I used the method described by GLUCKS in my other post about the removal tool. I had ordered a M10x1.5 pitch case-hardened hex coupling. To remove both bolts took about half an hour and I didn't even remove the wheels.
Pinch bolt.
Cutting through with Dremel tool. Only cut 1/2 way through. You don't want to cut into the ball joint pin that is held in by the pinch bolt. Notice shield to protect boot.
I don't know if you can see it, but look for the half cut through bolt.
Break off half cut through bolt head with wrench, and remove.
Grease pinch bolt threaded end and put on a washer to use as a bearing. Then install the coupling. I used an impact wrench, but a big ratchet should work as well.
I also used some washers in the first slot to support the casting. Don't force the washers in. They will stay in place as you tighten the coupling. You may or may not need them. I used them on one side, but not the other.
As you draw the bolt out, you will have to add spacers because the unthreaded portion of the bolt eventually enters the coupling. I added one lugnut, tightened the coupling, then had to add another.
Bolt is able to be removed by hand now.
Old bolt with cut head and shield I used to protect ball joint boot while cutting. Notice new bolt which will come out easily when I change struts next week.
(JayTheSnork note: I'm sure that this method is certainly a viable option, but this may not work for everyone - if your pinchbolt is really frozen up, this will not work - I've tried this method with no luck.)
Pinch bolt.
Cutting through with Dremel tool. Only cut 1/2 way through. You don't want to cut into the ball joint pin that is held in by the pinch bolt. Notice shield to protect boot.
I don't know if you can see it, but look for the half cut through bolt.
Break off half cut through bolt head with wrench, and remove.
Grease pinch bolt threaded end and put on a washer to use as a bearing. Then install the coupling. I used an impact wrench, but a big ratchet should work as well.
I also used some washers in the first slot to support the casting. Don't force the washers in. They will stay in place as you tighten the coupling. You may or may not need them. I used them on one side, but not the other.
As you draw the bolt out, you will have to add spacers because the unthreaded portion of the bolt eventually enters the coupling. I added one lugnut, tightened the coupling, then had to add another.
Bolt is able to be removed by hand now.
Old bolt with cut head and shield I used to protect ball joint boot while cutting. Notice new bolt which will come out easily when I change struts next week.
(JayTheSnork note: I'm sure that this method is certainly a viable option, but this may not work for everyone - if your pinchbolt is really frozen up, this will not work - I've tried this method with no luck.)