1999 Passat 1.8T throttle body error
NEWS
 

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12

    1999 Passat 1.8T throttle body error

    My 1999 passat 1.8 Turbo started having rough idle, the engine running at 520 rpm while idling and eventually have a check engine light. I took to the mechanic and they scanned and said codes p1545 and 1565. They said I need to change the throttle body. They arranged a used one and fitted it and that also gave the same error code, and they tried to erase the code and it doesn,t get erased. They said it might be the wiring and checked all the wiring and everything seems ok. As I was not happy with their diagnosis I took it back. I bought a brand new throttle body for $626 from the dealer and fitted it in and used ross- tech vag to erase the code and do the adaptation. I couldn,t erase the codes. It is stubborn. It stays there. Please help me guys....

  2. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Super Stealth Retired Moderator JayTheSnork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Waterford CT USA
    Posts
    26,880
    Blog Entries
    4
    does it run normal now? when you said you used Ross Tech VAG-COM software, did you pay for it and do you have the correct cable? if you have not, you can not erase the codes.

    by the way, open your User CP and put your location in, as well as the year and engine of your Passat.

  4. #3
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    I have the ross-tech 409.1 software which I paid $99 for the licensing. I have a third party cable, which works fine. I had erased codes earlier with that. My vehicle is 199 passat with AEB engine code. I have read some posts which has similiar symptoms saying that the battery voltage must be low. My battery is 6yrs old and orignial volkswagen/ audi battery. I never ever had starting problem. I dont know whether I should suspect the battery

  5. #4
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by JayTheSnork View Post
    does it run normal now? when you said you used Ross Tech VAG-COM software, did you pay for it and do you have the correct cable? if you have not, you can not erase the codes.

    by the way, open your User CP and put your location in, as well as the year and engine of your Passat.

    It just runs the same rpm with new throttle body. There is no difference in engine running with the new one. I have already updated the location and year of the engine in the user CP

  6. #5
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    7
    Jeeth,

    Info only:

    Just bought a new Throttle body from an e-Bay vendor for $275 with free shipping.Made by VDO in Mexico. 1.8 AEB MOTOR, However it did not solve the problem as I do not and cant locate a Vag Com scanner from a nearby person. Feeble attempts to 'align' it via the key have failed.

  7. #6
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    326
    I'd start with battery, 6 years is very long life for a battery. It's obviously not the TB since it's been replaced twice.

  8. #7
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12

    Throttle body error update..

    This is an update of the developments. I just changed the battery to new one. Also I replaced the throttle body with a brand new one. Try to do the adaptation. I could n't erase the codes. P1545 and P1565 stays there.
    The only improvement I could notice was that the idling RPM at park position is 840 which is normal, but when I put it to drive the RPM reduces to 580.
    I checked the connector to the throttle body and the voltages are as per specification in the bentley manual. I am stuck here.
    I dont know what to try next. Is it the problem with the ECM? Previously I checked with a Volkswagen mechanic and they said it is the throttle body.
    I haven't tried removing the battery cable and shorting it together so that some residual current get cleared. I dont know if it is a safe procedure. Right now I am thinking it might something to do with the ECM. I have no clue how much does it cost and the procedure to replace it. Someone please help me...

  9. #8
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    326
    I assume the key is turned to "on" and the engine is "not running" when you clear the codes...

  10. #9
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    yes.. the key is turned on and the engine is not running..

  11. #10
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    is there anyone in toronto who could help me or is there a good mechanic that I could take my vehicle to in toronto..

  12. #11
    MJ
    MJ is offline
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Templeton, CA USA
    Posts
    148
    I've had throttle body issues before. I suspected the wiring as the culprit and went to find the broken wire(s). During my initial continuity tests I found 2 wires with resistance out of spec. However each subsequent check on those wires the resistance dropped lower and lower. I realized I was 'cleaning' the contacts in the harness connector and correcting the problem. I used a flattened bit of solid core copper wire to knock / scrape any corrosion / foreign matter out of the terminal. That seems to have fixed my problem, as I would get CELs daily with fluctuating idle or idiling at 1400 rpm, but I haven't had a CEL since my cleaning procedure. I throw this out there as another possibilty. Also, If you use dielectric grease use it sparingly on the rubber seal only and keep it off the contacts. It seems to 'gum up' and was part of my problems. I also cleaned the male contacts on the TB with rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab.

