PINCH BOLT REMOVAL made easy - pics
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Thread: PINCH BOLT REMOVAL made easy - pics

  1. #1
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    PINCH BOLT REMOVAL made easy - pics

    I used the method described by GLUCKS in my other post about the removal tool. I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling. To remove both bolts took about half an hour and I didn't even remove the wheels.

    Pinch bolt.


    Cutting through with Dremel tool. Only cut 1/2 way through. You don't want to cut into the ball joint pin that is held in by the pinch bolt. Notice shield to protect boot.


    I don't know if you can see it, but look for the half cut through bolt.


    Break off half cut through bolt head with wrench, and remove.




    Grease pinch bolt threaded end and put on a washer to use as a bearing. Then install the coupling. I used an impact wrench, but a big ratchet should work as well.


    I also used some washers in the first slot to support the casting. Don't force the washers in. They will stay in place as you tighten the coupling. You may or may not need them. I used them on one side, but not the other.


    As you draw the bolt out, you will have to add spacers because the unthreaded portion of the bolt eventually enters the coupling. I added one lugnut, tightened the coupling, then had to add another.


    Bolt is able to be removed by hand now.




    Old bolt with cut head and shield I used to protect ball joint boot while cutting. Notice new bolt which will come out easily when I change struts next week.

    (JayTheSnork note: I'm sure that this method is certainly a viable option, but this may not work for everyone - if your pinchbolt is really frozen up, this will not work - I've tried this method with no luck.)
    Last edited by JayTheSnork; 03-24-2008 at 08:20 PM. Reason: spelling
    Tomvw likes this.

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  3. #2
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    Real nice. Excellent post!
    Looks like a candidate for a writeup.

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    Good write up, this should save people quite a bit of time. Thanks to Kisakron for coming up with this technique.
    pjvolkswagen I like the spacers in the gap. That probably makes it easier to draw the bolt out and make it less likely to strip the bolt.
    Thanks for the hard work.

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    Awesome work...
    This screams Info Forum!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Glucks View Post
    Good write up, this should save people quite a bit of time. Thanks to Kisakron for coming up with this technique.
    pjvolkswagen I like the spacers in the gap. That probably makes it easier to draw the bolt out and make it less likely to strip the bolt.
    Thanks for the hard work.
    Thanks Glucks. It was your response to my other post that brought Kisakron's idea to light. I basicly only contributed the pics. Thanks to Curtis Mayfield for the washer idea. I saw the value of maintaining the gap using them. The tool Curtis suggested was about to be ordered by me, but I tried this first instead.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pjvolkswagen View Post
    I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling.
    Can I ask where you ordered this coupling from and how much it was? Thanks.

    BTW, nice job!!

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    Do you have the part number for the pinch bolt, or can you point it out in this picture?



    Mike

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    nice set of pix. if only mine would have come out like that!
    where do you live? my pinchbolt area was much more corroded than yours, so I'm thinking a climate where they don't put salt on the roads...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjones72 View Post
    Can I ask where you ordered this coupling from and how much it was? Thanks.

    BTW, nice job!!
    Second that I am doing this next week...it maybe worth the try.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjones72 View Post
    Can I ask where you ordered this coupling from and how much it was? Thanks.

    BTW, nice job!!
    A machinist friend of mine ordered it from some industrial supply place. It cost about $4. I gave him $10 for the trouble and to cover shipping. I will ask for the company name and catalog number when I see him. I was going to have him make me something that I could put a big socket on, but he had no hex stock. He said this pklace had case-hardened couplings, so I tried it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Do you have the part number for the pinch bolt, or can you point it out in this picture?



    Mike
    Number 8 & 9. My dealer had them in stock. It was $4 and change for two bolts and nuts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTheSnork View Post
    nice set of pix. if only mine would have come out like that!
    where do you live? my pinchbolt area was much more corroded than yours, so I'm thinking a climate where they don't put salt on the roads...
    I live in NH. Pleanty of salt here.

