Rear window reinstall problems, STUCK!

[birdman829]

Hey all, I removed the rear door panel to troubleshoot my locking issues today. I used this thread: Need help with stubborn / stuck window retaining pin as a guide and had no real issues with the process...That is until i put it all back together and realized that the window gets stuck halfway up! I checked to make sure it moved before reinstalling the door panel but didn't move it far enough to catch the problem until the panel was all back together What could I have done wrong? It seems to be in its track just fine, maybe the plastic dowel pin is too far to one side of the glass and is catching?

[LineInTheWater]

Hey all, I removed the rear door panel to troubleshoot my locking issues today. I used this thread: Need help with stubborn / stuck window retaining pin as a guide and had no real issues with the process...That is until i put it all back together and realized that the window gets stuck halfway up! I checked to make sure it moved before reinstalling the door panel but didn't move it far enough to catch the problem until the panel was all back together What could I have done wrong? It seems to be in its track just fine, maybe the plastic dowel pin is too far to one side of the glass and is catching?

How did you re-install the dowel?

Pulling the panel is pretty easy, if you use a putty knife and a screwdriver to support it. I've become an expert at it!

In fact, I learned a trick the other day, to speed things up: use the putty knife to get the initial trim off to the two bolts. A screwdriver is very difficult to use, and tends to mar the trim. The putty knife applies nice even force and takes 5 secs! Stick it in a paper towel, insert in the center, and POP!

[birdman829]

The "factory method" I think. I installed it in the window glass, then guided the window down and pushed it into the clip. It had a nice audible click and felt well seated in the clip to me. The only thing I can think of is that the dowel is too far in or out and is catching on something. I didn't really take note of exactly how the dowel was oriented before I messed with it. I did try having a helper push the switch while I was giving the window a tug but it seems to be catching on something pretty solid and the motor stops. It then has to go down before going up again which I assume is a safety feature? I don't think brute force will be the answer Time to pull it all apart again and mess around with it...

BTW I linked to the wrong thread. I believe your thread is the one I meant to link to. Driving out the inner pin with a ball-peen and a punch had me pretty nervous but it worked just like you said Thanks for the write-up and the pictures

[LineInTheWater]

The "factory method" I think. I installed it in the window glass, then guided the window down and pushed it into the clip. It had a nice audible click and felt well seated in the clip to me. The only thing I can think of is that the dowel is too far in or out and is catching on something. I didn't really take note of exactly how the dowel was oriented before I messed with it. I did try having a helper push the switch while I was giving the window a tug but it seems to be catching on something pretty solid and the motor stops. It then has to go down before going up again which I assume is a safety feature? I don't think brute force will be the answer Time to pull it all apart again and mess around with it...

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with it until you get that panel off and hopefully get an eye on it. I empathize. I opened my front door, and closed it, and opened it, and closed it, and opened it, and closed it, all the other day! Nothing like having to re-do a repair 3x.

Are you sure you re-installed the locking mechanism properly? (I assumed you removed it from the panel?)

[birdman829]

I never actually did remove the lock mechanism from the sheetmetal panel, only from the door skin. I'm going to end up replacing the whole module rather than trying to solder it. My skills and iron aren't up to snuff I'm afraid. The door does latch and open and close just fine though. I have a wagon and the window can travel from its "down" position (3 or 4" glass exposed) upwards about 4 or 5" before stopping.

[LineInTheWater]

I never actually did remove the lock mechanism from the sheetmetal panel, only from the door skin. I'm going to end up replacing the whole module rather than trying to solder it. My skills and iron aren't up to snuff I'm afraid. The door does latch and open and close just fine though. I have a wagon and the window can travel from its "down" position (3 or 4" glass exposed) upwards about 4 or 5" before stopping.

The soldering is the easiest part of the entire job (by far). It's a good excuse to get a decent iron.

[vbora01]

The CORRECT way to replace the rear window dowels.

This will come in handy

[birdman829]

Success. Dowel was never the issue. Took the whole thing back apart and couldn't get the regulator to move even with nothing attached. Kept stopping like it was blocked. Figured out I could override it with the key in the drivers door. Got it to roll up. When using the switch in the back door it goes down and sometimes goes up, sometimes doesn't now. Key in door it goes up and down perfectly. Not sure exactly what its problem is. Good enough for the back window

[LineInTheWater]

Success. Dowel was never the issue. Took the whole thing back apart and couldn't get the regulator to move even with nothing attached. Kept stopping like it was blocked. Figured out I could override it with the key in the drivers door. Got it to roll up. When using the switch in the back door it goes down and sometimes goes up, sometimes doesn't now. Key in door it goes up and down perfectly. Not sure exactly what its problem is. Good enough for the back window

It does this when just using the switch on the rear door? Or does it also do it when using the rear door window switch on the driver's door master switch?

If it's just the rear switch that's causing the problem, maybe the electrical connector or cable that you reconnected to door panel got yanked or stressed?? I would pull the panel and inspect the connector, and try to re-seat it.

