Intermittent Won't Start (Confused) - 2.8 V6 (2000) Passat

[zmar4893]

As the title says, I've got an intermittent start problem in my V6 GLS sedan. It's a 5-spd manual transmission. I have tried to search for posts and got a lot of somewhat similar ones but nothing quite like mine.

So a couple of weeks ago my car wouldn't start up-this was the first time it's ever done so. I heard two clicks...then nothing. Tried over and over...and nothing. just the two clicks almost every time, if not every time. Thought my battery was fine, even though it was 3 years old, because all my dash lights, alarm, etc-everything worked battery wise..the car just wouldn't start. Now, I don't have a back up car so I would "roll-start" mine to get it goin. Not only did it fire right up...it also would keep starting really healthy time and time again after that. Then that ONE time you were in the worst spot ever, it wouldn't start again-and off I was roll-starting.

So I decided I'd go get my battery tested anyways (Advanced Auto Parts does it free and a lot better than my volt meter) The battery was old and only pushin bout 12V when the car was on so I decided to pop a fresh battery in because the analysis from the machine he had was that the starter wasn't getting enough power. This worked for a bit...but then it happened again..

Got a "new-to-me" starter from the local junkyard because I don't have $200 lying around to spend on my 213,xxx mi. car for now. They assured me it was find but I know they aren't always good. Yesterday, I put this new starter in and was super excited because not being a mechanic, this was pretty involved for me (thank god for Passat World) I'm POSITIVE I installed it properly, but it wouldn't start again. I used my volt meter to test it at the solenoid and it SEEMED to be getting enough voltage-but hey my volt meter is old and I'm no expert.

This morning, out of curiosity, I went to AutoZone and handed them my "old" starter to test (the one I took out) and they said it quote: "passed" the test they did. I bought a new +battery cable complete with connectors and a new power cable for the starter. I haven't installed them yet, but this is all I can think of for now.

I have heard of people being able to start theirs if they kept trying...but when mine won't start...it doesn't matter how many times I try it's dead. Until I roll start. After that it will start up probably 25 times before-click click....and nothing.

I AM CONFUSED!! Please help me out! (I have heard maybe an ignition switch? Clutch switch?) I'm so done!

[99vwpassataeb]

So the new to you starter still does the same thing? If so id put the multimeter on the starter solenoid wire and ground the other so
Ide and see if you get voltage when you switch the ignition in to start and hold it..

[zmar4893]

So the new to you starter still does the same thing? If so id put the multimeter on the starter solenoid wire and ground the other so
Ide and see if you get voltage when you switch the ignition in to start and hold it..

I have hooked it up like that to the "new" one, but never had someone try to turn the key, I'll do that next then. (it was gettin about 12V when key wasn't turned)

[ylwagon]

Proper troubleshooting can save you time and money! When it won't start with the key, you need to get the car up on stands or a lift and measure voltage at the solenoid wire and large power lugs- while having someone turn the key to "Start". Just measuring voltage where the large cable connects, without attempting to start the engine (if that is what you did) doesn't prove anything, because even if the cable had an intermittant bad connection, it likely would have full battery voltage when the only load was your meter. If you don't get any power to the solenoid wire when you try to start, then you would suspect the ignition switch or clutch switch. At 213K miles, I'd change the ignition switch anyway. They are $13.50 at autohausaz.com, as one example.

[zmar4893]

Proper troubleshooting can save you time and money! When it won't start with the key, you need to get the car up on stands or a lift and measure voltage at the solenoid wire and large power lugs- while having someone turn the key to "Start". Just measuring voltage where the large cable connects, without attempting to start the engine (if that is what you did) doesn't prove anything, because even if the cable had an intermittant bad connection, it likely would have full battery voltage when the only load was your meter. If you don't get any power to the solenoid wire when you try to start, then you would suspect the ignition switch or clutch switch. At 213K miles, I'd change the ignition switch anyway. They are $13.50 at autohausaz.com, as one example.

All very good points. But...I'm confused as to where exactly I'm supposed to be puttin my two leads. I had one grounded to whatever metal...and the other to the thread sticking out of the solenoid (where you attach the main power). Is that right? I will test with someone turning the key tonight, I was alone last night but I'll update this when I do it

[ylwagon]

Well be sure to have someone around if you are under the car. Anyway, yes, one lead connects to grounded metal. The other probes the voltage at the three terminations on your starter.

First, the large lug from the battery: should always have battery voltage, which will drop a volt or so during cranking due to resistance in the battery and cables. If voltage drops much more than that, suspect the cables.

Second, the small wire that feeds the solenoid's coil. Should be 12V when the key is turned to start: solenoid should click as it moves the pinion into position. Test this with the lead connected. If no voltage, try changing the ignition switch. You can also confirm that you have voltage at the starter terminal of the switch before changing it; terminal is marked "50" I think.

Third, the large lug that connects the large, short lead into the starter motor. You should find battery voltage here after the solenoid clicks. If you do and the starter doesn't run, then the starter motor would be defective.

[zmar4893]

Well be sure to have someone around if you are under the car. Anyway, yes, one lead connects to grounded metal. The other probes the voltage at the three terminations on your starter.

First, the large lug from the battery: should always have battery voltage, which will drop a volt or so during cranking due to resistance in the battery and cables. If voltage drops much more than that, suspect the cables.

Second, the small wire that feeds the solenoid's coil. Should be 12V when the key is turned to start: solenoid should click as it moves the pinion into position. Test this with the lead connected. If no voltage, try changing the ignition switch. You can also confirm that you have voltage at the starter terminal of the switch before changing it; terminal is marked "50" I think.

Third, the large lug that connects the large, short lead into the starter motor. You should find battery voltage here after the solenoid clicks. If you do and the starter doesn't run, then the starter motor would be defective.

Thanks that really cleared it up, however, when I tested it...it passed. I think it's because 99% of the time, the car starts healthy and perfect. I actually had a really corroded positive terminal clamp that ran a bit down the wire, so I cut both the positive and negative clamps off and put new ones on from Autozone. I also put my old starter back in because they told me that it had passed their test. Had my car not started, I would have performed the volt meter test again, but it did-about 5 times in a row. I probably started it about 4 more times that night, and 3-5 more today before finally it wouldn't start again. No crank-nothing. I was at a gas station, stuck my foot out rolled my car back and forth a bit and it starts-though maybe a tad less healthy. Got home, started it about 5 times (waiting a bit in between each one) in a row no problem. Its so frustrating!

[Tom Dee]

yea and after paying for a few trips to dealer it would be very painful indeed trying to avoid this now thank god this is a spare car get er runnin its a gone car beautiful but gone

[zmar4893]

yea and after paying for a few trips to dealer it would be very painful indeed trying to avoid this now thank god this is a spare car get er runnin its a gone car beautiful but gone

Huh? This is my only car...I don't have a spare? Or are you talking about yours...and I try to always fix her myself no $ for dealers.

[zmar4893]

Update: It's been a couple days with no issues now for whatever reason. Maybe the corroded positive wire+clamp were the problem after all. Will update again in a week or so. Thanks for all the responses

[zmar4893]

UPDATE: I think it's safe to say that the problem has been solved. One new battery, and two new clamps later, and it starts right up every time like it should. I guess this is a good time to thank everyone again for the responses. Much appreciated.

[ylwagon]

Glad its working OK.