Raxles or clean-repack CV joint/boot? (Shaft is a bit rusty).

[bluesilk]

I am facing two options related to a leaking CV boot,
i) Raxles
ii) clean and repack CV joint, put on new boot and clamps

I don't mind to do either, as I have done (ii) on both sides previously.

I think the CV joint is probably still good at 137K. the reason for needing CV boot work is that the grease is leaking out from the larger end of the boot for a while (not because the boot was torn).

However, here is what worries me:

The winter salt and mud have take a toll on the shaft (original VW axle shaft). The surface seem to has some crack for a while (it might be just the paint layer peeling off or some type of anti-rust plate)

Your experience and advice on the axle shaft would be greatly appreciated. Is the shaft safe and how long it will last?

I understand Raxles will work perfect, but if my old axle and joint is still good, I am willing to put in time & effect and save that $150 (or $230 if Raxle does not take my VW shaft) which I need elsewhere.

[ylwagon]

You need to sand the paint right away and see if that is just paint or the actual tube of the driveshaft that is cracked. If an actual metal crack, do not drive that car until the axle is replaced.

[NEWMAN'SOWN]

Raxles, not even a question in my mind. I would never drive on an axle that looked like that, let alone try and rebuild it...

[2k21.8T]

Raxles, not even a question in my mind. I would never drive on an axle that looked like that, let alone try and rebuild it...

^ this says it all! Buy RAXLES once and be done with it!

Matt

[RDPASSAT]

If you need a used oem cv axle assembly to send to Raxles I have one from a 03 passat fwd auto, its $55 shipped, Pics are in the classifieds for sale section.
Just pm me.

[PZ]

Don't even bother with a boot. Pull the axle bolt, shoot some grease in there and replace the bolt. As long as the boot is intact, you can just tighten the clamp.

[sirwired]

I 3rd the idea that you really need to see if that's paint or the axle. If the axle really is crapped, put something, ANYTHING on there right the heck now.

That is a good idea PZ has to insert grease and tighten the clamp... (assuming the axle is still good.) You will, however, need to pick up a new axle bolt if you go that route; it's a one-time-use part.

[ylwagon]

Don't even bother with a boot. Pull the axle bolt, shoot some grease in there and replace the bolt. As long as the boot is intact, you can just tighten the clamp.

This would be OK as long as the new grease is the same or compatible with the existing CV grease. Some greases shouldn't be mixed, or so I've read.

[Nussbaum]

I think the rust is just flaking paint

[bluesilk]

I think the rust is just flaking paint

I went under last night and check the flaking thing. It is paint plus a layer of rust. I think the rust now covers the entire length of the shaft exposed to air, although I only removed paint flake for about half of the shaft length.

Anyone has any knowledge of how thick the metal is? or approximately, what percent of diameter of the shaft is hollow. (This is OEM stock shaft on 1.8T).

[ylwagon]

The driveshaft without CV joints is actually pretty light, so I'd guess less than 1/8" (but have never sawed one in half yet).

[bluesilk]

Some people mentioned that they snap drive shafts before, especially the aftermarket ones.

what happen then? does the shaft itself break into two piece?

what happens to a FWD car under such circumstance? I assume that if nothing jam into any moving mechanism, one would just lost power link to one wheel, ESP/ESC might intervene to slow the good wheel down. The driver should be able to coast to a safe stop if traffic cooperate. Right?

[bluesilk]

I figure that shaft is okay. So I went ahead cleaned

and repacked


I learned a lesson, and added two 18" x 1/2" pipe to the crimp tool (my previous CV boot replacement's large clamp was not tight enough and caused me all the trouble for a second try).