[birdman829]

It does this when just using the switch on the rear door? Or does it also do it when using the rear door window switch on the driver's door master switch?

If it's just the rear switch that's causing the problem, maybe the electrical connector or cable that you reconnected to door panel got yanked or stressed?? I would pull the panel and inspect the connector, and try to re-seat it.

Driver door or rear door. Seems like it thinks theres too much resistance so it stops the motor. Other times it goes up ok. It goes up every time with the key in the lock trick though.

[LineInTheWater]

Driver door or rear door. Seems like it thinks theres too much resistance so it stops the motor. Other times it goes up ok. It goes up every time with the key in the lock trick though.

That's odd - the key works fine, but both switches don't. They should be on the same actuator circuit. Could it be that the large connector (the one that has a sliding lock mechanism) didn't completely seat? So the motor sounds strained before it stops? Does the window always stop at the same spot (same height in the door frame)? Just trying to figure out if it's electrical or mechanical.

I'm sure most PWers know a heck of a lot more about the doors, but I'm just asking the questions that come to mind.

[birdman829]

My bad, I'm not explaining it correctly. The switches aren't the issue as far as I can tell. The window always goes down. Sometimes, while using either door switch the window will not go up, other times it will. When it fails to go up, it does move an inch or two before stopping. At this point you have to go back down before it will be able to go up again (and stop at the same point). I think this is the "pinch protection" feature. It detects a load and thinks something is blocking the path so it cuts off.

Lifting and lowering the window manually in its track there is a bit of resistance but its not gritty or anything like something is in the track. I found from searching around that when using the key in the lock cylinder to roll up or down windows the "pinch protection" is disabled. This allows the motor to power through whatever obstacle seems to be stopping it the rest of the time.

My conclusion is that the track (either at the window edges, or where the window clip glides) is a bit warped or not lubed well or something. Since it doesn't stop all the time I think this resistance is fairly close to the threshold allowed by the "pinch protection". Since the key lock trick is a reliable workaround and its just one rear window, I'm fine with it. It does seem to work reliably when rolling it up and down halfway or so. It only gets dicey near the bottom of its travel.

EDIT: One possibility I just thought of is that the sheetmetal insert got warped a bit during removal. That gasket is damn sticky Maybe the cable pulleys and coil aren't quite lined up as nicely as they should be?

[LineInTheWater]

My bad, I'm not explaining it correctly. The switches aren't the issue as far as I can tell. The window always goes down. Sometimes, while using either door switch the window will not go up, other times it will. When it fails to go up, it does move an inch or two before stopping. At this point you have to go back down before it will be able to go up again (and stop at the same point). I think this is the "pinch protection" feature. It detects a load and thinks something is blocking the path so it cuts off.

Lifting and lowering the window manually in its track there is a bit of resistance but its not gritty or anything like something is in the track. I found from searching around that when using the key in the lock cylinder to roll up or down windows the "pinch protection" is disabled. This allows the motor to power through whatever obstacle seems to be stopping it the rest of the time.

My conclusion is that the track (either at the window edges, or where the window clip glides) is a bit warped or not lubed well or something. Since it doesn't stop all the time I think this resistance is fairly close to the threshold allowed by the "pinch protection". Since the key lock trick is a reliable workaround and its just one rear window, I'm fine with it. It does seem to work reliably when rolling it up and down halfway or so. It only gets dicey near the bottom of its travel.

EDIT: One possibility I just thought of is that the sheetmetal insert got warped a bit during removal. That gasket is damn sticky Maybe the cable pulleys and coil aren't quite lined up as nicely as they should be?

I believe it's recommended to lube the track/gasket on the side of the window frame? - do some searching. I can't remember what type of lube you should use, however. It may be old and just barely triggering the pinch protection. The good news is you can try it without removing the panel.

And yes, that factory gasket between the regulator panel and the door frame is a PAIN to remove - and it does tend to get slightly warped. This can cause even larger problems, as it prevents the gasket from creating a water tight seal. Make sure you water-test your door with a hose before calling it finished.

[birdman829]

And yes, that factory gasket between the regulator panel and the door frame is a PAIN to remove - and it does tend to get slightly warped. This can cause even larger problems, as it prevents the gasket from creating a water tight seal. Make sure you water-test your door with a hose before calling it finished.

Heat gun worked wonders for me with reapplying the regulator panel. Warmed the gasket right up and made it nice and tacky. I'll look into lubing the side tracks at some point too. Thanks for your help on this.

[LineInTheWater]

Heat gun worked wonders for me with reapplying the regulator panel. Warmed the gasket right up and made it nice and tacky. I'll look into lubing the side tracks at some point too. Thanks for your help on this.

I don't know what help I was ... just random bits of info. I think you answered your own question(s).

Thanks for the heat gun suggestion - I'll keep that in mind the next (inevitable) time I'm battling the door panel.