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Passat help CCT

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cct help passat
4K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  scotts13 
#1 ·
So i went to do valve seals in my passat and when i took the valve cover off the cct on the passenger side was bad. the plastic pad had disintegrated and it was metak to metal. so while i was there i replaced it. I started it up afterwards and let it run for about 20 min. Then a few days later i started it up again and no problem. A week later i start it up again and it knocks a little. let it run about 5 min and the knock gets louder. so now its knocking. few keys: knock goes away after 3k rpm. oil was changed. the engine never made noise before this. any help is appreciated and im willing to follow any tests or routines to help solve the problem. thanks! btw the car is a 2000 passat with 2.8v6 123k miles
 
#3 ·
Is this knocking coming from the valve cover? An oil pressure test would be helpful. The cam chain adjuster relies on oil pressure to work properly. Any debris in the crankcase may collect in the pan and block the pickup screen, which will adversely impact oil supply up top.

Can you write what you did in chronological order? You don't say when you did the oil change, or what you did when you put the new pad in. The timing may have gone off when the new pad went on. Or perhaps other stuff was worn also.

Scan the car as well to what codes you may hve.

You may want to refrain from turning the engine until you confirm that static timing is correct (use a wrench to turn it by hand to TDC). You will need to open up that side again to confirm. There is a DIY in the infobase for the V6.

You can reuse the gasket and seals if you are careful when removing the valve cover.
 
#5 ·
When my wife's cct war out like yours there was a fair amount of plastic material in the oil pan and some in the oil pump pick up screen I had to clean out.only had to drop the lower oil pan it's not too hard to do.( Wife's car is a 2003 passat GLX with the ATQ V6)if your pick up screen is getting plugged you will not have good oil pressure.I would also hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what your oil pressure is.that plastic and metal had to go somewhere.:wrench:I also replaced the wear pads on the other CCT for the other Cylinder head and I pulled the front cover and replaced the wear pads on the oil pump chain tensioner because I figure they are all the same plastic and they're destined to fail !hope this helps.:thumbup:
 
#9 ·
When my wife's cct war out like yours there was a fair amount of plastic material in the oil pan and some in the oil pump pick up screen I had to clean out.
This is exactly what happened to my '98 V6 back when I bought it in 2006.
I drove the car for a short while and the motor went to hell. The screen in the oil pick-up was completely plugged and so were the tiny screens in the CCT's.
The motor was so bad I had to swap it out.
 
#8 ·
I usually search for these things.

pick up a mechanical gauge for temporary use, or an electronic one for permanent install. You'd need one with an M10 adapter fitting if I am not mistaken.

There is a port on the oil filter bracket with a plug. remove that plug and install the gauge, using that fitting.

Drive the car for at least a good 30 minutes or longer to get the oil heated up properly (ignore the temp gauge on your dash, that's for coolant). Then pull over and note the oil pressure at idle, rev to a steady 2000 and 3000 rpm, and note the pressure also.

Post the results, or search to see what others get.
 
#10 ·
btw the car is a 2000 passat with 2.8v6 123k miles
There is a port on the oil filter bracket with a plug. remove that plug and install the gauge, using that fitting.
Right on, sir. The plug is on the other side of the oil temp sensor. The AC compressor is there though...Didn't look at the port while the compressor was in the car, so not sure how easy/hard is to access that area directly beneath the compressor though.
 
#11 ·
My left cct went out 6-7 years ago with blown head gaskets. Make sure to check your oil really good and change it a month after u change the oil. I did this because I had big chunks of plastic from the cct in my oil. Changed the oil and I still had pieces. I put my finger inside the pick up tube and there was still pieces on top around by the screen.
 
#12 ·
ok, thanks for all the advice. i have an oil pressure guage coming in the next week or so and then ill check it. If the pressure was low or the pickup tube was clogged, wouldnt the entire engine make noise? becasue only the one side is making noise. just wondering
 
#13 ·
In theory, that makes sense, but do you know exactly where the noise is coming from? You can use a long screwdriver to locate it. If it is right where the CCA chain is (and with a V6 you can compare the noise on the other side) then the CCA does not extend fully, or the chain has some issue. You may need to inspect the screen on that CCA (as stated above it can get clogged after pad failure) . If you didn't change the chain on that side, inspect it best as you can.

I'd remove the oil pan just for peace of mind. On the V6 it is not as hard. If you have a partly clogged oil pickup screen, that might allow enough pressure to extend the CCA on one side but the one on the other side may have a blocked screen and receives no pressure. The reason that the noise goes away at certain rpms may have to do with the fact that the CCA solenoid moves the chain down to change the valve timing.

Reading these reports I am beginning to think you should not run the motor at all (so don't run it to get oil pressure readings) and go straight into removing all the covers to clean out blockages. Its a big job, but if the motor made no noises for 126K that's worth preserving.

FWIW, when I do an OC I catch the old oil into a clean container and then pass it through a fine mesh looking for bits of stuff like that. Early warning system.
 
#16 ·
I meant on the CCA. I have to admit I don't exactly understand how the CCA screen could get plugged up by bits of pad as people here have reported. I would think anything that breaks loose will only find its way down to the pan and if the sump screen doesn't stop it, the oil filter certainly would. I am assuming that the CCA is fed only by filtered oil but I don't know that for a fact. Unless the oil media gets cut by those bits, which I doub5.

There is an oil pump inbetween the sump and the filter of course and that would be worth checking as it could play a role in oil pressure.
 
#20 ·
So to be clear, there is knocking on one side (which one?) up to about 3000 rpm, right? Is the knocking when engine is cold only, or it doesn't matter? Can you record it and post a link to the video?

