Severe stall/idle problems.
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  1. #1
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    Severe stall/idle problems.

    Hi all. Let me first start by talking about what lead up to it. The car has been sitting, with a dead battery for many weeks now (about 2-3 weeks). Today, I attempted to jump start the car (not knowing the battery was completely shot this time) as i've done in the past (it used to charge up fine and last me several days) but this time something different occured. The car immediately would stall out... I would pump the gas and it would freak out with the rpms jumpg up and down not really responding to the gas pedal as you would like. If I let it go, it would stall out. After keeping it reved for a few seconds (and yes, while having the pedal at a specific point, barely pressed, the rpms freaked and jumped up and down on their own...) it would finally keep its own, yet struggling idle. I let it run for about an hour idle, it still jumped around but steadied out a bit. Turned it off and back on (by the way now, its with a NEW battery) and the process started all over.

    I decided to bite the bullet and take it for a drive up the street.. i was literally flooring it, and it would not go passed about 30 mph. The rpms would not go over i'd say 1.5 - 2k...and occasionaly it would kick severely, the rpms would jump to about 3k for a moment and go back down.

    Does anyone have ANY ideas what so ever? It does kind of smell like something might be burning a bit underneath, like a fluid... but, again maybe thats from it sitting so long? And also, supposively according to the VW dealership, theres a tiny hydraulic leak from the steering column (i think thats what they said) leaking onto the back of the motor...maybe thats the smell? Not sure.

    PLEASE help it's crucial this car get working again, because i'm handing it down to my sister who's pregnant and needs a decent safe car Any thoughts would help, thanks much!

    -Jason

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  3. #2
    Super (Charged) Moderator, Grinding Gears...gone fishing! ScottPassat2.8's Avatar
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    might need a throttle body adaptation from battery dying.

  4. #3
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    What exactly does that mean?

  5. #4
    Super (Charged) Moderator, Grinding Gears...gone fishing! ScottPassat2.8's Avatar
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    1) Open the hood
    2) Turn the key to the last position before starting/cranking the car (aka accessories/windows opening possible mode)
    3) Possibly leaving your driver door open (open to arguement)
    4) Wait like 2-5 minutes

    You'll hear a high pitched whine from the ECU area. That's the Throttle Body Adaptation (TBA) that people talk about. Hope that helps.

  6. #5
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    First, you should get a new battery. Then, open the hood and driver's door. Put key in ignition and turn key so battery light comes on but do not start the car. Wait about one minute. Get out of car and you should hear a humming sound coming from the throttle body while its adapting. After a minute or so start car and see if TBA was the problem.

  7. #6
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    I tried exactly what you said. Nothing happened at all. Tried starting it back up, immediately stalls out. Any other ideas? ANYONE?

  8. #7
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    First, I have a brand new battery, several hours old. Second I did exactly that. Not a damn sound. I waited about 5 minutes atleast. I heard nothing.

  9. #8
    Super (Charged) Moderator, Grinding Gears...gone fishing! ScottPassat2.8's Avatar
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    air flow sensor?
    i am at a loss.

  10. #9
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    Try to get with someone to scan the car and find out what trouble codes it is reporting. Post the codes and then others should be able to help. Your best bet is to limp into Autozone or find someone nearby who owns VAG-COM, the aftermarket software that turns you PC into a dealer level factory diagnositc tool.

    -Bruce-
    Ross-Tech, LLC

  11. #10
    Super (Charged) Moderator, Grinding Gears...gone fishing! ScottPassat2.8's Avatar
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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lordlala
    First, I have a brand new battery, several hours old. Second I did exactly that. Not a damn sound. I waited about 5 minutes atleast. I heard nothing.
    The sound only last about 30 seconds or so after you turn key to on position. But it doesn't sound like that's the problem. There are a lot of sensors that probably could cause such a problem like mass air flow sensor, engine speed sensor, knock sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake temp sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, cam position sensor, ect. You probably need to hook up a Vag-Com and see what diaganostic trouble codes might be there.

  13. #12
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    I just downloaded the Vag-Com software and just bought (should be here within a couple days I pray) a usb kkl odb2 usb cable for it... lets pray it works out and I can get some info. back to you guys. Thanks again for all the help!

  14. #13
    JEM
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    You didn't say anything about the car before it sat with a bad battery, but your description of how its running sound like you lost a hose in the boost track. turbo to crossover pipe, crossover pipe to intercooler or intercooler to throttle body.

    also check turbo inlet pipe, pipe coming from the air box to the turbo.

    or like scottpassat2.8 mentioned, the mass air flow sensor.

    the engine is fueled based on MAF reading, if a hose came off then MAF reading would be low and little fuel would be delivered and it would run like crap. happened to me, got in the boost once and blew off the throttle body hose, it ran like crap until I put it back on, much like you describe.

    hope this helps.

