00' B5 Passat GLX is ago

[99jimse]

I've been hooding crazy from day to night & I swear not sleeping at night for weeks now over my choice to totaling restore/modify my 00' Passat or 99' Maxima(bought it new). Love them both & if it was just to make faster it would of been the Maxima ( easy to drop in 3.5 w/ cams & turbo). But it really can not touch Passat everywhere else. Also the Passat ( formally my nieces from my parents but gave it back when she got new car) was a gift from my parents when my Blazer was down. My niece disrespected it by doing minimal repair & maintenance. But still, my parents r in their 80s (I'm 37) & to be honest I'm scared everyday of loading them. So to me with this car I will always feel close to them (stating this for the people who will want to say " why r u spending so much $ on a old 00'") so I driven the car some but not much because my (dam) niece gave it back with a few issues. 1) Pass. window is stuck down cause of broke regulator or motor, easy fix. (2) body is very good except driver headlight has duct tape helping to hold in place (I think mounting holes or bracket on headlight broke), still easy fix. (3) the BIG 1. When from a stop ( then going forward or reverse) or coasting, if u hit gas hard to accelerate fast u get a loud BANG, not so easy fix but I will. Also, i believe it does it as well when hitting brake hard (quick stop) from cruising in forward or backward motion. After the bang it drives smooth again until I repeat 1 of the above situations. No clicking on turns so I believe outer CV joints r good or at least not the cause. So maybe inner CV joint/s, the transaxle (please NO), motor or tranny mount/s, or suspension component/s. This Saturday I will be putting it in my canopy garage (my house garage is full of my motorcycles) n putting all 4 corners up in the air ( will be doing repair/maintenance from head2toe be4 it sees the road again). This is not a rush job as I am a, "do it right the 1st time", kind of guy. I will be making a blog of start to finish of any & everything I do to document & maybe down the road help people new to the VW car game. Be4 I became a family man I had only owned all American muscle cars ( 80' Vette w/ over 25g's invested in drive train & suspension alone, (2)79' Z28s & a 69' RS Camaro all old school bodies w/ 2000' tech. inside & underneath & (1) 79' Ford F150 monster truck w/ a modified 400ci. engine, 40" Mickey T's, 12" body lift, etc. etc.) I bought my Maxima just so I could have something totally dependable as in
a warranty. From there I was like, dam, these FWD imports r pretty bad ass. Anyway, ya I can go off on tangents fast & easy & I like the () keys. I will report my findings & hope to hear any comments from u guys. I'm a local 200 plumber as well & maybe can help u out that way also. JIMMY

[TheColoradoRed]

I don't think anyone here is in a place to judge you for spending big $$$ on a 13 year old car - we've all been there...

The loud bang sounds like the snub mount to me if it's only happening on stops/starts. Put the engine in gear and hold the ebrake up, have someone watch the engine for movement while you rev it up. The rest are easy fixes, window motor and headlights are easy enough to replace.

Welcome to the club Jimbo, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

[99jimse]

Hey RedMan, thanks for the welcome. Definitely gonna check for the snub like u said, yes. Never heard of a snub ( maybe called something else with American?). Im exciting to test it out but of coarse running out for my sons baseball practice. When I get home I'll do some searches on here & Utube for it also.

[keithwbloom]

The loud bang sounds like the snub mount to me if it's only happening on stops/starts. Put the engine in gear and hold the ebrake up, have someone watch the engine for movement while you rev it up.

Yep, sounds like a snub mount. The snub mount is just a stout pin with a dense polyurethane foam cover that then fits into a slightly larger receptacle on the lower radiator support and keeps the front of the engine from torquing off center on the liquid filled side engine mounts, while still allowing for a little up and down movement.

If yours has never been replaced, it has probably long since disintegrated away. That would leave the stout pin unprotected and able to move until the hard frame of the radiator support stops it with a loud klunk, or a bang.

I also have a V6, and you can see my lower radiator support snub mount receptacle in this picture:



Mine was only 9 years old and you can see the residue it was shedding before I replaced it with an APR dense polyurethane (not foam) snub.

The pin the snub mount goes onto is the thumb sized stub in the bottom 7 o'clock position on the front of the engine:



If that stubby pin has no protection, you can imagine the bang you might get when it hits the metal socket with force under acceleration.

FWIW, you don't have to remove the front end to replace the snub mount, there are DIY how-tos on this site that will walk you through it. I had my front end off in this picture so I could to timing belt and cam cover gasket replacements.

[TheColoradoRed]

I'm not sure the American name for it, but it's the front most motor mount.

Here's a link to help you out:
DIY Write-up: Snub Mount replacement on B5.5 2.8 V6 (pics)

FWIW, you don't have to remove the front end to replace the snub mount, there are DIY how-tos on this site that will walk you through it. I had my front end off in this picture so I could to timing belt and cam cover gasket replacements.

I think you actually do have to have it off, else there isn't enough room. There was one write up without bringing the car to service position, but the OP had previously replaced bolts the with smaller/easier accessible ones. So for the OEM bolts for a snub that hasn't been changed, there isn't enough room without pulling the front end.

If that stubby pin has no protection, you can imagine the bang you might get when it hits

Yes. Protection is necessary.

[passatro]

I had that kind of noise you describe and mine was one of the sway bar links loose on one end. Also, I would check control arms(you said car was neglected).