    As for codes, they should all clear with the engine off. Do they return when the engine runs?

  13. #12
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Middletown, CT
    Posts
    503
    To use the "battery cable short" method to clear the ECU, disconnect both cables, count 15 seconds, then short the cables together to drain the residual voltage. That should reset everything for another try. I would do that after you cleared the codes.

    Maybe try the TB adaptation after that. As far as ECM replacement, for the AEB it's an easy swap of the board. Maybe you can find someone with a spare board, like someone who got another board chipped and has the stocker laying around. I have 3 boards myself, but I'm not near you. I've seen ECU's for cheap, under $75 on ebay.

    That said, if you idle is good until you put it in gear, maybe something to do with the tip? I have a stick, so I can't help there.

  14. #13
    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Age
    51
    Posts
    14,564
    The trans is probably not the problem. When the ECM sees the RPM drop from the added load of going into gear, it's supposed to adjust the throttle plate accordingly to maintain the set idle RPM.

    When you do the TB adaption via vag-com, can you see any movement or hear any noises at the throttle body? If you're quiet, you should be able to hear the throttle body making sounds as it moves during the adaption. Does vag-com tell you "Adapt OK" when it finishes?

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/...ment_%28TBA%29

    P1545 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
    Possible Symptoms
    * Increased Idle Speed
    * Bucking at Load Change

    Possible Causes
    * Throttle Body dirty
    * Throttle Body Wiring faulty
    * Throttle Body faulty

    Possible Solutions
    * Clean Throttle Body
    * Check Throttle Body Wiring
    * Check Throttle Body

    Special Notes
    * Use Meas. Blocks & Basic Setting for testing


    P1565 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached
    Possible Symptoms
    * Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

    Possible Causes
    * Throttle Actuator (J338) dirty (carbonized)
    * Throttle Actuator (J338) faulty

    Possible Solutions
    * Check/Clean Throttle Actuator (J338)

    That second code makes me wonder if something is binding or not assembled properly at the throttle body. Could be a gasket sticking into the space the butterfly plate needs to move through. Could be a throttle cable or cruise linkage broken or connected improperly. Just something worth checking.

    As you now, the wireing harness and the ECM could also be at fault.

  15. #14
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    There is no noise from the throttle body when I try do adaptation. Please note that the throttle body is brand new. And since I couldn't erase the codes (p1565 and p1545) I tried doing the adaptation with the fault codes.
    I checked the wiring harness for continuity and short. Those seems fine. Next thing was the ecm. But I could n't suspect it because the communication with ecm is good.
    The only thing I recently found was the oxygen sensors, The readings with vag-com is not satisfactory. But I unplugged the oxygen sensor (both of them ) still the ecm doesn't show any error. Do you think I should go swapping the ecm. I haven't done it before. I have heard that we have to go to the dealer for immobilizer adaptation.
    I dont know whether I need it or how much does it cost. Is that possible we could do it with vag-com?

    Also I noticed that when I start the engine cold the rpm at idle is around 580 and it goes to 840 gradually when it is warm within 3 to 4 minutes. At this point when I put it so drive it drops to 580. The rpm is steady not fluctuating. Is that because of the oxygen sensor? When I unplug the oxygen sensor why the ecm does not throw any code? Is the culprit the ecm itself?

    Thanks for the help guys

  16. #15
    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Age
    51
    Posts
    14,564
    I'd think you'd be getting codes for no O2 sensors. I'm not sure when the ECM starts using the O2 data. It may not use them right at startup. They may need to get hot first, but I don't know this for a fact.

    Sounds to me like the ECM needs to be investigated further.
    Last edited by Steve in Chicago; 07-27-2009 at 06:12 PM.

  17. #16
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
    326
    He can't do the adaptation until he clears the fault codes. And he hasn't been able to clear the codes even with the engine off. That's what's baffling.

    I would go ahead and try shorting the battery cables together as a previous poster described.

  18. #17
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Wilmington MA USA
    Posts
    293
    Make sure you disconnect the cables from the battery first. Then you can touch the cables together. Keep the battery out of it.

