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PINCH BOLT REMOVAL made easy - pics

125K views 37 replies 20 participants last post by  RAH 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I used the method described by GLUCKS in my other post about the removal tool. I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling. To remove both bolts took about half an hour and I didn't even remove the wheels.

Pinch bolt.


Cutting through with Dremel tool. Only cut 1/2 way through. You don't want to cut into the ball joint pin that is held in by the pinch bolt. Notice shield to protect boot.


I don't know if you can see it, but look for the half cut through bolt.


Break off half cut through bolt head with wrench, and remove.




Grease pinch bolt threaded end and put on a washer to use as a bearing. Then install the coupling. I used an impact wrench, but a big ratchet should work as well.


I also used some washers in the first slot to support the casting. Don't force the washers in. They will stay in place as you tighten the coupling. You may or may not need them. I used them on one side, but not the other.


As you draw the bolt out, you will have to add spacers because the unthreaded portion of the bolt eventually enters the coupling. I added one lugnut, tightened the coupling, then had to add another.


Bolt is able to be removed by hand now.




Old bolt with cut head and shield I used to protect ball joint boot while cutting. Notice new bolt which will come out easily when I change struts next week.

(JayTheSnork note: I'm sure that this method is certainly a viable option, but this may not work for everyone - if your pinchbolt is really frozen up, this will not work - I've tried this method with no luck.)
 
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#3 ·
Good write up, this should save people quite a bit of time. Thanks to Kisakron for coming up with this technique.
pjvolkswagen I like the spacers in the gap. That probably makes it easier to draw the bolt out and make it less likely to strip the bolt.
Thanks for the hard work.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Glucks. It was your response to my other post that brought Kisakron's idea to light. I basicly only contributed the pics. Thanks to Curtis Mayfield for the washer idea. I saw the value of maintaining the gap using them. The tool Curtis suggested was about to be ordered by me, but I tried this first instead.
 
#8 ·
nice set of pix. if only mine would have come out like that!
where do you live? my pinchbolt area was much more corroded than yours, so I'm thinking a climate where they don't put salt on the roads... :banghead:
 
#21 · (Edited)
Do you think a person could just use the nut on the end of the pinch bolt - put some grease and a washer and use the nut itself to pull the bolt through.

I mean if you tighten the bolt further - it should pull the pinch bolt out. That is provided it doesn't spin. But, if it spins then it should back out anyway.

Thoughts?
 
#22 ·
you can use the the nut that is already on the pinch bolt. I did that and it worked fine. others have done that and stripped the threads, which means they have to drill or heat and beat the bolt out ( which was there other options anyway).
the point of the coupling nut is to spread out the force so there is less chance of stripping the threads. regardless of which nut you use grease the threads. when I used the oem nut to pull the bolt out it got quite warm it was easy to see how it could get stripped.
let us know how it goes.
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the reply - As others have said - NICE APPROACH to this problem!

I will PB this from now until next weekend and beat it with a BFH before I even try to extract it with the bolt - hoping to break it free a bit - allowing the bolt to pull it out easier. Heck, I might even get the coupler - did you have a source yet. I will reread the thread. Thanks again.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I used the method described by GLUCKS in my other post about the removal tool. I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling.
Do you know the length you purchased - it looks like 25 or 30 MM?

If I had a welder, I would try and weld the nuts together. I may grab a few extra bolts - thread them onto a spare pinch bolt I have and have a buddy weld them together. Hmmm?

Anyone find a good supplier for these couplings?
 
#27 ·
I would recommend not beating the bolt too much before hand. IF you bend the bolt or damage the threads you will not be able to use this method. I beat on my bolts really hard with a 5 pound sledge until they started to bend. I was lucky the threads still worked and could use this method. If your pinch bolts are not too badly rusted they may pop out with a couple hits but just go easy. Remember to grease the threads and protect the ball joint boots.
good luck
 
#32 ·
I bought 4 couplers - let me know if you want one. I'm in NH so the car has seen salt - I did this method today and it didn't work for me - Boo Hoo. LOL

I had to pound, and drill. Bolt came out in 3 pieces and a bunch of filings. But, I got the CAs done.

Thanks for this post guys!
 
#34 ·
Gluck - Update - Good Results to report. I was able to pull out 2 bolts from my buddies B5 using this method. His car was a 99 to and they were stuck pretty good. He did soak his for a week longer than mine with PB blaster - and they came out whole! NICE.

Mine were REALLY REALLY corroded - this car saw hard outside weather and it shows. That's why I got it cheap.

Anyway - I would improve this. USE LOTS OF GREASE or PB Blaster or whatever your using for lube. GO SLOW, Heat is the enemy here - the slower and more reasonable i was the better they moved.

USE AIR TOOLS - they have results just rotating. Where with a hand wrench or socket - you have more chance of shearing off the corroded bolt

Oh, BTW I had to drill the other freaking side of my car too. But, I'm a lot better at it now, I learned a lot and I was able to pull like an extra 1 1/2 inches of bolt out with this method before it broke. I think I was still going to fast, it got too hot and snapped.

Dont forget - You NEED a spacer. If you start to get into the corroded threads you risk breaking the bolt - It may say the earlier in the thread but I wanted to make sure it was CLEAR.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL WHO CAME UP WITH THIS IDEA! Great Stuff!
 
#35 ·
Glad to hear you got it to work.
Sounds like it has worked 4 times and not worked 2 times.
I think pretreating the bolt for 2 weeks before hand with PB blaster every other day is a good idea as well as using a heavier lubricant on the threads of the bolt when pulling it out (such as axle grease).
I think even when this technique fails it is not to bad because it allows you to remove the outer two ends of the bolt and then you can use the holes as a guide for drilling or a center punch.
 
#36 ·
Thank you so much I have been searching all day, I'm going to be doing my coilovers soon and I heard that the pinch bolt is a real pain in the ass so I wanted to start hitting it with some lube to loosen it up in the meantime until the coilovers get here. So now with the pictures I know exactly what I'm lubing :thumbup:
 
#37 ·
Bumping this old thread as proof that this method works! After having to drill out two pinch bolts years ago on a '99 I wish I'd seen this method back then. While drilling would have taken me hours, I had this bolt out in less than one.
Job was done on a 2002 V6 wagon that's seen salted winter roads all of it's life up here in Saskatchewan/Alberta (original bolt by the looks of it). Had the knuckle out for a wheel bearing replacement. It's finally getting new upper arms as well.

The use of grease, washers and larger nuts as spacers helped. Take your time and don't let things heat up too much. Worse part of it was trying to find an m10X1.5 coupling nut locally. No one had metric nuts (and I'm in Canada). Finally found stock at Gregg's Distributors.
 
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