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Please help yesterday while attempting to get our car out of the driveway since we had a snow and ice storm the car shut off and wouldn't start again. We check fuses after replacing 2 the car has acted more like it was going to start but it still isn't starting. We check the spark plugs and running belt everything seems to be okay but the car still won't start please help.
get it scanned..possibly coolant temperature sender
shut off as in you stalled it? or shut off like idling then just died?
Shut off as in foot was on the gas and it died. This is our first VW so we don't know a whole lot we are learning as we go lol. What is the coolant sensor, where's it at? I should also say monvey is tight so no way to get it scanned.
Where in Va are you?
Winchester about an hour from Leesburg
We can meet after new year and get ur car scaned.
Is there an easy way to check and do the timing if the car won't run? How about checking the compression?
You can check compression, as long as u have the gauges. Do you have any maintenance records. Has the timing belt being replaced? What's the mileage on the car?
Hard to say; could be any one of a number of things...
Bad battery, fuel pump failure, timing belt failure, etc.
The battery can be checked by any auto parts store, the timing belt can be checked (at least somewhat) by removing the engine cover and popping off the upper timing cover.
No maintance records. Over 100,000 miles on it.
It's not the battery It acts like it wants to start but then it wont start it just sputters.
Were the fuses you replaced blown? If so, check them again to see if the new ones you just put in have blown again.
The engine needs three things to run. Compression, spark & gas.
A compression check would tell you if the timing belt system failed and the valves are bent.
You can also pull the top timing belt cover and turn the crank pulley till the cam cog on the head is lined up with the timing marks. Then look at the crank pulley to see if the timing marks there are also lined up.
Pull a coil and plug. Put the plug top back into the coil and plug the coil back into the harness. Clip one end of a jumper cable to the metal body of the plug and the other end to a good ground like the eyelet on the head where the letters AEB are stamped. Lay the plug/coil somewhere where you can observe the electrodes at the tip and make sure nothing is in the way of moving engine parts (you don't want to be holding any of this while doing this test). Have someone crank the engine a bit while you observe the tip of the plug. You should see it sparking zap, zap, zap, zap as the engine turns over. It helps if you do this in a dark environment. You may not see the spark if it's too bright out. If no spark, it could be a blown fuse or a blown ICM (Ignition Control Module). AEB coil packs rarely fail but the AEB has an ICM which often fails.
See what the exhaust smells like. It should smell really gassy if fueling is happening but not igniting.
It does smell like gas I will have him try the above outlined. I did triple check the fuses lol they are all good.
I replaced the spark plugs car still will not start... It acts like it wants to but it just wont completely start please help.
Anyone?
Did you check for spark like outlined in post # 13?
When you pulled the plugs to change them, were the old plugs coming out wet with gasoline?
Fuel pump? Remove the fuel pump cover in the trunk under the carpet, and have someone turn the key to the ON position. Check to see if there is a noise coming from that area for a second while the pump primes the fuel lines.
That's if you're getting spark which you should test given Steve's advice above.
I do hear the fuel pump every time that was the first thing I listened for lol. I am doing most of the stuff myself since my husband doesn't like to listen to me. I do know stuff about cars lol. Didn't notice any gas on them. Scanned the car it comes up with a code P1410 which is Fuel Tank Vent Valve short to B+ any clue what that is? The book isn't telling me much. Any clue where that is? Pictures would be great if there are any somewhere. Thank you for all your help.
Check for spark. Steve's suggestion to suspect the ICM is a good one. P1410 shouldn't cause a running issue/no start situation with the car.
The fuel tank issue is likely a charcoal canister problem, I'd worry about getting your car started before fixing that though. That seems to be a separate issue.
x3, do what Steve said to check for spark. Then report back and we can help.
1st plug doesn't spark. checked the plug in another coil the plug is okay. There's 3 total that won't spark finally got them all checked.
Last edited by hissweetpea; 01-06-2013 at 06:26 AM.
So coil #1 is not sparking but another coil is sparking? Swap coils between those two cylinders to see if the problem moves with the coil or stays with the cylinder. If the problem moves, you've got a bad coil. If the problem stays with cylinder #1, you've probably got a bad ICM. AEB coils don't fail often. ICM's fail regularly.
OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning
4D0905351 - Google Search
1.8t ignition control module - Google Search
You may also have deteriorating wires in the harness going to the coil packs. Sometimes these wires get cooked to the point where the insulation starts to break away and the wires short together.
Also check the primary ignition grounding point for a solid connection. This is the brown wire (or wires) that bolt to the top of the valve cover between coil packs 1 and 2.
(pen pointing at grounding point)
1,3,&4 are not sparking.
They fire on the one that fires.
Is there a way to test the icm?
You just did it.
It appears channel 2 of your ICM is still working but channels 1, 3 & 4 are not.
To recap...
All four coils produce spark, as long as they are plugged into the #2 cylinder connector. That indicates all four coils are good.
Good coils won't spark when connected to cylinder 1, 3 or 4 connectors. That indicates those three channels are dead.
I'd put a new ICM in there. That's the most likely cause. You don't need the more expensive BOSCH brand. A HUCO brand will work just as well and cost less.
The ICM is mounted to a metal heat-sink embedded in the top of the air box. There is a thin layer of thermal paste between the ICM and the heat-sink. This layer is important. It helps conduct heat from the ICM to the heat-sink so the ICM doesn't cook itself and fail. Clean off the old thermal paste and apply a small amount of new paste so it makes a super thin layer between the two parts. You can get thermal conductive paste at computer stores. It's the same paste they use on computer chips when mounting heat-sinks to them.
The cheapest ICM I have found is $250 is there any cheaper than that?
See the three links in post #23 of this thread.
Also... http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...etta-4d0905351
and... http://www.google.com/search?q=therm...Y&ved=0CEAQsxg
I found one on Ebay for $18 went with that should have it Tuesday. Thank you for all your help. I know stuff about domestic cars I grew up on a junk yard and my grandfather always taught us girls about cars because he never wanted us to be a victim. This VW is completely new to me a whole lot different lol.
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1999 Volkswagen Passat
