I have recently bought a 98 1.8t with over heating issues and from what i have reserched its the water pump, the guy i got it from took it to a "import" shop and they told him the head gasket is out. 1. the shop is no longer open 2. no water in the oil. im going to say the water pump. ill be replacing the pump/therm/coolent this weekend. I figure for 500 its a hell of a deal and i figured why not make it bigger better and go choo.chooo more! so i looked in to some parts and found a stroking kit to make it an 2.0 but it was a good chunk of money and dont jettas have 2.0 with the same block. what stops me from getting a jetta crank shaft and pistons save money. and does any one know of a good chip for like 400 or so? and injectors? im thinking about getting all the parts together anf to the little things during the summer and then manifolds/heads/turbo/bottom end during the winter. after that im not sure go race honda civics after that.
The solution to systems not working on a car is not to bypass them. What if you forget to flip the switch?
Fortunately, the auxiliary fan system on the 1.8T isn't all that complex. You can check the fuses and relays (they're in the auxiliary relay panel, up inside the dash) but The most common failures are the fan itself and the thermal fan switch at the bottom of the radiator. If the fan NEVER comes on, feed it 12V directly to test. If it comes on with the AC, but not with engine heat, check the thermal fan switch.
question time, should i be able to stop the fan with my bare hand? even after the motors warm its easy to stop and after i.turn.it off it spins and spins for a good 45 seconds... bad fan clutch?
For shits and giggles i'm going to do a block test as soon as i have time and see if that tells me anything... so an update will be in about a week or so between school and work just don't have anytime.
did the block test and it resulted with nothing, did the test just like it said and nothing, so i checked everything over flush the cooling system and took it for a drive got a couple miles and she hit 200F pulled over and let it cool down. she got to 150F so i took of, heres the new problem i was slowing down for a corner and took it out of gear to let it roll, rounded the corner and pushed the clutch and put it in 2nd (going 25-30) and let the clutch out and the pedle stayed there i throw it out of gear turned it off and hurryed up and pulled over. the pedle will move by hand and you can hear the gears change but as we towed it home there was a horrible grinding from the drivers tire. the whole time i was driving never had the rpms over 4500 and never speed shifted... im scared shitless now... help
The clutch is hydraulic. It works the same as your brakes. There is a master cylinder driven by the clutch pedal then a hydraulic line that goes to a slave cylinder. The slave cylinder pushes the fork to release the clutch assembly. You may have a hydraulic failure or a mechanical clutch failure. I don't know what the grinding noise was. How was the car towed?
were is the master cylinder for the clutch? and i'm thinking the clutch its self is "in" any thoughts? and tow rope and truck hooked to the tow hook on the front of the car. and the grinding noise only happens once every rotation... so maybe the breaks? I plan on taring in to it tonight.
Ok so now that the snow has fallen and my truck is out the shop its time to drag this ole slut in and do some work, plan on dropping motor and tranny and start work, things i plan on new head/cams/timing gear, possibly pistons and rods, then clutch and the big turbo kit. If anyone can point me to some good quality parts/sites, I have been looking around but could use a helping hand!
If I were in your place, I'd start with a stable, running vehicle, and THEN upgrade. Get your clutch working, and run for a few weeks without any catastrophe occurring. Otherwise, you are likely to blow something important the second you put some oomph into your car after your upgrades. Yes, this means you'll have to do some major surgery a second time...
Why are you upgrading pistons and rods, but don't have a big turbo on your list? If there's nothing wrong with the ones in the engine now, why upgrade them (I'm assuming to heavier-duty versions) without a big turbo, engine tune, and assoc. fuel system upgrades? And is something wrong with the head or cams you have now?
I guess you might want to go into more detail on your overall plan before you are going to get much advice.
i found the master cylinder to be bad so that was that problem, and basically just upgrading everything, and when i said the big turbo kit i figured people would understand everything it takes. but ya there will be a tuned ecu upgraded injectors and fuelpump, intake,TB, all the goodies
OK so turbo wise i have a buddy who is building a 12v cummins and he'll have the factory turbo from that but i'm also looking at a k04 or a G20... My goal is to be able to run 15-17 psi with out it grenading. That's the goal! or to get damn close to it. There will be a whole lot of custom piping so air intakes really don't matter now because it will most likely stick out the hood depending on what turbo i pick.
please dont do that to your car. installing an old ass cummins turbo is going to have ridiculous lag. you wont start spooling til well over 4k and you're going to destroy your motor.
buy a real turbo thats made for these cars, that isnt 100 years old.
I don't think either a "test pipe" or bigger injectors will really do much to a car with the stock turbo. The stock cat and fueling system simply aren't bottlenecks with the stock turbo. (In addition to the test pipe making the car nigh-unsellable, since it can never be legally registered anywhere, and can't even be illegally registered in any county that does emissions inspections. Not to mention it is indeed bad for the environment.)
I don't recall any available K03 tune listing fuel system upgrades (either injectors or FPR) as a requirement.
17 psi through a K03 and 17 psi through a big turbo are two different amounts of flow. Think MAF, not PSI.
A K03 will give you almost immediate spool and power. They can provide a good torque spike down lower in the rpm range then power will drop off as the rpms go up and the engines breathing surpass the flow capabilities of the turbo. That turbo was chosen because its flow characteristics and behavior are matched well to how an average Passat is driven. They weren't designing race cars, they were designing practical sedans. That turbo really shines in the rpm ranges and airflow rates of normal driving.
A K04 will have almost as quick a spool (slight more lag) but it will be able to make more power and continue to make it into the higher RPM range before running out of breath.
A larger turbo will lag longer before you hit boost but when it hits it will make more power and make it higher in the rpm range.
Choosing a turbo size is a trade off. Think about what you want to do with the car, how you want it to behave, what environment it's driven in. How much lag can you tolerate?
If you are pushing that much power to the ground, you are going to need the largest tires you can fit (for bigger contact patches), upgraded axles (I don't think Marty at Raxles offers them any more, don't know where else to get them...), in addition to your upgraded clutch and internals.
emissions don't worry me, in South Dakota we don't have to worry about it, and no one ask questions. And as far a turbo it was a though, its larger than a k04 but not by much and i'd have to rebuild it just for me to feel good, its a cheaper way than getting the k04 set up i'd just build with what i got on the cheap.
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