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    I don't understand the purpose of the washers in the gap. Are you trying to make sure the gap doesn't close, resulting in housing damage?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Antoddio View Post
    I don't understand the purpose of the washers in the gap. Are you trying to make sure the gap doesn't close, resulting in housing damage?
    So that you can use it like a reverse press action. You would run out of threads with out the spacers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Purplezr2 View Post
    So that you can use it like a reverse press action. You would run out of threads with out the spacers.

    I think he meant the washers in the "Pinch" slot. Yes, they are to keep the slot from closing too tight which might cause the housing to grip the bolt more and make it more difficult to remove. And to prevent damage, although I did one side without the washers OK.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pjvolkswagen View Post
    I think he meant the washers in the "Pinch" slot. Yes, they are to keep the slot from closing too tight which might cause the housing to grip the bolt more and make it more difficult to remove. And to prevent damage, although I did one side without the washers OK.
    Didn't even catch those. Nicely done.

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    This was nicely done - ever get info on what that coupling was or where to get it?

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    echoing Bill, "INFO FORUM!!!"

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    Do you think a person could just use the nut on the end of the pinch bolt - put some grease and a washer and use the nut itself to pull the bolt through.

    I mean if you tighten the bolt further - it should pull the pinch bolt out. That is provided it doesn't spin. But, if it spins then it should back out anyway.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by NH VW Junky; 06-13-2007 at 08:49 AM.

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    you can use the the nut that is already on the pinch bolt. I did that and it worked fine. others have done that and stripped the threads, which means they have to drill or heat and beat the bolt out ( which was there other options anyway).
    the point of the coupling nut is to spread out the force so there is less chance of stripping the threads. regardless of which nut you use grease the threads. when I used the oem nut to pull the bolt out it got quite warm it was easy to see how it could get stripped.
    let us know how it goes.

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    Great info! Bookmarked

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    Quote Originally Posted by Glucks View Post
    you can use the the nut that is already on the pinch bolt. I did that and it worked fine. others have done that and stripped the threads, which means they have to drill or heat and beat the bolt out ( which was there other options anyway).
    the point of the coupling nut is to spread out the force so there is less chance of stripping the threads. regardless of which nut you use grease the threads. when I used the oem nut to pull the bolt out it got quite warm it was easy to see how it could get stripped.
    let us know how it goes.
    Thanks for the reply - As others have said - NICE APPROACH to this problem!

    I will PB this from now until next weekend and beat it with a BFH before I even try to extract it with the bolt - hoping to break it free a bit - allowing the bolt to pull it out easier. Heck, I might even get the coupler - did you have a source yet. I will reread the thread. Thanks again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pjvolkswagen View Post
    I used the method described by GLUCKS in my other post about the removal tool. I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling.
    Do you know the length you purchased - it looks like 25 or 30 MM?

    If I had a welder, I would try and weld the nuts together. I may grab a few extra bolts - thread them onto a spare pinch bolt I have and have a buddy weld them together. Hmmm?

    Anyone find a good supplier for these couplings?
    Last edited by NH VW Junky; 06-13-2007 at 01:37 PM.

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    Found them at a fastener supplier - I will report back how this procedure works for me! Thanks again.

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    I would recommend not beating the bolt too much before hand. IF you bend the bolt or damage the threads you will not be able to use this method. I beat on my bolts really hard with a 5 pound sledge until they started to bend. I was lucky the threads still worked and could use this method. If your pinch bolts are not too badly rusted they may pop out with a couple hits but just go easy. Remember to grease the threads and protect the ball joint boots.
    good luck

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    The couplling nut would be available from Fastenal, a fastener place in most cities; McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com) Reid Tool Supply, MSC Industrial Supply or nearly any other nut and bolt house (fasteners in the yellow pages). It may be a special order, but most can get them.

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    for the easiest removal:
    move to texas. down here, i have yet to see a crippling problem like that due to something rusting down like that

  31. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSO_Passater View Post
    McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com)
    Thats it - it was like $5.

    Lets see how well this works!

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