[99jimse]

Awesome replies guys. Just got home from coaching baseball for my sons travel team. Keith (thank u again for directing me out of Noob section. I'd still be waiting there like, do I smell? Why won't they talk to me?) those pics r TITS! With them & ur discription of placement, locations, & cause-n-effect, I'm 100% caught up & on board. I think u & RedMan (if that bothers u sorry just tell me) nailed it, with bare minimum being it's shot & still needs to be replaced. Thanks Red for link. If I read the same Write-Up as u about BrotherMan (OP) who did job without taking front end off, he cut a Allen (hex) key 3/8" long end to end, inserted one end into bolt & put a box-end wrench onto bare remaining Allen sticking out of bolt ( which according to him is 3/16" ). Please correct me if I'm wrong. FYI, (wow 1st time saying that) u can get a 2in1 ratcheting tool that will take the place of the box-end wrench. Its half the girth (thickness) of standard & ratcheting box-end wrenches with like 10ish degree pitched head. One end takes bits
( Allen,torq,square,flat&phillips etc.), the other end has 1/4" square drive. I am a tool freak, if I don't have it I want it & will get it.
Also, passatro, u r right as well thanks. It could be sway bar, control arms, or both. Again, bare min. is ALL bushings etc. for suspension at this point MUST be shot or on way out. I will be replacing ALL of them. I'll find the culprit this weekend if not sooner & let u guys know. Oh & be4 I go, Keith, Stubby Pin(no it's not); Bang(yes please); Protection(ahh dam it); Hits(ya I did!) & that's the best I got, I'm out.

[99jimse]

Well it definitely is snub mount. With hood opened n me hitting the gas w/ E-brake on, dam that motor can jump. Since I want this to be very performance oriented as I go on, I'm researching which 1s the v6 super charged boys like. I'm going make video of where pin is & how it moves when testing for bad snub so maybe it can help others. Gonna try to keep blog of wat I do for maintenance & repair. Just very new to posting on a forum so will be trying to learn. Also will be checking today for suspension wear.

[TheColoradoRed]

There's a PES G2 supercharger for sale right now in the classifieds! You should go for it, great price for the charger, all hardware, injectors, belt, and tuned ECU (might need a reflash, idk).

As for the snub mount, I had a feeling (read: had same problem, engine hopped like a mother fuck). But it's easy enough to fix yourself. I have ratcheting wrenches that I LOVE, so I think that's a good bet too.

Also no, I don't mind redman Real (non Internet) name is Aaron btw

Good luck Jimbo, looking forward to seeing what's in store!

[keithwbloom]

There's a PES G2 supercharger for sale right now in the classifieds! You should go for it, great price for the charger, all hardware, injectors, belt, and tuned ECU (might need a reflash, idk).

His '00 B5 V6 will have AHA engine so the ECU included with SC should be plug and play unless it needs to be adapted for Tip. Go for it Jimbo!




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[99jimse]

Guys I have the chance to pick up a 99.5 b5 A4 1.8t quatro tomorrow for $500. The motor was blown with 64k on the car. Front end bump/lights/seats/windshield r sold but everything else is there. Trans is all good. Since like I said I'm in this for the long run & want minimum 350 hp ( ya I'm all over that 30v V6 turbo set-up their talking about on scAudi or S.C.). I want to swap out fwd setup for awd. Please correct me if I'm wrong cause I need to know ASAP that the 2 r interchangeable. From what I've read bother r B5s so it's a go. Is this true?

[keithwbloom]

PM answered. The answer is no go. Reasons explained in PM. Sorry.

[99jimse]

Thanks Keith for quick response. Good news or bad u helped once again. Still thinking of getting to make more $ in long run for the passat. If I part out engine parts still good, tranny, Quatro system, suspension, brakes n wheels, body, interior, n so on, shouldn't I make a good profit? Was about to put my Maxima up for part out in craigslist, maxima.org, n nycmaximas.org. I never did part out be4. Would love if some1 with experience doing part outs could give me some advice or feedback on how they go.
RedMan, Keith, that super charger looks hot.I read why that guy is get rid of n that has me worried. N.Y. is right behind Cali. With smog shit. If he had to take off does that mean I will too in a yr or 2? I need to find out cause I'm really nervous now. But, if all is good, I'm not sure if the SC is for me. From my reading it's good for 275hp maybe 300hp fully tuned with headers n exhaust.
I'm going for 350ish hp but even more important to me minimum 350 tq. If not something like the 2.8 turbo setup thats on SCaudi than a 2.7t conversion. Yes a lot of work but so what. That's why planning out route now for trans n driveline. Either gonna get a awd passat wreak or Quiafe. Those r no joke and there's a good reason why they have lifetime warranty. I've seen 400-450hp
Maxima's ( oh yes completely dyno'd n tuned) with Quiafe n not have issues putting it to the ground. Most have R axles. I might have to switch to a manual though for Quiafe. I know for Maximas it had to be manual. Ill look into that.
Here's my situation for parts though. Have only like $600 in cash on hand for parts. Then $1600 in Sears gift cards ( been saving them up for good 80 gal 5 hp compressor). The rest of my $ is in the form of a Maxima n 01' blazer. Also might be selling 2 of my quads n a 78' xs400E I'm in the process of doing ground up custom with. Now that I'm thinking about it I have brand new Harley parts I bought for my custom Softail but never used. Ok, I got to get on the ball. By tomorrow night I will have done.

[keithwbloom]

Jimbo... That v6 turbo project is going to cost you at least three times the getting price for that G2 and it is gonna take quite a build to get the numbers you want. You're for one going to have to swap out your 2.8 short block for 2.7. The 2.8 bottom only has two bolt mains, and will not stand up safely to the power you are hoping for.

You should probably just source a 2.7TT swap from an S4, but then you mayhave transmission issues cause you are just FWD.

The G2 is not gonna last long at that price. Emissions are effected greatly by the tune you pump into the G2. Running rich is going to wreak havoc on your cats and make the sniffer alarm beep at inspection. Get a good tune, your emissions should be 49 state friendly for years.




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