  15. #14
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    Ok this is the reading I got using Vag-Com

    VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S


    Gateway does not exist or CAN interface required.
    Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
    Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,55,56,57,58,76

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine
    Controller: 4D0 907 551 AH
    Component: 2.8L V6/5V MOTR AT D04
    Coding: 06151
    Shop #: WSC 05311
    3 Faults Found:
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
    P1602 -- 35-00 - -
    17968 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded (Engine Warranty VOID! :-)
    P1560 -- 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    17966 - Throttle Actuator (G186): Electrical Malfunction
    P1558 -- 35-00 - -
    Readiness: 0110 1101

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 02: Auto Trans
    Controller: 8D0 927 156 BR
    Component: AG5 01V 2.8l5V USA 8511
    Coding: 00000
    Shop #: WSC 00000
    2 Faults Found:
    00296 - Kick-Down Switch (F8)
    29-10 -- Short to Ground - Intermittent
    00527 - Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor (G72)
    27-00 -- Implausible Signal

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 08: Auto HVAC
    Controller: 3B1 907 044 B
    Component: CLIMATRONIC V 1.0.0
    Coding: 05000
    Shop #: WSC 05311
    1 Fault Found:
    01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition: OFF
    35-10 -- - - Intermittent

    It absolutely won't do the Adapation thing. Just shows 0 degrees and N/A for everything when using the 060 block... any suggestions?>

  16. #15
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    Maybe the throttle valve control module (throttle body) is bad or the ground is bad. Maybe that's why you can't do the adaption thing. For the P1558 code, the ECM may run in limp mode about 1200-1300 rpm and depending on what angle and pedal positions its able to sense may have trouble reaching idle speed.

  17. #16
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    Well I know that one main requirement for running the adapting test is to clear all codes. But, when I try, it tells me the cable I have doesnt support clearing the codes or some crap. How do I go about clearing all the codes, if not with Vag-com how else?

  18. #17
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    Is anyone able to tell me what that Throttle Actuator code means and how I can clear the codes out of the car? Please...

  19. #18
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    Ok well I cleaned the throttle body and I can now turn the car on and it will pick up its own idle...little rough. It's STILL in limp mode though! And, I clear all the codes and the one code that KEEPS popping up is Throttle Control Valve: Malfunction. AND the funny thing is, when the car is ON... and I clear it, causes the car to rev real high and drop out... its kind of humerous :-D

    Anyone have ANY ideas? Is it time to replace the throttle body?

    AND! If I replace the throttle body will I have to do any re-programming?!?

  20. #19
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    yeah, sorry to say, it might be just a bad throttle body. get it fixed soon, as if it really messes up, you might not be able to drive the car at all. whatever you do, do not disconnect the battery, as doing so will cause the throttle body to lose the setting, and you might not be able to do a tba if the electrical is shot.

  21. #20
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    I'm pretty sure the electric IS shot...because the original battery was 100% d e a d... (which is when this all started...) and I cannot do a TBA what so ever now. I will not read the throttle body at all... i'm going to try having it 'rebuilt/repaired' since i cannot seem to find a used one anywhere... And VW wants $350 new

  22. #21
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    Hi, same problem but not as bad.
    Can i clean the maf with electric contact cleaner or do i need the proper maf cleaner?
    Also, i noticed a bit of a moist around the visible edges of the maf, just on top where all the wiring is.
    is it normal or i need to start saving for a new maf?
    Thanks in advance for your help

  23. #22
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    Try unplugging the electrical harness from the MAF. This will force the ECM to estimate the air flow rather than relying on the MAF. If it runs better with the MAF unplugged, then try cleaning it. I haven't cleaned mine, so can't recommend a cleaning procedure.

    Please note that you will definitely get a CEL once you disconnect the MAF, so I would recommend checking codes before you try this, then clearing codes afterward.

  24. #23
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    Use MAF cleaning spray or pure rubbing alcohol. Some electrical contact cleaners contain other ingredients, like lubricants, that you DO NOT want on your MAF sensor.

  25. #24
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    Thanks, i've reset the tba with the procedure above. Not much difference.
    Got to say though that i had this problem before after disconnecting the battery and it just disappeared after a week or so. I have disconnected the battery on sunday and after reconnecting i got this problem. Car runs smoothly, it's just that when in neutral the revs go up and down a couple of times between 600-800 before stabilising to a very steady just-over-800. (Cambelt replaced 10000 ago).
    I'm tempted to leave it for a week and see if it goes away like last time, also because i don't have the VAG-COM and i don't really trust anyone to touch my car given the bad experiences i had with mechanics.

  26. #25
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    Check all of your fuses.

  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRoJeKV6 View Post
    Check all of your fuses.
    why? Could it be a blown fuse?
    Everything works fine
    ??? :-)

  28. #27
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    Solved! :-)
    It was the TBA.
    Thanks for your advice guys!

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