LED tails for B5

[Steve in Chicago]

I placed 4 horizontal rows (6 LED's per row) in the board.
Put another board on top of the components and rubber banded them together to keep all the components seated.
Flipped the board over and using bare 22 ga solid copper wire, laid a conductor down each row, wrapping the legs of the components as I went.
Then touched each leg with solder.
Then clipped out some sections of conductor to leave an in/out path along each row of 6 LEDs. (now 6 LEDs wired in series)


Top row, just the component legs sticking through.
Rubber band.
Second row, wire laid and wrapped.
Third & fourth rows, soldered and clipped. (and another rubber band)


I laid another set of conductors vertically down each end so all 4 horizontal rows are now wired in parallel to each other.


This is the panel set into the tail light housing turn signal section.


Powered at 12.7v (2.1v drop across each LED). In the photo the light looks red but in real life these LEDs are yellow. (camera effecting the color)


First layer of diffuser added. (This one is a bit chipped/cracked/melted from multiple tests and fittings)


Second layer of diffuser added. (also a bit abused, but I'm just testing for effect right now)


Tail light cover fitted. (you can see the magnifying lamp in the reflection )


End results... It's not bright enough. You can still see brighter and darker spots where the LEDs are and aren't. Next I'm going to double up the bulbs and see how that goes.

[2stroke]

As a ( Wagon ) owner I must encourage your work !


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I'm trying to modify my B5 tail lights to have the LED look of some of the newer cars out there.
I've yet to see something aftermarket that I like.
One of my bosses has a Cadillac Deville with factory LED tails.
These tails create a solid panel of light with no bright spot in the center.
The entire panel goes on/off, simply appearing and disappearing as one uniform block of light.
There are two sections of panel on the Cadi tail so it can indicate running, brake, turn lighting.
I'm going for a similar effect, with solid, uniform blocks of light flicking on/off without the glow-on/glow-off of incandescent lights and no "hot spot" in the center.

[Steve in Chicago]

I just ordered another pile of LEDs.

Sent from the "More is Better" engineering department.

[Steve in Chicago]

I doubled up the number of LEDs with the parts I have on hand (bulbs ordered for both fixtures put into one fixture).


Was 4, but is now 8 strings of 6-LEDs.


First layer of diffuser.


Second layer of diffuser.


Outer shell.


LED turn signal on left. Standard incandescent bulb turn signal in stock fixture on right.


It's brighter, but still not bright enough. The effect is better as far as not seeing individual bulbs and looking more like a uniform block of light.
I took it all apart and started over placing the LEDs end to end and filling the board with no gaps at all. I hope that gets me the brightness I'm after. I want it to be slightly brighter then stock. Having the lights packed so close might allow me to delete one (or both) layers of diffuser and still get the "solid block of light" effect.

[soundguybob]

Keep it up, Steve! I've been wanting to do this for a very long time, but have simply been to busy to get to it! For the sake of time, I'd be VERY interested in buying pre-fabbed boards to install in my tails, if you'd ever consider building some to sell...

[gostivar]

Great job! Best B5 taillights ever made.

[euroblood]

very nifty!

check this out

[Steve in Chicago]

very nifty!

check this out

Cool little device that really does a nice variety of effects. The website from Keith has some similar devices. exLEDSHOP by LEDSTUDiO.Corp.,

I was behind one of the newer mustangs today that had sequential turns and sequential brakes. Too bad our tail lights don't lend themselves to a sequential effect.

I started populating a board at maximum density. I had to hand file all four sides of every bulb to fit them this close. All the yellow bulbs I have (54) only got me a little over a third coverage (138 to completely cover this board in strings of 6). I spent several hours yesterday and several more today just to get this far. This is not going to pan out. The amount of hours it would take to do all the boards like this is too much.





After getting this done I tested it and found one string of 6 not lighting. While troubleshooting I lost another string. Everything is packed too close to troubleshoot easily. I need to change direction.
Maybe a different (brighter) LED that I don't need to pack so tightly is the answer.

[euroblood]

caddy tails arent ultra bright as far as i know...

[2stroke]

I started populating a board at maximum density.
I had to hand file all four sides of every bulb to fit them this close.
I spent several hours yesterday and several more today just to get this far.
This is not going to pan out. The amount of hours it would take to do all the boards like this is too much.

After getting this done I tested it and found one string of 6 not lighting.
While troubleshooting I lost another string.
Everything is packed too close to troubleshoot easily.
I need to change direction.
Maybe a different (brighter) LED that I don't need to pack so tightly is the answer.

Yes, you need to get some high output SMD LED's with RED light.

Keep up the good work.

[Steve in Chicago]

Caddy tails aren't ultra bright as far as I know...

I think you're right. I'll have to look around and notice today.
But, but, but More is Better!

[Steve in Chicago]

Yes, you need to get some high output SMD LED's with RED light.

These are rated at 10 lumins. Through-hole or SMD isn't the issue. SMD would be harder to work with. If you know of an LED with better specs, let me know because that's probably the solution. The LEDs I'm working with now are .25 cents each. I can't afford to use $4 LEDs if I'm using several hundred per fixture. I'd end up with $1,000 tail lights. I'm working with both red and yellow LEDs (for the different compartments of the fixture).

A small tip soldering tool might be in order.

[gostivar]

when will these hit the market...??

