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AWM Timing Belt Parts and Tools List Question

2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  2002GLXV6 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Been awhile. My Passat is no longer my daily (b/c of needing the TB change and unresolved odd braking issues noted in other threads). Been spending more time in my "new to me" 06 Jetta TDI BRM DSG for Fuel Economy. However, I want to get the Passat back ready since it is nicer to drive and I may have some unexpected immediate maintenance that would take down the Jetta BRM and force me to rely on the Passat.

Anyway, I looked at other threads regarding timing belt parts, kits, and tools. However, much has seemed to have changed. The one thing that I'm solid on is getting quality parts and that seems to rule out Blauparts kits. SO I could use some parts on the needed parts and necessary tools for the job.

Here's what I think I need:
Parts:
1.Timing Belt (Conti or OEM Gates) Any Ideal Why there are two OEM listed Timing Belts for AWM on ECS Tuning? I see one is the gates belt and is revision A and the other looks like Continental and is rev F.
2.Water Pump (Metal Impeller.. probs splurge for HEPU but maybe GEBA)
3.Timing Belt Tensioner with Idle Roller (NTN)
4.Timing Belt Tensioner Roller (NTN)
5.T-Stat w/ Oring (recently changed mine so might not replace it and only replace the O-Ring after I pull it to replace the coolant)


Tools:
1.Crank and Cam Lock? (Not sure where to buy or rent from)
-Something to bar the engine over with (Probs Socketed Breaker Bar)
-Any others?
 
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#2 ·
1.Timing Belt (Conti or OEM Gates) Any Ideal Why there are two OEM listed Timing Belts for AWM on ECS Tuning? I see one is the gates belt and is revision A and the other looks like Continental and is rev F.
You want the "F" suffix belt for an AWM.


Tools:
1.Crank and Cam Lock? (Not sure where to buy or rent from)
-Something to bar the engine over with (Probs Socketed Breaker Bar)
-Any others?
I think you may be confusing the V6 procedures and tools with the 1.8T.
You do not need/use the crank lock or a cam lock on the 1.8T

No need for a breaker bar to turn the engine. A regular socket ratchet will work just fine, especially if you take the spark plugs out.

A torque wrench would be good if you don't already have one. Actually, I like having one in Inch pounds and one in Foot pounds. The Inch pound torque wrench is better (more accurate) for low torque bolts 7ftlbs as an example than a foot pound wrench will be.

And a Flex Head ratchet is nice to have to keep your knuckles away from other engine parts. If you want to add to your collection of tools, and who doesn't want to do that.
 
#3 ·
The AWM lower timing belt cover (like AEBs) likely still has 3 or 4 different types of fasteners-one of which is nearly hidden ;) (10mm bolt, 5mm and 6mm allen head, and a Philips head screw, IIRC). Nothing drives up that labor rate like unnecessarily varying fastener types so the tech will need to change tools three times to remove a cover. :crazy:

Upper timing mark is on cam pulley (align with cyl. head); lower timing mark is likely still on outer crank pulley and a mark on lower timing belt cover. With a slightly stretched (~5-6 mm longer) belt, the cam timing mark will not align perfect when the crank timing mark is aligned.

Use white out to mark both crank and cam pulleys before removing the old belt (two locations); then transfer white out marks to new belt then install.

After you're through, pull the plugs and slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise (while listening) for two full turns to check valve piston clearance.
 
#4 ·
You probably also want to replace the A/C belt and serp belt while you are in there; they don't really last any longer than the timing belt. While the consequences of failure are less-catastrophic, it's still a PITA, and the parts are cheap.
 
#5 ·
Water Pump (Metal Impeller.. probs splurge for HEPU but maybe GEBA)

Tools:
1.Crank and Cam Lock? (Not sure where to buy or rent from)
-Something to bar the engine over with (Probs Socketed Breaker Bar)
-Any others?

Before you pull the trigger on the GEBA water pump check out this link from AZ. It seems like there are several long time members reporting premature failures with the GEBA pumps. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=615555

It sucks because I used the ECS kit over the summer and did mine with the GEBA pump.

Also check out this article at blauparts they go into serious detail to explain why the plastic impeller pump may be the best choice. http://www.blauparts.com/audi_water..._water_pump_plastic_impeller_controversy.html

With respect to your tool question I don't think you need any clamps or holders for the sprockets. If you are lined up at TDC you can remove the old belt and install the new one without moving the crank or cam sprocket until you are ready to turn the engine over by hand.

Were you thinking about replacing the crank or cam seals? If so then you will need them.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I do have standard VW tools which includes the triple squares.... and the whole assortment of torque wrenches of DIY quality. Don't have a vice or a work bench at the moment though. My workbench is the top of my garbage can.

I wasn't planning on removing the spark plugs since I don't have a coil pack puller. Not familiar enough and haven't researched it to determine if I can get them off the AWM without damaging them not using the tool. I've replaced the Serptine belt recently. Changed the Alternator-belt tensioner too. Bought the AC belt tensioner, didn't replace it and regretted it immediately so I'll install that when I do this belt. I do not plan on doing the cam or crank seals at this time. If I open it all up and it's leaking bad then I'll order them. Not too time constrained on repairs now that I own two VW problems. (Although the AWM hasn't been too much trouble, it's just aging now)

I was leaning towards the HEPU water pump. Thanks for the link and warning of early failures. Thanks for the video too on plastic WP. I'll look at that again. Was worried about cavitation and corrosion after the coolant starts breaking down and the difference in design that is very apparent in GEBA pump. I'm also going to be leak checking the coolant system at this time because there is an air leak, but doesn't seem to be leaking actual coolant.

Do I need anything to set the timing belt tensioner?
 
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