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B5.5 V6 2.8L Cranks + No Start

11K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  KSEADUB 
#1 ·
2005 B5.5 V6 2.8L Passat Wagon AWD. Automatic Transmission. 130K miles. Not original owner. No service records provided at purchase.
I have novice to intermediate level of automotive repair knowledge. I searched through several threads on this site and others for information related to the crank but, no start issue before I posted here. This is a friend's car and most of my experience is with Japanese cars.

Cranks but, no start issue. Initially (two weeks ago), engine shut off in traffic without warning or CEL light and wouldn't start again. Car towed home. Initially, after towing home and trying to start there is No CEL light and no codes coming up with code reader. The following has been tested/replaced within the past two weeks:

1) No fuel pressure: tested at fuel lines that connect to fuel rail. However, fuel pump engages with ignition on and can hear it audibly. Removed pump, tested with 9v battery and it pumped/flowed well.
Replaced fuel filter and repaired broken vacuum line (very small diameter, very brittle) that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Now fuel at least getting to beginning of fuel rail: checked by loosening connection between fuel line and fuel rail... gas gushed out.
Engine still not starting.

2) Checked spark with Lisle spark tester https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6 and held each spark plug electrode against firewall. Very good spark on all six wires and five of the spark plugs. One spark plug was weak but, not enough to cause a no start issue.

3) Did a compression test but not under optimal conditions. Battery was not fully charged and engine cold.
Dry compression test proceedure used for all six cylinders: Removed all six spark plugs, held gas pedal to floor during cranking, cranked long enough to reach a point that compression needle reached a peak and then kept crank a couple more times past to ensure highest reading. Readings were between 120 to 160 psi. Unfortunately, I didn't have any oil on hand to do a wet compression test.
Spark plugs had normal carbon buildup for mileage. They were not wet with fuel, oil or coolant and no abnormal smell. No signs that it was flooded.

4) Replaced ECT (coolant temp sensor) with an aftermarket (4-wire). I generally diagnose before replacing but, the ECT sensor has come up many times as a possibility for the posted issue. It was only $10 and figured it was worth doing while I had the air intake off. Turned out to be a bit of a challenge to replace due to the metal tubing that is inconveniently above it. My friend did the replacement.

5) Replaced some vacuum lines that literally crumbled at the slightest touch. Not sure why a manufacturer would use such tiny diameter, plastic tubing next to a hot engine and not expect or anticipate them to get brittle. Replaced/intergrated small diameter factory lines with rubber vacuum lines that fit snugly over their outside diameter.

6) RPM gauge moves during cranking which, from what I've read, should rule out a faulty ESS (engine speed sensor/crank position sensor).

7) Performed ECU reset/relearn using this procedure: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/v...cussion/157204-diy-engine-computer-reset.html
Does anyone know if there is another procedure. Does this also align the throttle body?

As of yesterday still cranks but no start. Oil pressure light comes on now when cranking: Read that this is normal for crank no start condition.
EPC light is on. Now, no CEL light but has two fault codes:

P0444: P0444 - OBD II Trouble Code
P0104: P0104 - OBD-II Trouble Code

My assumption is these codes are due to cranking the engine with air intake (includes purge valve and MAF) removed. I also assume these codes can be cleared after engine and will most likely not return after engine starts running. My friend plans on cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF spray and spraying TB cleaner in throttle body just before next starting attempt.

Some threads I've read also suggest a faulty ignition switch as a possibilty. A faulty fuel pressure regulator also comes up as a possibilty.
Unfortunately, we don't have access to a VAG VCDS scanner to expidite this process.
All replies appreciated
 
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#5 ·
the fuel pressure reg is a possibility. the ignition switch is definitely ok if it tries to crank. the two OBDII codes you posted will not prevent the car from starting.

have you verified the timing belt is intact and tight? can you verify the timing marks (on crank and cams) are correctly lined up? I'm thinking if the car is an unknown quantity, the tensioner could have crapped out and you've lost a tooth or two of timing via the belt...?
 
#11 ·
Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with VW's or German cars in general. I assume that a TB alignment is an ECU check that ensures full TB closure and opening... is that correct?

On B5.5 engines does the TB blade control air flow on startups or is there an IACV or similar part that does it?
 
#12 ·
the TB alignment verifies that the TB opens and closes to specific angles.

just out of curiosity, have you checked all of the engine control fuses? fuses 29, 32, and 34 are for engine controls, iirc. don't just visually check them, use an ohmmeter.
 
#13 ·
Thanks.

Based on this link: https://motogurumag.com/i/vw-passat-fuse-box-diagram-RbmsFlh.jpg
Is that fuse panel diagram for North America or European or both? We are in the U.S.

