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Check Engine Light flashing, Car is shuddering

360K views 61 replies 28 participants last post by  Iowegian 
#1 ·
Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. Very well maintained. Timing belt done within last 25k.

So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.

I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position where it will be easily towed should it need to be.

So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.

I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.

For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.

I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder.

As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System. However, I will turn over to you all for advice. I will be consulting all my mechanics, and car buddies tomorrow. Any advice or ideas are welcome. Thanks

Stewart
 
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#36 · (Edited)
check in the plug wells. You may have a leak in the valve cover gasket and can cause a coil to short out prematurely.
 
#57 ·
I have a 2003 jetta 1.8T and was experiencing similar flashing CEL issues and shuddering under load. I replaced plugs and coil packs and the problem appeared to be solved for a few weeks. However, the problem is back, and I took interest in TwoManyPassat's post because it appears to be time sensitive. The first time i start the car each day it's fine, and on subsequent starts it gives me the shutters. Any ideas? Thank you for your time!
 
#40 ·
Loss of #1 Cylinder - Flashing CEL

1998 Passat GLS 1.8L with 88K miles. #1 cylinder stopped firing accompanied by a flashing CEL. Troubleshot the plug and coil but both were fine. No reference firing voltage coming into the ignition coil though (left pin on input to ignition coil). One mechanic thought the ECU was bad; 2 others thought I had a bad wire from the ECU to the coil.

Anyway, based on comments in PassatWorld, I thought the Ignition Control Module (ICM) was the problem although 3 mechanics disagreed, stating an ICM could not partially fail. Well, the 3 expert mechanics were wrong! Bought a $160 BOSCH ICM and installed it (EASY!). Car runs great and the CEL went out on its own after 30 minutes of driving. A special thanks to "Steve in Chicago".
 
#42 ·
1998 Passat GLS 1.8L with 88K miles. #1 cylinder stopped firing accompanied by a flashing CEL. Troubleshot the plug and coil but both were fine. No reference firing voltage coming into the ignition coil though (left pin on input to ignition coil). One mechanic thought the ECU was bad; 2 others thought I had a bad wire from the ECU to the coil.

Anyway, based on comments in PassatWorld, I thought the Ignition Control Module (ICM) was the problem although 3 mechanics disagreed, stating an ICM could not partially fail. Well, the 3 expert mechanics were wrong! Bought a $160 BOSCH ICM and installed it (EASY!). Car runs great and the CEL went out on its own after 30 minutes of driving. A special thanks to "Steve in Chicago".
i had the same problem years ago and thats how i found this site, my mechanic didnt know what was up, trusted these guys and $60 later (new icm price) the car was fixed.:bowdown:
 
#41 ·
Wow, I hate to say that you spent about $80 too much. You could have gotten an equally good HUCO ICM for about $80. But good that it fixed your problem. Also, Anybody here with a 98-99 that has replaced one could tell you that they almost always partially fail.
 
#45 ·
Had the same problem! took it to the auto shop and diagnostic said misfire cylinder 2, after they put in new coil packs changed the temp sensor, they called to say that didn't fix the problem, it's something in your valve train! So they put all my old parts back on and said good luck, and you need to pay us for the diagnostic and the labor to put your old parts back on! WTF
 
#46 ·
I have a RossTech but only the shareware software and here are my DTCs I am not seeing where it calls outa certain cylinder though. Just random misfires. ICM?

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D07
Coding: 06001
Shop #: WSC 30011
5 Faults Found:
17963 - Charge Pressure: Maximum Limit Exceeded
P1555 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0300 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16688 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0304 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0304 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
 
#47 ·
P0304 is cylinder 4.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17963/P1555/005461
17963/P1555 - Boost Pressure Control: Upper Limit Exceeded
Possible Symptoms
Reduced power output
Limp mode
Possible Causes
Boost Pressure too High
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles
Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17963/P1555/005461"
Please also try the ICM test.
 
#48 ·
What about P0300? Is that a particular cylinder? I got 2 from P0300 and 2 from P0304. I just swapped Coil Pack from position 4 to 3. Will try and see if the code follows. Car was running ok when I last shut it off so this problem is intermitent. ICM might be failing/working?
 
#50 ·
Coil packs replaced, no joy

I have a 2002 1.8t with 140k miles. Last night I got the flashing CEL and the car was shuddering. Luckily I was close to home.

