from OEM TRW pads when my discs are due. Now at 62k mile.

    What mileage were your discs when you decided to change?
    Is there a minimum thickness spec?
    Why did you decide to change discs too?

    Nice write-up. URL saved. Was this ever made a stickey? If not, why not
    I just decided on the Wagner TQ's because I've had very good luck with them on my other vehicles. As far as the rotors, I was a little sketchy at first because they were so inexpensive, but they came with a 2 year warranty - that's what sold me on them. I've got over 25,000 miles on these brakes and the car still stops on a dime (quietly I might add) and zero wobbling/pulsating. I'm very happy with this pad / rotor combination.

    My 07 had about 55,000 miles on it at the time of the brake job IIRC. By then the rotors were toast - mostly due to the grinding / lack of pad. I'm sure there is a minimum thickness, but typically on solid discs, it's best just to replace them altogether. Unlike the front vented discs, solid discs are more prone to heat warping as they wear down - and resurfacing a used disc only speeds up this process. It would cost about the same to get the rotors turned as it would buying new ones - so obviously I'm going with new ones. There's nothing wrong with premium OEM grade replacements. Don't waste your $$$ on that aftermarket drilled/slotted garbage - some stores call these 'premium' and don't even offer warranties to back their products.

    No idea if the mod's are planning on stickey-ing this yet. I never imagined my writeup would get so many views

    Quote Originally Posted by m.reich View Post
    My indie isn't able to program modules and my local dealer quoted 1 hour to perform the TSB. I took it there Saturday, and initially the tech wouldn't program it as he detected some corrosion on the contacts between the harness and the parking brake motor. I had them show me as I had tested the motor last weekend. The motor contacts looked clean and sliver, but there was some mild greenness on the harness side. I pressed them to update the controller anyway, he did, but the code still wouldn't clear. At first he tried telling me that it was due to the corrosion, but I pointed out that the code was still time stamped 9/22 - the day I changed out the right bearing. At that point, he agreed with me that it must be a problem with the controller. He looked up the location of the controller and said its under the console. I plan on using the DYI for the Euro cupholder and order a used one off ebay. I'll let you know how it goes.
    @ m.riech - sorry to hear about all the bad luck you've been having with the EPB. That left one is really giving you a run for your money huh? Stupid question - did your VW dealer run your VIN for recalls? I only ask this because I entered my VIN on the VW's recall website and came up with nothing, but when I went to the dealer to get some new tires, lo and behold - they ran it and found $1,200 worth of recall work to be done - VW South Bay installed my tires and did the recall work (no charge parts and labor on the recall work) all in the same day - may be worthwhile to check out.

    That really sucks the TSB update didn't even work. I wonder WTF is causing this problem? You did everything I would have done in the same scenario. My battery also went dead when I did this - I just removed it, charged it back up, plugged it all back in and cleared the codes one by one in the order of the summary and saved the EPB codes for last - didn't have any issues with it thereafter.

    I noticed the date, milage, count, voltage - everything on your particular fault with the left EPB is reading the same - almost as though the module is 'stuck' on that fault. The only other thing I would consider trying is tricking the EPB Control Module. And this is only a suggestion - maybe try disconnecting the EPB connection at the caliper and running a diagnostic. It should pull up a similar code - only this time, you're intentionally trying to throw a code (as the EPB will have no comms with the unit) see if it gives you a fault with an updated date, milage, etc - if it does, maybe it'll get the control unit 'unstuck'. Power down, reconnect the EPB, rerun the diagnostic - clear the code.

    Keep us updated.

  32. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.2