Fuse 29: Engine Control Unit, Cooling Fan. 20 amps
Fuse 32: Engine Control Module (ECM), Cruise control system. 20 amps
Fuse 34: Engine Control Fuel Injectors.

This fuse panel diagram also shows up in searches: fuse.jpg Photo by B5in | Photobucket
However, it doesn't include fuse #34

I didn't check those. My friend checked fuel pump #28 and I told him to check fuse #14 comfort control module (came up as possibility for no start in some threads)
He is following this post but, I will ask him to check too. Ohmeter only or Ohms and voltage check?:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo
 
#14 ·
my first place to check, and it's super easy, is the fuel pump.

pull the carpet back from the trunk, exposing a round 3-screw access cover. pull that off, and BAM. there's your fuel pump.

when someone key-on's the car, does it whirr up and make ANY noise at all?
these cars are supposed to prime themselves ON engine starting, AND sometimes when the doors are unlocked via remote or door open. they're cool like that.

second thing, is throw away all you know about german cars. this isn's a german car problem, this is just a CAR problem. domestics have the SAME style fuel systems, and some chevy's are HORRIBLY engineered, worse than people fear german cars are. pay attention to how the car is put together, and it will all make a very good sense of WHY they did something :)

cars are like people. black, white, asian, whatever. we all get sick with the same bugs. fixes and cures are most often the same regardless of type.
 
#15 ·
my first place to check, and it's super easy, is the fuel pump.
pull the carpet back from the trunk, exposing a round 3-screw access cover. pull that off, and BAM. there's your fuel pump.
when someone key-on's the car, does it whirr up and make ANY noise at all? These cars are supposed to prime themselves ON engine starting, AND sometimes when the doors are unlocked via remote or door open. they're cool like that.
"1) No fuel pressure: tested at fuel lines that connect to fuel rail. However, fuel pump engages with ignition on and can hear it audibly. Removed pump, tested with 9v battery and it pumped/flowed well.
Replaced fuel filter and repaired broken vacuum line (very small diameter, very brittle) that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Now fuel at least getting to beginning of fuel rail: checked by loosening connection between fuel line and fuel rail... gas gushed out.
Engine still not starting."

Thanks for the clarification on feul pump priming.
 
#16 ·
pull your fuel rail off the intake manifold, with the 4 injectors still clipped to the fuel rail, and with one injector plugged in at a time, pointing into a glass jar or some catch vessel, have someone crank the engine looking to see if the injector puffs out a mist as it should, and notate the shape and quality of it's stream/release.

doing this to each cylinder confirms you have the injectors spraying.

note: DO NOT LET ALL 4 INJECTORS SPRAY LOOSE INTO AIR BECAUSE "what's the worst that could happen"!!!
you know what the worst is?

fireball.

i did that.

edit: also, go rent a noid light set. you plug it like a little light bulb into the injector's wire plug, and it flashes as the "injector" is pulsed showing that proper power is getting to the connector. it's more accurate than a DVOM as a DVOM may fluctuate too much to get a proper reading due to duty cycle.
 
#18 ·
pull your fuel rail off the intake manifold, with the 4 injectors still clipped to the fuel rail, and with one injector plugged in at a time, pointing into a glass jar or some catch vessel, have someone crank the engine looking to see if the injector puffs out a mist as it should, and notate the shape and quality of it's stream/release.doing this to each cylinder confirms you have the injectors spraying.
edit: also, go rent a noid light set. you plug it like a little light bulb into the injector's wire plug, and it flashes as the "injector" is pulsed showing that proper power is getting to the connector. it's more accurate than a DVOM as a DVOM may fluctuate too much to get a proper reading due to duty cycle.
Thanks. Will do
Does Autozone rent (free) noid lights?
If, fuel is getting to rail but not into injectors then it should be either a) blown fuel injector fuse (if, there is one) or b) fuel pressure regulator malfunction ?
 
#19 ·
I can't take a thread serously when it was started by someone calling themself "a very large pile of sh!t".

In case you are legit, I suggest you do the fuel rail pressure test.
This can be done with the engine not running, to prove whether or not the fuel pump or regulator is causing the no start issue.
 
#23 ·
He replaced all suggested fuses (without voltage testing) and no change. He tested pressure at fuel lines/begginng of fuel rail junction that I mentioned in my initial post. There was flow no flow two weeks ago when testing with a pressure gauge. A few days later he replaced the fuel filter and got flow to fuel rail (but, not pressure tested). Today tested with and without gauge and got zero flow. So, fuel pump is doing what most failing fuel pumps do.. they become intermittent and at times when they do work the flow is weak. He said he can tap on it and it get it to work. He plans to replace the fuel pump soon and hopefully it'll start. I'll post after replacement.
 
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