Stalling on 03 passat 4d 1.8
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  1. #1
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    5

    Stalling on 03 passat 4d 1.8

    I had my transmission module replaced and basic things brakes rotors struts replaced. The module was replaced at deal the other ds at a local mechanic, my epc light is on, and I had a crack in my vacuum line, it's. 45 near the top of the engine. I replaced this with a quick fix hose and clamps and it is world tight. However my car is still stalling.

    It only stalls when stopped or where Alot of stop signs.

    I have a 1600w amp with a kicker l7 15"sub, had my alternator tested and my batter is brand new.

    Now it rarely stalls when the tank is over half full leading me to believe fuel line/pump issues. My fuel line had a crack and I fixed that. But the. It stalls it doesn't get gas I get like a vroom, rmp drop sort of putt putting.

    When I start the car it starts because the rpm jumps but when it's under 10 rpm that's when it stalls. I have to rev the engine for a while before I can go and it doesn't want to give gas.


    When I'm on the high way no problems the battery light does come on but it always starts .

    So what is the epc light? The car sat for 2 years and I put so much into it I had the waiver on inspection I would like to fix these issues with out spending a million


    Thanks very much


    Also when I shift into reverse I get a hard shift sometimes and all the gear indacators light up red and I get limited power thanks again

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  3. #2
    Overdrive
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Age
    50
    Posts
    11,102
    Have it scanned for codes and post up all the code numbers in this thread.

    If I were to make a guess on the limited info so far, I'd say start with looking for vacuum leaks.
    Build a boost-leak-tester to help you find them.

  4. #3
    Wants to be TheFlipperGray
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Waltham, MA
    Posts
    3,863
    I don't think it's a fueling problem if it varies by RPM - that's indicative of a vacuum leak, the opposite would happen if it was fueling (die at WOT when the most gas is requested). You should remove and replace all the cracked lines and just as Steve said, build a boost leak tester.

    This is more extensive than the one I made, but it'll show the basic point:
    :: a4mods.com :: - The Premiere Audi A4 Modification Guide and Pictures Library

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