Do you have a CEL?

When you get a cable, do a scan and post any codes you get.
 
#22 ·
Should i bother 2003 1.8T only 40k, worth fixing or swap out this warenteed engine?

I have a 2001 1.8T i got for really cheap but needed new engine cause last one was toast- due to oil sludge. The new engine is a 2003 with 40k so i was hoping it would last me for a long time. i bought that in august and it has been constantly in the shop with my mechanic. I wish i knew about the oil sludge before as much as i have read now b/c i would have had my mechanic drop the pan before he installed it and check the pickup vent. this is the story: my husband drove it hard up the road after he charged the a/c. Then he heard a loud TINK type noise then the OIL PRES STOP came on for the 1st time that we had seen (had it for a few days at that point). Then he limped it home (1/2 mile). then i started up the car and it made a horrible noise, made me think of timing belt and quickly shut off. Had it towed to mechanic and he couldnt recreate the problem for days. We got it back and when i took it 20 miles and on hilly stretches of 55 mph, then the warnings started up again and more often. i would pull over turn off, restart go a mile, etc. Got to a point where engine seemed overly hot and could then smell some oil that had dripped down the side of the engine, my husband recalls near the turbo. My mechanic drove to car for a weekend and was able to recreate the situation. He figures we need need pickup tube. My husband is concerned the whole engine is totaled and should swap it out with the company we got it from. Before we have him drop the pan i had my mechanic looked into the drained oil pan with a boroscope, but he saw nothing. He poured the drained oil into another bucket and reported tiny black plastic bits.
He will open valve cover and look at the status in there. i wonder if CCT chewed through valve cover, or CCA pads worn.

1. I asked him to look under valve cover and check for sludge signs and pop out one of the cams- valid request?
2. If the cams look good should i pursue fixing this or just get a new used engine to swap out cause between replacing CCT VCG PCV and oil pump pickup tube this is going to cost well over 1000! If people think its such a huge deal then i can call the company and it should be legitimate to swap out engine, course i have to have wasted money on multiple installs

I told him if we are going to drop the pan, i will come up with a whole parts list of stuff for him to change out while he is doing the oil pickup tube because i am not doing this again.
3. Can anyone help me put together a list?

Should i go with kits or hand pick all my parts to make sure i have good ones like PTFe cam seals as i have been reading.

CCT gasket set at ECS Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T Search Seals - 058198217 - Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket Set - ES#258759
or should i go with enhanced ultra kit at Vw Passat Valve Cover Gasket Kit - Passat Valve Cover Gaskets AUG

Thinking of getting crankcase breather hose kit Vw Passat Breather Hose - Vw Passat Crankcase Breather Hoses
or should i just choose this? Volkswagen Passat B5 FWD 1.8T - 058198298 - Breather Hose Service Kit - ES#5942

Definately getting oil sludge repair kit ECS includes pump/ pickuptube
i know i need to makes sure to have (intake cam seal ,valve cover gasket ,tensioner hose clamps, cam plugs)

are cam caps different than cam plugs?
what about new coil packs?
 
#23 ·
Picts of open valve cover

My mechanic thinks things look good under valve cover. showed me and i took some picts. I am new here and this is my 1st time posting pict so excuse me if picts dont show up. is it okay to use google?

He found some hard plastic bits in the oil he drained.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzhq2OLU4swQRmdJMm1sRHk3NkE/view?usp=sharing

The dirty valve cover:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzhq2OLU4swQTFRtanFMNEhJd1U/view?usp=sharing

clean within the valve cover
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzhq2OLU4swQcEdmVzJGVFBZY2M/view?usp=sharing

close up of CCT i believe pads look fine
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzhq2OLU4swQVVR1Q0ltTUI3YmM/view?usp=sharing

I gave him the okay to drop the oil pan and replace pump, tube. Should i have him do anything else taking advantage of this job? He says not necessary. He says if this doesnt fix the Low Press Stop issue, the engine is not getting pressure and there is a problem somewhere inside the engine and then i will be talking to the company we got it from. I guess i agree, why would i fix other things if this engine may get swapped out! They said i needed an exact diagnosis of what is going on in order for them to approve part replacement and engine swap out. Well how are we supposed to know exactly the problem? If it is not the oil pump the plastic bits came from somewhere. Any opinions?
 
#24 ·
Can you start a new thread with everything you wrote here. It would be easier all around.

You need to do an oil pressure test first and before dropping the pan. When the warning comes on damage is being done. If it continues to be driven with the recurring warnings a dead engine is near certainty. The pics you showed don't look like they came from an engine with only 40k miles, well, perhaps it is only 40K but willfully negle ted. You may want to figure out the cost of installing a replacement engine that hopefully they will give you for free, or trying to fix various parts of it which can quickly skyrocket

Plastic bits are probably from the CCA or oil dipstick tube. Usually you can tell by the color and shape of the bits.
 
#25 ·
My 2000 1.8T looked better than that inside at two hundred and forty thousand miles miles. Agree that you shouldn't run it, and agree that an oil pressure test first is a good step. But, if a new pump and pickup tube doesn't fix the pressure problem (it usually does) then the engine may just be worn out or excessively damaged.
 
#26 ·
well can you point me to any pictures of what "looked better than that" means, what do you see as looking bad on mine (besides vc mess)?
Should i go ahead and plan on getting a new PVC kit to be safe? its something i would want to have peace of mind if i end up keeping or swapping out this engine.
What can one do to prove an engine is worn or damaged, ideas? i need proof to get it swapped. P.S. i forgot i started a new thread : its called Should i bother? 2003 1.8T
 
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