Today I replaced all 4 coilpacks but it didn't fix the problem. I pulled the plugs (which I replaced with NGKs about 40k miles ago) and they look fine, seem to be getting balanced combustion, no fouling.

I don't have a Vag-Com to pull the codes. Any ideas what else it could be?
 
#51 ·
Figured it out

I figured my particular problem out. When I opened the coilpacks, one of them was missing the bubble wrap in the box which I thought was suspect at the time. I swapped that one with one of my old ones and the problem's fixed.

I guess I'm returning a coilpack to AutoZone. Sorry for the spam.
 
#52 · (Edited)
I have a similar problem with my wife's 99 1.8t. About 2 months ago when she was on her way to work it started shuddering and missing at a traffic light. She pulled over and called me. I proceeded to take her to work that day and left the car sitting there over night. When I showed up the next morning ready for a fight it started right up and ran smoothly, although the the CEL was still on. I borrowed a scanner from a friend after I got it home and it showed a cylinder 2 misfire. I cleared the code and it's been fine until last night. Drove it to the mall, was running fine, came out started it up, missing and shuddering. It didn't smooth out if I pressed the gas pedal, just missed faster as the RPM's went up. I don't have easy access to a scanner, so I'm kind of guessing, as my friend with the scanner is very popular and it's currently on loan to someone else. I bought a coil pack from Adavance Auto for $59.00, then proceeded to move it from cyclinder to cylinder, starting it up after each move to no avail. I pulled the plugs, all seemed ok, although #2 looked as if it was recently wet. I'm thinking of just ordering an ICM and throwing that at it. Please, any suggestions that are simple would be helpful. I don't have multimeters, and scanners, and all the other things that are apparently required to own one of these sick, sadistic pieces of condensed punishment. Also, someone mentioned that HUCO, or however it's spelled ICM's are available for $60.00. Where at? Cheapest I could find one so far was $116.00. Thanks in advance
 
#53 ·
Mine just partially failed, I don't want to deal with it so I'm doing the ICM delete with the red top coils that have the internal ICM. Only costs 20 bucks to replace one if they go bad this way. Of course it requires some rewiring so not for everyone unless you feel comfortable doing some wiring.
 
#55 ·
Will it work with mine?

Mine has the bosch model that doesn't look quite like the HuCO on the ECS website. I've noticed all the sites that sell them tell you to check which one your car currently has on it. Mine looks like the one in the pictures on the first page of this thread. Does it matter which one you get?
 
#59 ·
Started shuddering on the way to finish up xmas shopping last night, yay.
Coil packs and plugs were done this summer, and the coolant sensor has been done before,
but that may have been a couple years back.

Damn prodiag would not connect, so I came to PW searching symptons and wound up in this thread.

Got my old PC out to reload prodiag, but it's too wet out to fool with tonight.
At least grandpa's Saturn is in the drive
 
#61 ·
Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. Very well maintained. Timing belt done within last 25k.

So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.

I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position where it will be easily towed should it need to be.

So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.

I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.

For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.

I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder.

As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System. However, I will turn over to you all for advice. I will be consulting all my mechanics, and car buddies tomorrow. Any advice or ideas are welcome. Thanks

Stewart
I had the same problem.The CEL started flashing and it ran like crap. I took it to my VW dealership and they replaced all four coils and plugs. The car ran great, (no CEL) for the 15 mile drive home. The next day, I drove about 40 miles and all was good until I parked for about 3 hours. When I started the engine, the CEL started flashing again and engine was rough, I drove to my friends house about a mile away and the flashing went to solid on and the engine was running fine so I drove home with the CEL on. I have since test driven about 10 miles and the engine runs fine but the CEL is still on.
I don't know why the CEL is now on or why it started flashing and then went solid.
This is a 99 Passat wagon, 1.8, 5 speed with 120,000 miles. It sat pretty much all winter in Colorado. I just spent $600 on the problem and it's not gone away. Don't really want to spend more. Any suggestions for an inexpensive fix is appreciated.
 
#62 ·
You need to scan the car to read the codes that are setting the CEL. Anything else is guesswork and as you know, can get expensive quickly. Where in CO are you? I'm in Boulder and could scan your car, there are other folks around who might also do it. Many auto stores used to do this service for free but many no longer offer it due to COVID restrictions.

A flashing CEL means the car is running very rich. This can damage the catalytic converters so you shouldn't drive it under those conditions.
 
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