  19. #18
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    I have tried taking out the battery cables and touching them together for about 30 seconds. After I hooked up vag-com, still the same error codes, p1545 and p1565.
    There is no noise from the throttle body, when I turn the ignition key or try to do an adaptation. For some reason I couldn't get the codes erased. I checked the MAF sensor cleaned it up throughly replaced air filter, checked the MAF readings in the vag-com, everything seems fine. The idling at parking is 580 when the engine is cold and gradually goes to 840 when the engine is warm. When I put it to drive, it drops to 580, but remains steady.

    Is there anything likely that I should check?

    Thank you guys..

  20. #19
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Middletown, CT
    Posts
    503
    Did you wait the 15 seconds before touching the cables together? That step was needed for my codes to clear and get rid of all readiness codes. After that, I don't know why it would still retain codes?

    If you can't sucessfully clear codes, you can take it to the dealer and have them check it and clear codes. Call them for a quote. They'll charge you an hour labor, but it may be worth it if they can find something wrong. Don't do this if you're chipped, thay might re-flash the ECU.

    If you clean the TB, be very careful not to remove the silicone coating that helps the throttle plate seal. Use a "electonics safe" type spray cleaner.

    Note: the AEB engine was the first ultra-low emission turbo engine. The cat is lit off after only 12 seconds from cold start, then the O2 sensors should signal the ECU. If your idle is taking a long time to stabilize, something is wrong there. Maybe clogged injectors or cat?

    Is your ICM original? A fluky ICM will make the ECU appear bad, but usually throws codes for bad coil packs. Since the ICM is cheap ($50 or so on ebay) try swapping that. Weak link in the AEB.

  21. #20
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    I did not wait 15 seconds before touching the cables together. But I held both cables together for
    30 seconds. The engine control module is oringinal not chipped. The ICM was replaced with the brand BERU about a year ago, along with a ignition coil. Do you think anything wrong with the fuel injection should throw of code for throttle body malfunction error. When I use vag-com and click the readiness tab, the oxygen sensor heating, the oxygen sensors, and the catalytic convertors I get the message failed. Should I consider that for bad oxygen sensors.
    But I passed my emissions a month ago.

    When the engine is heating to its normal operating temperatures the idling at P is 840 goes to 920 rpm and fluctuates slightly . Is that something to do with the oxygen sensors?

    Thanks you guys....

  22. #21
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Middletown, CT
    Posts
    503
    The feedback loop to the ECU is all related. Poor fueling, either too much or too little, or a bad fuel spray pattern form clogged or dirty injectors will also affect the emissions, hence the cat and O2 sensors.

    If it's been running rich for long enough, or bad gas, then the O2 sensors and cat take the brunt of it. The cat can overheat and pores clog, or even melt or fracture, then your emissions will not show good until both the cat and O2 sensors are replaced, or the O2 sensors are pulled out of the exhaust stream (but not removed all together or unplugged). That's why O2 sensor spacers are often used with higher output turbos, to satisfy the ECU feedback loop.

    Maybe the least painful thing is to pull the O2 sensor(s) and see what shape they're in?

  23. #22
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    51
    when me and my dad did put in a new engine into our 99 AEB Passat, upon starting it for the first time we had that idle issue too. If you just clean the throttle body device it should fix your issues, try that before buying a new or used one.

  24. #23
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    PA, PA
    Posts
    82
    If someone here knows about the DBC TB's Please explain the following:
    1 Does the TB on the DBC cars constantly adapt during driving or does it get 'set' with an adaption and the ecu remembers where the TB is. I also have a hard time believing that my TB just is DEAD after disconnecting the Batt when it ran like a top before .

    2. Does anyone have Ohm readings per FSM to check if the TB is within range? i am suffering the same issues as everyone here and would like to Ohm the TB harness and ecu to make sure i am not spending $500+ for no reason...

  25. #24
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    12
    Throttle body error! Problem Solved..

    Finally settled the throttle body problem. I swapped the engine control module with an exact same used one, and the adaptation is OK, and everything works
    perfect. The idling is excellent. No Fault codes. The used engine control module
    8D0 907 557P cost me $75. Works Excellent!.. Thank you all guys! There was no issue with the immobilizer.

  26. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.2