Need help with Code P1565
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  1. #1
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    Need help with Code P1565

    I'm having problems with my 98 Passat wagon 1.8T AEP(173,000 miles). Car was setting in driveway with cold engine. I started it and pulled it into garage- run time was about 7 seconds. The next morning it took around 15 seconds of cracking before engine stumbled to life. Lots of exhaust smoke and smell of unburnt fuel. CEL stayed lit after engine started and has been lit for about 3 weeks now. Engine runs a bit rough when coming off throttle.

    I just got fault codes read at Advance Auto Parts:
    P1565 Manf Cntrl Veh.Spd. Idle Speed Control Auxiliary Inputs

    This happened once before but CEL and rough running healed after about 1 week.

    None of the other P1565 threads mentioned this text.

    Thanks in advance for help.

    Dave

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  3. #2
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    I would check for vacuum and boost leaks, considering your high mileage. The good news, the AEB doesn't have anywhere near the number of vacuum hoses as the newer cars. There are a couple of 3.5mm lines at the top of the engine and there are some larger lines with check valves under the intake manifold.

    Also, after verifying that you don't have any air leaks or fixing any that you find, run a throttle body adaptation with VAG-COM. Set block 60 to basic settings. Your car is probably running rough because it is trying to compensate for a vacuum leak. It probably can't compensate any further.

    The other possibility is a bad or intermittant electrical connection between the throttle body connector and the engine control unit (ECU).

    -Mark

  4. #3
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    Thanks Mark,
    I plan to pull the intake manifold off this weekend to investigate. I have a chronic oil leak that appears to be originating from PCV area. I did fix up 2
    cracked vacuum lines with hi temp silicone tubing per a nice forum write up about a year ago. That resolved a CEL fault back then.
    Regarding VAG COM, my son's looking to go halves with me on software, he's got a new GTI on order. I assume VAG COM and 1 connector would fit both cars plus my wife's 05 Jetta?

    Best Regards,
    Dave

  5. #4
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    If you pull the manifold, get a new gasket. Also, it makes changing any PCV hosing/valves easier.

    Also, just so you know, you don't need to remove the intake manifold to replace the check valves and hoses under the manifold. I would also look at the hoses that come off of and go to the EVAP purge valve on top of the airbox. Its the thingy that clicks while the car is running. Oh yeah, and the y-shaped hose at the purge value also...

    -Mark

  6. #5
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    Yes, the VAG-COM will work on all of your cars. Just make sure to get the version that supports the CAN bus.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by c087952 View Post
    . Car was setting in driveway with cold engine. I started it and pulled it into garage- run time was about 7 seconds. The next morning it took around 15 seconds of cracking before engine stumbled to life. Lots of exhaust smoke and smell of unburnt fuel.
    This is a well known "feature" of the 1.8T.
    Mine does it and I have read many reports in the forums.
    Looks like you have another problem.

  8. #7
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    Mark,

    I planned to pull intake manifold, clean all exposed parts, assess what needs replaced, re-install manifold, order PCV, check valves, and necessary hoses that need replaced, then pull manifold off again when I get parts.

    Can I re use manifold gasket during the exploratory stage, then replace it when I change out the PCV items?

    Regards,
    Dave

  9. #8
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    I wouldn't even bother removing the manifold/gasket unless you plan to change the stuff under there. Just order the parts and replace them. Pull the manifold once. The parts aren't that expensive. The check valves are like $10 a piece. The silicone hose is cheap, and I don't think the PCV parts totalled more than $50-60.

    For PCV, there's a plastic hose that attaches to the side of the engine block. This attaches to a T-shaped hose that the PCV valve plugs into. The other branch attaches to a hard metal line that runs through the "PCV puck" and into the air intake hose between the airbox and turbo. A rubber hose goes from the PCV to the underside of the intake manifold. Here you need the factory part because the ID of one end is larger than the other (thanks VW).

    There are also a few other vacuum lines under the intake manifold. I believe there are 3-4 black/grey check valves. I just replaced the hoses between the check valves etc with silicone hose. It is a larger diameter than the the 3.5mm used on the top of the manifold. I don't remember exactly the size that I bought.

    There is a diagram on the front of the engine bay that shows all the air and vacuum connections in the engine. It might be helpful.

    I wouldn't bother with pulling the manifold until you have the parts to do the swap, if this is what you're planning anyway. Just wait and do it all at once. I don't think the parts would be more than $100-125 for the whole job, inluding a new intake manifold gasket.

    -Mark

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