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Anyone want to play a game????
My 2003 2.8 wagon won't start and is not getting compression.
It did not jump time. The time belt is moving. The timing belt kit was done at 71k. I have 80k now.
A compression test was run and we are getting no compression?
What is your guess?
I bet the timing jumped and you've got bent valves on all cylinders.
That's about the only thing that will cause no compression on both heads.
If you blew a head gasket, you would lose some cylinders but probably not all six.
Just because you see the timing belt moving when you crank the engine does not mean it is still "in time".
A roller or tensioner could have failed and allowed the belt to jump a few teeth but still stay on all the cogs and be moving when the engine cranks over.
Check timing by lining up all the marks.
It shouldn't take long to figure this out. Remove the upper timing belt covers. Turn the crank pully until the timing mark aligns with the pointer on the plastic cover. Check the cam alignment plates; do the two holes in each line up perfectly horizontal? If you have the cam holding tool, does it fit (plates could be rotated 180 degrees, still horizontal, but to install tool the large holes face inwards). If not, something wasn't right and the cams are out of sync. Valves bent.
Well it appears i need a valve job..... Problem with the oil compression caused the engine to die....
I think I will just get a new engine from VW. it will cost a grand more. sucks but what are you going to do....
What does this mean?Originally Posted by Trout
I am guessing oil is not getting to the head and sludge had built up in the engine. The oil pump maybe dead????
where in/near Wallingford are you getting this information? you need to ask for specific info, NOW. what are the compression numbers per cylinder?
the 2.8 is not sludge prone, nor are there any instances of oil pump failure or clogging on this engine. in order for valve damage to have caused this, the belt would have had to jump 2 or more teeth - and I have not seen any evidence that leads any of us to believe this.
also, most timing belt work is guaranteed for 12 months/12,000 miles at most reputable shops. how long have you owned the car? did you pay for the timing belt to be changed, or...?
you need to provide us with loads more information. anything and everything you can tell us will help us figure this out.
99 GLS, 2.8 V6, Leather, Cold Weather pkg, driven 120 miles/day, Mon-Fri
I has a sig!
I just talked to the owner of the shop. I am getting a 40 compression reading on all cylinders.
The valve timing is right on.
He mention that the car uses hydrolic lifters and they can become over extended and overpressurized. It could be because of an oil pump or relief valve.
The cost of a valve job is around 6 grand.
The car was burning oil and i would lose a quart every 1k to 2k miles.
A 2.8 is hardly even broken-in at 80,000. You've got something going on that your mechanic doesn't know or isn't telling you.
I think the problem is on the bottom end. They said the timing was ok, but I don't know for sure. This is upsetting. I could send it to another place. There is a VW dealer one town over. No matter what it needs a valve job. The VW dealer said they would replace the head, dont know the cost. I saw a used engine for 1,250 with 88k that I could drop in and save a lot of money.
I highly recommend you GO TO ANOTHER SHOP NOW.
go to an independent VW/Audi mechanic. I don't know where you have the car right now, but I would not trust them at all, based on what you are telling us.
99 GLS, 2.8 V6, Leather, Cold Weather pkg, driven 120 miles/day, Mon-Fri
I has a sig!
Yup, a lot of sketchy information being thrown around in here - but nothing that actually explains why you'd need a new engine. I'd certainly tow the car to another shop.
Your mechanic is hinky at best. I have 218k on a v6. Didn't do a belt on it till 110k. I'm not gentle with it but it just smiles and asks for more. I see no way to explain low compression on all cylinders other than bent valves and a skipped or missing belt. The crap he's trying to sell you doesn't make sense. Listen to Jay. Run, don't walk to a reputable VW specific shop.
definatly go to a different mechanic. I might be putting it to simple but you could have a bad head gasket. that would explain some of the compression issues maybe
Two bad head gaskets, and somehow causing all six cylinders to leak the same, if the story is correct.
I had 293K on the bottom end of my V6, before an accident claimed it. if you are getting 40, it seems as if the timing is off. This may be due to low oil pressure (neglected oil level or the rare bad pump) and having the CCT's not fully extend. This is how my V6 acted when I changed heads and the CCT's were off a tooth.
This is what I was thinking after doing some reading. Thinking I would need to change the heads, cct, and oil pump.... 293kWOW!!!!
260K on mine...
99 GLS, 2.8 V6, Leather, Cold Weather pkg, driven 120 miles/day, Mon-Fri
I has a sig!
Your not that far from one of the best Audi/Volkswagen repair shops around, Edge Motors.
That is awesome! Can't believe you drive that much a year.
I really appreciate the feedback. Regardless of the issue it is a mess and I have made my peace to fix the car. I love my v6 wagon and look forward to keeping it going for a long time.
If the valve covers are removed, the cams can be placed at TDC by looking at the keyways on the cams and aligning them with the triangular "arrow" on the bearing cap. This will place the exhaust cam at TDC, and the intake cams can be checked for TDC. Also make sure the crank is at TDC as well.
Do you or your mechanic have the Cam Bar/Crank pin to keep the heads/Crank in proper position? The Cam Bar is used to align the cams to TDC. The crank pin keeps the crank at TDC. TDC on the V6 is on cylinder 3, not cylinder 1.
Going to dealer tomorrow. The store manager/ ex-service manager called me today.
Wow. That sucks. I feel bad for you, man; I've been there.
here's one to ya.
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