Long start up

[Twista]

So the past few days Ive been getting long start ups. I recently changed to ngk 7e plugs last weekend and for the first two days everything was fine. Now when I go to start up after a cold start it takes about 3-5 seconds for it to catch??? I also noticed that in 1st gear with my new chip I would spin tires in first gear and now that does not happen anymore even though Im not counting that as a bad thing. I gapped the plugs to about .28. Im running a AEB with the ICM module so that should be the correct gap right?? When I took the old plugs out they were all gapped around .40. Should I try a new gap or switch the plugs back??? I thought with a chip it was alright to run colder plugs.

[DaOneEnOnly]

Any codes? Maybe your Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor is on it's way out.

[MirceaM]

People suggest cleaning your MAF sensor.

[Twista]

Will try cleaning maf this weekend, no codes as the engine light is off and otherwise the car doesn't give me any other problems. No hesitations or stuttering just long start ups on a cold engine

[vbora01]

I run the colder plugs, but that's after performing the ICM delete on my AEB. The stock AEB plug was a double grounded plug (BKR6EK), while the newer engines got a single ground plug (BKR6E) with bolt on, then later push down, coils. The difference being that the bolt/push on coils have the igniters/signal built into the coil itself. I performed the ICM delete because I had issues within my ignition system that I wasn't willing to diagnose (early on in ownership,) and the cost of the delete was cheaper than buying a new ICM. This is pulling at strings here, but it could be a weak spark issue, which of course, works itself out once the car is running because the battery's voltage increases into the 14V range.

[Twista]

sounds like a possibility, since my car does this now everytime i do a cold start im gonna try and jump the battery to a running car tomorrow morning just to see if it starts any quicker.

[roadsterred]

Your fuel pump may be failing. Connect a Fuel Pressure Gauge to your fuel injection manifold before doing a cold start. Turn the starter and time how quickly the fuel system pressure gets to 46 psi and above. It should take only a second or more. If it takes any longer, your fuel pump suction/pickup tube may be clogged or the fuel pump may be failing. The reason you don't have this problem with a warm start is because the on a warm start there is residual pressure in the fuel injection system. This residual pressure gradually reduces to zero as the engine starts to cool.

[Steve in Chicago]

First try throwing the old plugs back in and see if that has any effect on this problem.
Is the starter cranking over slower or at the regular speed when you're experiencing the long start up?
I have a fuel pressure gauge if you want to borrow it.

Not related to the start up problem... Have you upgraded your diverter valve or are you still running the original with 200,000 miles on a chipped car?

[bvariant]

You might add coolant temp sensor to the list of possibilities.

There seem to be varying opinions about whether it's worse when warm or cold starting, but the thread at the bottom suggests anything can happen. G62 is the ECU-directed portion of the sensor, G2 is the dash gauge. VCDS mostly gives you G62 data, so you could try checking that, too.

What causes intermittent no start?

[Steve in Chicago]

VCDS mostly gives you G62 data, so you could try checking that, too.

VCDS will give you the ECM readings of that sensor in the ECM controller and the dash gauge readings of that sensor in the instrumentation controller. A good test is from cold start to look at the readings in the one controller then switch to the other controller and compare. Keep switching back and forth between controllers as the engine warms up. The two readings should remain relatively close to each other as they rise to operating temperature.

[bvariant]

VCDS will give you the ECM readings of that sensor in the ECM controller and the dash gauge readings of that sensor in the instrumentation controller. A good test is from cold start to look at the readings in the one controller then switch to the other controller and compare. Keep switching back and forth between controllers as the engine warms up. The two readings should remain relatively close to each other as they rise to operating temperature.

Duh! I had looked through a number of the preset engine measuring blocks groups that included temp data and wasn't finding one that recorded the instrument gauge data. Thanks!

[Twista]

Well the fuel pump was actually replaced about two years ago. As that was the first problem I ever had with this car. The car turns over normally, it doesnt slow down or anything. Remember steve I got two batteries in my car so dead batteries shouldnt be a problem with both batteries being less than two years old as well lol.

Also I am running the stock DV right now. Was gonna upgrade just was trying to decide on which one would be the way to go. Ive also been buying motorcycle parts right now so my car is on the back burner for the next few months.

[Twista]

Well i just jump started the car to 14 volts and it still took about 5 seconds for the car to start. Gonna throw the old plugs in tomorrow and see what happens...

[Steve in Chicago]

Gonna throw the old plugs in tomorrow and see what happens.

I'm interested to see the results of that test.

As for an upgraded diverter valve, the Audi TT 225hp 710N valve is about $45 at the Audi dealer. It'll hold chipped K03 or K04 pressure just fine. It's a diaphragm style valve like your original so It doesn't need periodic cleaning and lubricating like some of the more expensive piston style valves do.

[Twista]

Well I switched out the spark plugs and still got the same start up time. Talked to one of my friends and he thought maybe the fuel filter was clogged and I remembered that I didnt change the fuel filter since i bought the car and had a filter stored in my garage so I went ahead and changed it. Got everything apart and noticed a rip in the rubber line connecting the filter to the rest of the fuel line running towards the front of the car. Im guessing that was the problem as it was causing a weak fuel pressure. Replaced the rubber hose and fuel filter so we shall see how it starts up later on tonight. So far its been kicking right up but need to see what happens when its cold. I guess this chip is causing all my 200k old parts to finally fail huh....lol

[vbora01]

I guess this chip is causing all my 200k old parts to finally fail huh....lol

Not on mine