[Steve in Chicago]

When will these hit the market...??

That's not in the plans at the moment. So far, materials plus time involved would make it cost prohibitive to a buyer. Now If I happen to strike on a final design that doesn't cost too much in materials and fabrication time, I'll consider it. At this stage of development, that's looking unlikely.

When you stopped by, I should have showed you the LED replacement bulbs in stock tails that I'm currently running. They look pretty cool. That's what got me started on this whole "make your own Caddi style" project.

So far, this is just a labor of love. Or is that insanity? (there is a fine line between the two with lots of gray area)

[keithwbloom]

SMD would be harder to work with.

I disagree. You are going to go blind Steve. And grind your teeth to the gums while you sleep.

You should tin up the pads on one side that would mount some 5mm SMDs and jump the pads on the other side with solder bridges or use interconnected project boards you can scratch or subtract from to make array circuits. Far faster, even without SMD workstation. A 1/32 or 1/16 tip is a must though.

I can't believe how much work you have done with through hole components. Wow!





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[Steve in Chicago]

I like the technique you outlined, Keith. That would be much easier. I've done almost no work with SMDs. The few instances I did, turned out to be a struggle. You're also right about the soldering pencil. The one I'm using has a tip the size of a 10 penny nail. And, I AM going blind. lol.

I feel my frustration level approaching my enjoyment level. Before frustration exceeds enjoyment, I need to rethink and change tack. To that end, I picked up a cheap desk today at the Salvation army and am converting it into a workstation for small things (solder, Dremel...etc). The spare bedroom that has, over time, turned into a storage locker will get turned into a project work space.



I just ordered these... 10pcs LM2596 Step Down Adjustable Power Supply Module Output DC 1 5V 35V | eBay

Set at the LEDs normal running voltage, I won't need to run anything in series. I can plant as many LEDs as I like without worrying about the total number being a multiple of 6. This will simplify things a bit.

[keithwbloom]

Working with SMDs Is super easy. You tin the pads where you want the SMD to sit and then you place the SMD on top of the tinned pads and touch the corner of the tinned pad with your soldering iron and it will quickly remelt and the SMD will be connected.

Add a third hand and a couple sets of fine point tweezers to your work table.

🚘 🇩🇪


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[Steve in Chicago]

And... an STS-1 sequencer WebElectric Products - Sequential Turn Signals, Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Daytime Running Lights, L

The idea being, break the turn signal PCB into three sections of lights that will light up in sequence.

[Steve in Chicago]

And this too...

Weller WESD51 50 Watt Digital Adjustable Soldering Station
Weller Solder Soldering Station WESD51 50 Watt Digital Adjustable New | eBay

[Steve in Chicago]

Update: I haven't given up. I'm waiting on some things on order. I've cleared some room and am setting up a bench for this type of work. Soldering this stuff on a TV dinner stand was not cutting it.

[Matt98B5]

Good work Steve! Keep us posted. I used a nice analog temperature controlled Weller soldering iron/pencil recently, and it was night and day to the cheap-o iron I have at home. Now that's on my wish list. It should make things go quicker, and give a better finished product (not that you're not doing a great job already )

[Steve in Chicago]

Turn signal PCB populated at maximum density. I had to file all four sides of each LED a bit because they are ever so slightly too big to fit edge to edge.


This time I've wired all the LEDs in parallel. I'm going to feed them regulated 2.2vdc so no matter what the battery/charging voltage is, they will get a constant 2.2v. The LEDs are wired in vertical rows. The rows are wired together into three sections. A section of 10, a section of 5 and another section of 5.


Each section has its own voltage regulator feeding it. These LEDs are spec'ed to run at 2.2v with a max voltage of 2.5v. I've set the first section to 2.2v, the second section to 2.3v and the third section to 2.4v. This makes the second section ever so slightly brighter than the first section. And the third section ever so slightly brighter than the second section.


This is the PCB fitted into the fixture. The regulators are attached to the back of the PCB.


This is with all three sections powered up. It's much brighter than it was in any previous configuration. I may not need any diffuser sections. I need to test this on the car in the dark and in the daylight and compare it to the other tail light.


This is a 3-channel light sequencer wired in ahead of the three regulators. When the turn signal circuit in the car gets powered, this lights up the three sections of the PCB in sequence.


This is a bench test of the system. Because it's not wired to a flasher relay in a car, I'm cycling the power to the turn signal PCB by hand (touching the wires together at about the same rate as the flasher relay would).

[MirceaM]

I dont have a b5 but i love what your trying to make. Good job! Keep it up!

PS: That turn signal light is awesome!

[vbora01]

Always thought that effect was awesome, kudos to you! Let us know how to do it when you're all done. Share the wealth!

[euroblood]

kick ass!

[keithwbloom]

Well done Steve! :applause:



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[Matt98B5]

That is awesome! That looks like a ton of soldering work - nicely done!

[Steve in Chicago]

Upper section for brake and running lights. I'm going to power it with two voltage regulators isolated with diodes. One will be set at a lower voltage for the dimmer running lights. And the other set at full 2.2v for the brighter brake lights.

I've switched to padless PCBs.


126 LEDs


Powered at 2.2v


With lens.

[mrgreek2002]

Very nice Steve, loving it!

[Matt98B5]

Do you still need to file the LEDs to get them to fit that closely together on the board? Looking good! (looks like a ton of work...)