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DIY: BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEM and HEATER CORE FLUSH

61K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  PZ  
#1 ·
BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM.

The cooling system should be bled any time the water in the reservoir has been very low, or the system
has been opened (other than the filler cap).
NOTE: The V6 has 2 extra bleeders, one is on the hard pipe about 6" below the coil pack connector,
the other is on the hard pipe about 4" below the CPS on the back of bank 2, these should be bled first,
then finish with the heater hose bleeder.

Bleed the cooling system with the engine NOT running. Disconnect the plug to the level sensor on bottom of the reservoir and raise reservoir as far as you can (cap end about 4") and prop up while bleeding.
The bleeder is where the RHS (US Passenger) outlet heater hose (with white marking) connects to the heater core, undo the clamp and move the hose until the bleeder hole is open, use a small screwdriver or wire to check that the hole is fully open.
With the Reservoir raised and the bleed hole open, pour coolant into the reservoir slowly until it runs freely out the heater bleed hole without bubbles, push hose back to original position and tighten. Reattach sensor plug, mount reservoir and top up.

Drive a few miles and recheck level.
To be totally sure, you could repeat the above procedure after driving several drive cycles.

Bleeding Notes
When bleeding; the car must not be on a steep slope.
The coolant level in the reservoir must be kept higher than the bleeder and the cap must be left off until
after the bleeder hose has been clamped.
Coolant must be flowing freely and smoothly through the bleeder when refitting the hose.
The engine MUST NOT be cranked or started while the bleeder is open. (Air would be sucked into the system)
The position of the heater controls has no effect on flushing or bleeding.
If the bleeding process is carried out correctly, there will be no air left in the system.


HEATER CORE FLUSH
Always reverse flush, connect the feed hose to the outlet (the one with the bleeder), and the drain hose to the inlet.
You will need to obtain a high flow, without reaching high pressure in the core. The valve in the cap is designed to prevent the system pressure from exceeding 15psi, I suggest you don't allow the pressure in the core to go much over that.
NOTE: A CLEAR CORE will easily take all the flow you can get from a 1/2" garden hose, without building up pressure in the core.

You should NEVER FORWARD FLUSH a core with any blockage, this would be unlikely to help much, and is likely to pack the core so tight that you may never remove the blockage with any method.


I suggest you try this method. (see the homemade tool.)


OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Amazon.com : Automotive

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/68-b5-garage/355695-homemade-heater-core-flushing-tool.html

Your options are:
1: Do nothing. (Shiver)
2: Replace the core. (Big job)
3: Flush the core clean. (Small risk of damage to core if careful) Worst case you still have options 1 & 2.

If you want to use a chemical solvent (such as CLR or Citric Acid), first reverse flush with water or water and air, then blow the water out of the core with air, then fill the core with chosen chemical and allow to soak. Repeat reverse flushing. Finish with a forward flush.

Heater Core Swap - PassatB5

 
#3 ·
Moved!
 
#6 ·
Thanks a lot. I hope it works. I have totally cold air throuh the vents.
  • ınlet and outlet hoses on the heater core are warm
  • checked water pump and thermostade; both are OK
  • Air Condition OK
  • When AC is on, vents work perfectly
  • I worked the climatronic self-diagnose system. 25b error code (Footwell/Defoster Blower Vent-V85) but after resetting it disappeared. I have no problem with both vents as I observe when AC is on.
I flushed the heater core only once in 25 years a few years ago when I had the same problem again but this time I hesitate to flush. As I read in the form, flushing might harm the heater core. You know it may be so difficult and expensive in especially 25 year-old Passat B5.
 
#7 ·
Great info. I can't pull the heater core outlet hose on my 05 Passat (1.8T, AWM) so I can't expose the bleeder hole. I'm not using a lot of force since I'm wary of damaging the heater outlet. Can I skip bleeding or will it reduce engine cooling or heat output? If it will, is there any alternative way to get air out of the system? I squeezed the upper and lower coolant hoses while the engine was running. Does that help? The temp gauge goes to 190 degrees and stays there just as before and the engine seems to be running fine. How can I tell if there is air in the system and if it's causing a problem?

Background:
The lower hose quick connect metal retaining clip rusted away (I'm in NH). Clip had probably been gone for a while but it took a 90+ degree day for the connection to loosen up and release the coolant. I filed away the bits of metal which had fused to the plastic hose connector and got a new clip (part 1J0-121-142). I had to heat the connector with a hair dryer to get it back on (pushing a 1" square piece of wood against the radiator from the front through the lower grill opening to avoid stressing the radiator). It's holding so far.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
#8 ·
It sounds like it's probably OK and I've never heard of anyone damaging their 1.8t by having air in the coolant lines. These engines also seem to self-bleed over time so just I'd keep an eye on it to avoid any over-heating conditions.

As for suggestions on the bleeder, I can understand your reluctance to use too much force on the hose. I always twist the hose first to break it free before removing it. I like to use some hose pliers like these as they really help.

Worst case, you could always just drill a hole into the top of the heater core pipe through the hose to bleed the system and then seal it back up with a clamp or something. But I wouldn't bother unless the temperature starts to act up.
 
#9 ·
Thanks, I now recall having replaced coolant lost when changing the thermostat five years or so ago and I didn't bleed the system then either. I was just beginning to work on the car and didn't even know I was supposed to! It's run fine since then so I'm not that worried, though now that I know you're supposed to do it I would like to. I did try to twist the hose first but it wouldn't budge at all even after inserting a 90 degree pick between the hose and the pipe on the top part of the hose. I saw a post which recommended using a hair dryer to loosen the hose, which I may try. Drilling the heater core pipe, which I think is plastic, sounds too risky!
 
#10 ·
A little highway drive should help get most of the air out of the heater core. If you still want to pull the hose:
You can thread a small screwdriver (or a longer pick) between the hose and outlet from the back. Slowly work your way around the hose until the hose is released.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. So any air in the system collects only in the heater core, where it will result in less effective heating (output feels pretty hot to me but it's in the 80s here so it's hard to tell), but not in the engine block, where it could reduce cooling and thus damage the engine? I know the heater outlet is the high point of the system but don't know if there are some localized high points in the engine that can also trap air.

If there's no risk to the engine, I may just wait until winter and if the heat's weak then try to loosen the hose with a pick. I've tried that on the top half of the hose but couldn't reach the bottom with the tools I have without removing the battery (or at least sliding it to the left).
 
#15 ·
Yeah the thinking is that oil dripping on the catalytic converter could start a fire. Doubt that's true or it would happen all the time in states without annual inspections. I've only lived in states that have them but learned recently that many don't, including big-govt California, which is interesting. I now think they're a good idea, at least for 20-year-old VWs, as they frequently find problems that should be fixed, like a broken spring on my front suspension last year. It was only a small piece at the end that broke off so I hadn't noticed it in normal driving but it could have been a big problem if it broke through the lower perch and hit the tire.
 
#16 ·
I was never a fan of vehicle inspections but after seeing some of the stuff on the road down in here AZ, it baffles my mind that inspections don't exist down here.
You would not believe what they allow on the roads here.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: PZ
#17 ·
Despite having inspections here, they don't get too picky if all the lights work (allowed 1 out in the center section), the horn works, and there is no CEL. I've never tried with bad tires, but I've seen plenty of bad cars on the road.