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Both CCT replacement V6. Cam lock tool necessary or not?

4K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  chefro 
#1 ·
I'll be replacing both my Cam Chain Tensioners on the V6 ATQ and I've read (somewhere ?) that you do and also that you don't need to lock the cams. I don't want to remove the timing belt.

If I do need it, anything wrong with the cheaper Ebay ones or should I buy EC$?

Cheers & thanks for your input!
 
#2 ·
To the best of my knowledge (because I have not done this job) the exhaust cams don't get touched, therefore the cam lock bar won't be necessary. Now if you do want to buy the cam and crank lock tools, I'd recommend Koch Tools. Well-made and nicely finished, I've got mine displayed on the garage wall for decoration.
 
#3 ·
On the V6, one CCA is at the rear of the engine, and the other is at the front. (That way they could build two identical, instead of mirror image, cylinder heads.) For the front one, I don't see how you could remove it w/o pulling the cam sprocket, which would require using a cam lock bar. I have the ($$$) Schwaben cam lock bar for my 1996 12-valver and my son's 2000 2.7T, and it has been a lifesaver.
 
#4 ·
I think he may be able to sneak the drivers side CCT out with the timing belt in place. The key would be removing the nuts and bolts holding the rear part of the timing belt cover. and you would want to do this first incase you need to rotate the engine to get access to the bolts behind the timing belt sprocket.

The nuts and bolts are pictured here. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/295483-how-v6-cam-chain-tensioner-gaskets.html

As for the cam locking bar. the ECS price is crazy. You can get them any number of places for much less money. And, even though I got the VW OE one from Snap On $75, I've never seen a bad one. Even the $49 ebay specials seem to be just fine. Ok well there was the guy that thought he could make one out of a 2x4 and some screws, that didn't work well.
 
#10 ·
Damn -- I wish I had checked that before blindly following my son's advice and buying the Schwaben tool from ECS. Anyway, I'll reiterate my standing offer to San Diego area folks who want to borrow either it or any of my other specialty tools, including an O2 sensor crows foot wrench, a full VCDS, and a Motiv brake bleeding pressure tank.

Edit, even though that first one claims to work on the AFC 12-valve engine, it looks to be of fixed length, and the fine print says it works for 30-valve engines only. I need both widths, and the Schwaben tool is adjustable to accommodate my 12-valve and my son's 2.7T, as well as anyone's 30-valve 2.8.
 
#7 ·
Yes you can remove cct without touching the timing belt you only have to pull the intake camshaft and the timing belt gear is on the exhaust camshaft so therefore you do not have to touch the timing belt and I do believe there's bolts for rear cover behind the gear I don't remember it's been a while so tackle that first before you get it all apart and cannot turn the gear. The book tells you that you have to pull both camshafts but you do not have to do that it's a little tricky but it is possible I have done it on several V-6 engines, hope this helps!:wrench: it works on either cylinder head Driver side or passenger side it doesn't matter.
 
#8 ·
Word to the wise: I would do this job by the book... keep in mind you need to replace both tensioners.
John_E actually mentioned this. While Bank2 (driver side) has the tensioner in the front - so you'll have no problems as far as clearance and line of sight, Bank1 (passenger side) has the tensioner at the back of the head.
There's not much room there even if you remove all the s**t out of the way, but to blindly hover over the head and trying to guess if you set the gasket perfectly or not without actually seeing what you're doing it's not a walk-in-the park proposition as you may think. You have the EGR valve in the way, a bunch of hoses and wires around... you'll see for yourself.
I wouldn't take this lightly - the guy posting the DIY didn't even make photos, and, even less so, has no pics for the passenger side included.
It's your car though, proceed as you please. Good luck
 
#12 ·
John,
you are right.
Though I didn't have in mind the 12v AFC when posting those links, if it fits the AFC, then it cannot fit the ATQ. It is simple as that, as neither those tools in the links are adjustable.
You actually can use yours on both, so don't think you made a bad purchase despite the price.
I have the one for the AFC (I got a 12v A6, too) and I had to buy the one for the ATQ - which is longer (or wider, depending on how one would consider the dimensions).
-
By the way, I had a Schwaben caliper piston retracting (or compressing is better said) tool and it broke on the first use. The cheap set I bought from Harbor Freight is still up and kicking...
 
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