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Help me out here, this trunk issue is killing me!!

4K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  SuperFlea 
#1 ·
This issue is really getting to me. I can't seem to resolve it. My lift gate on my 04 GLX wagon doesn't open with the remote, rear lift micro switch or the button on the drivers door. I thought it would be the flippin' actuator motor and went ahead and purchased one. Turns out it's not that, since I plugged in the new motor and it doesn't work either. And to make matters even worse, my key mechanism stopped working for some reason. All it does is turn, but doesn't unlock. You could spin the cylinder with the key in place a million times and it still wouldn't open. I had to open it via the license plate light opening. Pain in the ass :mad:



My replacement motor is also a Hella, and looks to be exactly the same.



It's funny, that i can easily push the puller arm on the new motor (when unplugged), but when I plug the connector into the motor, the arm gets hard to push. Not so much as to not being able to push it, but you can immediately notice some resistance. Might there be power going to it? I tested for power, but used a cheapo light tester. You know, the one that has a little bulb in it and turns on when using for testing. I know, sucks.

Is there some sort of relay I can check? :confused:

Any advice, is highly appreciated. :thumbup:
 
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#3 ·
Ok, I borrowed a proper multimeter and took some readings, aaaaaaand got the trunk microswitch to work, but there's a trick to it.

When I first tested the volts, I got 0.04 constant. Which I think isn't supposed to be. Maybe that's why the previous actuator blew / burned?



after I installed the new actuator, I gave the remote a couple of clicks, and nothing. Tried the trunk micro switch and nothing, lastly I tried the door switch and nada either. But after doing the door button, I went back to the micro switch and BOOM, worked magically. WTF?? :confused:

Tried the micro switch again and nothing, but went to click the door button and then the microswitch and ding, opened again. So, if I click the door button first, then it allows me to open the trunk via the micro switch.

As for the constant 0.04V, I noticed the reading goes to 0.00. So, I activate the alarm via the remote and 0v, but after unlocking via remote it goes back to 0.04v

Locked via remote -



And this is what I get when pressing the trunk micro switch to open -



But it only functions once. After that, to make it work again, I have to press / click the door button. :banghead:
 
#4 ·
I had a similar problem:

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(I apologize for the accent and the quality of the video clip).
Although I pre-ordered all the electrical components just to have them on hand, for me it turned out to be the actual "micro switch", or what I've seen referred to as "push button". What you do when touching it is actually push a rectangular clapet (for lack of a better or correct term, which is screened by the rubber sleeve) that in turn presses against the microswitch, which activates the actuator to depress the latch cable. That's what allows you to open up the liftgate.
My button had the metal clapet corroded and it would not move anymore against the microswitch. Probably I could have cleaned it, but since I already ordered a new one I just replaced it. That's how I solved my problem. I don't know if you may have the same culprit, but it is worth a shot to pull it out and check it.
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By the way, as you can see in the video, the little switch I press there to activate the motor actuator is connected to the cylinder... Too many darn electrical components just in the liftgate... It used to be that you only needed the key to lock/unlock. Those days are far gone.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the vid, i actually saw your older posts about the microswitch getting corroded. I took mine out, opened it up an found it was very clean. Applied new grease, installed it and still didn't work.

I was doing some more research this morning and late last night. So, the Wagon/Variant does not pop/activate the actuator when clicking the FOB or the button on drivers door. It only "unlocks it" for a brief second and allows you to open the lift via the microswitch / rubber pad. I can't just go straight to the rear pad and click it to open the liftgate? This, I didn't know. Guess this means it's kind of fixed?

So, the only issue I have to solve now is, the remote / key fob will not "unlock" the microswitch. I tried pressing the button for a few seconds and nothing. My locks work perfectly and activates the alarm as well, just not the rear lift gate :cry:
 
#6 ·
I don't think that by pressing either button - on the remote, or the door card - the liftgate should pop open. It only unlocks the cylinder (like you'd do with the key), and subsequently you open (lift) it via the push button/rubber pad. Essentially, you can call it a "2-step" operation.
I could be wrong about how exactly it is designed to work, but I don't remember reading from anyone else that it shouldn't be that way.
- As related to your last point about the alarm, one thing I noticed on mine after replacing all of those parts is that I actually had to adjust the latch receiver plate as the liftgate would not close quite tight.
I did adjust the plate and need to "slam" the liftgate a bit firmer. I don't know why it would be necessary since I reinstalled the same weather stripping it had and didn't use an excessive amount of sealer. However, as I do that everything works fine, alarm activates when locking, the lock locks... it's all good.
 
#7 ·
You're right. The lift gate doesn't pop open. The door button and remote only unlocks the gate, and you open it via lift pad/micro switch.

Now, the only issue I have is the key fob not unlocking the gate. I have both remotes and nothing. I'll try reprograming them later today, although every other function (locks/unlock/alarm) works perfectly.
 
#8 ·
As I was reading, I was thinking to say that you may need to reprogram the remotes, but you already had that in mind.
If you recall from the video, my liftgate would not react at all when trying to unlock it via the remote. After getting my two new fobs and programming them (reprogram the old one) the liftgate actually reacts to the fob button. Here is where I don't know how exactly the fob transmits the radio signal (either to the CCM or ECU, which send activating signal to one of the micro switches, or directly to one of them which acts as a receiver as well), but now they both work.
I'm not sure if your problem is identical, but I just wanted to share with you my experience. I hope you solve that last issue.
 
#9 ·
Well, I gave it a try to no success. I tried re-programming both remotes in hopes that it would fix this issue, but no worky. On the plus side though, the door button is working perfectly. We went shopping yesterday and used the trunk button about 15 times.

Thanks for the help Chefro, I appreciate it tons :thumbup:

I'll keep fiddling with this key fod dealio.
 
#11 ·
No, i haven't. Although mine seems to be working fine. I knew about the little switch on it, be was thinking it was for the light and for the car to know it's in open or closed position. It seems to be working correctly, as everytime I open the hatch, the light turns on and I get the "trank open" warning on the cluster (when the car is running, of course). Should I remove it and check it too?
 
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