Brake bleeding
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Thread: Brake bleeding

  1. #1
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    Brake bleeding

    Good morning folks.

    I replaced my front brake pads on my 02 last night and I have a issue. The driver's side bleeder was not closed completely when I took a break for dinner and about a cup of fluid drained out, being replaced with air. I have bleed the brakes three times, twice with a power bleeder and once via the pump, open bleeder, close bleeder and repeat method but I still have a mushy pedal.

    I was able to seat the pads and even did a panic stop this morning on the freeway for a box that feel off a truck so the brakes work well, they are just mushy.

    Any hints like elevating the front of the car, sacrificing a goat or anything to get the last bit of air out?

    Thanks
    Tom

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  3. #2
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    Did you bleed all brakes including rears?

  4. #3
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    I left that part out. Initially I only bleed the fronts, but then figured if that much fluid had been evacuated I probably have air in the ABS unit, so I proceeded to do all four corners on the second and third attempt.

    Thanks
    Tom

  5. #4
    What time is Matlock on?
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    Gotta bleed the WHOLE system bro...other wise the air will just move around or stay where it was originally.

    I think you might want to speed bleed the whole system . . . again. Sucks, but needed.

  6. #5
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    I just checked Bentley's. Basicially, they are saying, after using the bleeder unit (which I assume is a power bleeder), to bleed the brakes manually with an assistant at least 5 times to get all air out. Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF.

  7. #6
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    And don't forget the clutch slave if you are driving a manual transmission. It is tied into the same brake fluid system.

    Cheers,

    Carl III

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenblasko View Post
    I just checked Bentley's. Basicially, they are saying, after using the bleeder unit (which I assume is a power bleeder), to bleed the brakes manually with an assistant at least 5 times to get all air out. Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF.
    Just using the power bleeder is fine. However, start with the slave cylinder first (if 5MT) then folow the sequence RR, LR, RF, LF (or farthest to closest to the reservoir).

    Quote Originally Posted by ckatkinson View Post
    And don't forget the clutch slave if you are driving a manual transmission. It is tied into the same brake fluid system.

    Cheers,

    Carl III

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckatkinson View Post
    And don't forget the clutch slave if you are driving a manual transmission. It is tied into the same brake fluid system.

    Cheers,

    Carl III
    Don't you mean the master cylnder (as stated in the Haynes Manual)? I didn't think you ever had to ever bleed the clutch. Or am I mistaken?

    (my brakes are mushy, but my clutch is fine)

  10. #9
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    FWIW,
    When I did my Passat brakes with a homemade version of the Motul pressure bleeder, I found the rears very slow/hard to bleed.

    When I did my A2 GTI I had the same problem, but then realized that with the rear end jacked up in the air, the rear brake proportioning valve was likely almost closed off. I wired it open (remember to remove!) and the rears bled like a dream. I plan to check the Passat next time around to see if this helps the process as well.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonnybk View Post
    Don't you mean the master cylnder (as stated in the Haynes Manual)? I didn't think you ever had to ever bleed the clutch. Or am I mistaken?

    (my brakes are mushy, but my clutch is fine)
    I would bleed the clutch too, if I was going to the trouble to bleed the brakes. I had to rebuild/replace a few slave cylinders and one master clutch cylinder in Toyotas and Nissans, probably cause I had the same fluid in there for 10+ years. Wish I had known to bleed them back then.

    My other car (Hyundai Elantra) has a 5 speed, and I will bleed the clutch when I bleed the brakes (probably every 24K miles or so).

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonnybk View Post
    Don't you mean the master cylnder (as stated in the Haynes Manual)? I didn't think you ever had to ever bleed the clutch. Or am I mistaken?

    (my brakes are mushy, but my clutch is fine)
    I think you are correct. The brake reservoir only serves as a supply to the clutch master cylinder and should not be affected by air in the brake lines and thus not need bleeding when working on the brakes.

  13. #12
    xxxxxMech-E
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    When I changed the front pads, the calipers were cleaned, painted and greased up. I used the power bleeder (MightyVac) and worked rear to front on the final bleeding sequence. Pedal feels like a rock. However, after sitting over night and backing out of the driveway I hear the ABS pump run when stoping to shift into drive. Usually only does that once for the entire trip. It has me stumped, any ideas why?

  14. #13
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    i usually gravity bleed or pump bleed them.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by swcrow17 View Post
    Gotta bleed the WHOLE system bro...other wise the air will just move around or stay where it was originally.

    I think you might want to speed bleed the whole system . . . again. Sucks, but needed.
    Maybe true on the passat, but when i change the front axle on my 2500 dodge, I just unhook the brake line and let the fluid run out, when I hooked up the new axle just reattached, and then bleed on the fronts, the whole truck brakes great.

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