1998 Passat Rear Brakes
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  1. #1
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    1998 Passat Rear Brakes

    I'm trying to change the pads and rotors on my 1998 passat for the first time, and am looking for some step by step guidence on procedure. I found a tread w/ pictures and proper procedure, but it was for front brakes. Any advise?
    Last edited by Christopher Haltigan; 10-29-2008 at 07:32 AM. Reason: spelling

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  3. #2
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    Brake pad and rotor replacement

    Next time check out the info forum first. The rear write up is at the end of this post above. Rent or buy the caliper tool.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Parish View Post
    Brake pad and rotor replacement

    Next time check out the info forum first. The rear write up is at the end of this post above. Rent or buy or make the caliper tool.
    Fixed!

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    Thanks Tom. I'm new to this so I appreciate the information.

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    I have the assembly apart and the piston (rear passanger side) looks very worn ( bare metal ). Should I change the piston assembly?

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    Do you have any way to post a pic of what "very worn" looks like?

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    As it turns out, believe it or not, I was missing the inside brake pad all together! The piston was riding the back of the rotor with nothing in between. so consequently, it chewed the piston up pretty good. Obviously I need to change the rotor ( I'll do both sides ), but I think I can file the face of the piston down to acceptable shape. It really isn't that bad. Having a break pad between the piston and rotor should make a world of difference. JEEZ, DO YOU THINK?!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Haltigan View Post
    As it turns out, believe it or not, I was missing the inside brake pad all together! The piston was riding the back of the rotor with nothing in between. so consequently, it chewed the piston up pretty good. Obviously I need to change the rotor ( I'll do both sides ), but I think I can file the face of the piston down to acceptable shape. It really isn't that bad. Having a break pad between the piston and rotor should make a world of difference. JEEZ, DO YOU THINK?!!!!
    Been there, done that. (Actually, my problem was a severely worn inside pad that failed and took out the piston altogether) REPLACE THE CALIPER!

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    Don't forget the open the cap on the brake reservoir before retracting the piston.

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    I learned all of this the hard way... And a C-Clamp, coupled with a chisel and hammer, was my piston tool.

    At least I had full pads, though. OUCH!

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    Can't thank you guys enough. My local Auto zone had the right tool. They ran my credit card for $55. bucks, but I get it back when I return it. Does the piston need to sit flush with the housing when I back it down, or do I just need to back it down "enough" ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Haltigan View Post
    Can't thank you guys enough. My local Auto zone had the right tool. They ran my credit card for $55. bucks, but I get it back when I return it. Does the piston need to sit flush with the housing when I back it down, or do I just need to back it down "enough" ?
    "enough"

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    Is there any real problem mixing dot 3 brake fluid with dot 4?

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    Not recommended. DOT 3 And DOT 4 fluids are chemically different.

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    Thanks Chris

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    I'm reasonably sure I followed the directions in the post to the letter. All went back together as stated. However pumping the brakes failed to get them "pumped up". I live in a rural area so I test drove the car. I don't think the back brakes are working at all. The pistons seem to have advanced normally and positioned themselves against the inside pads. The brake fluid resevoir was low, so I topped it off. Any suggestions as to where to begin looking? Nothing seems to be leaking.

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    did u bleed the breaks?

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    Uh, no...............

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    You normally don't need to bleed the brakes after a brake job as long as the hydraulic system is not opened up, such as opening the caliper bleeder bolt. You said you pumped the brakes - do you feel normal pedal resistance when you step on it, or does the pedal go to the floor with almost no resistance? If the latter, bleed the brakes. You should be able to raise one of the rear wheels so you can turn the wheel by hand. Have a helper step on the brake pedal - does it prevent you from being able to turn the wheel?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris30vB5.5 View Post
    Not recommended. DOT 3 And DOT 4 fluids are chemically different.
    They're not THAT chemically different. They will mix fine, but you should not use DoT-3 in a DoT-4 only application, but you can use DoT-4 in a DoT-3 application. The main difference between them is the wet and dry boiling points.

    That said:

    If you had the caliper piston riding the rotor, replace the caliper and rotor. The piston is not designed to take that kind of heat stress from being metal on metal, and will probably fail soon.

    Now, I'm assuming that he did the right thing and replaced the caliper. It sounds to me from his description that there's air in the lines. If the caliper was removed, and the new one not put in right away, the brake fluid will have drained from that circuit.

    When I replace a caliper, I usually try to do it this way. I generally bleed out the caliper by opening the bleeder screw 1/2 turn and tapping the housing gently with a wrench to loosen any bubbles, and watch the brake fluid fill a looped up hose until bubbles stop coming out of it. I usually can do a caliper alone, without the need to pump up a brake pedal.

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    I just wanted to say thanks to all of you that responded to me. All of you gave me great advise that without, I would never have gotten through this. I'm not the most mechanical guy in the world. But, thanks to all of you the job is complete and all is well. I have to do a timing chain soon, I wonder....................

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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Haltigan View Post
    I just wanted to say thanks to all of you that responded to me. All of you gave me great advise that without, I would never have gotten through this. I'm not the most mechanical guy in the world. But, thanks to all of you the job is complete and all is well. I have to do a timing belt soon, I wonder....................
    Fixed it for ya!

    And yes, you can do it yourself. It just takes a little time to be careful and read the book...

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