Uper control Arm and Pinch Bolt Removal Video
NEWS
 
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 35
  1. #1
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    596

    Uper control Arm and Pinch Bolt Removal Video

    Before my friend and me did the control arms on his A4 the other week and getting ready to do mine soon we came across this video on youtube for how to do the uper control arms on an A6. Being as it is basically the same and had a good video for removing the pinch bolt i thought i would share it for others having difficulties.


  2. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    654
    Posts
    131
    no need for some stupid special tool.

    get a soft hammer. like a plastic one. i've removed those bolts on all kinds of VW's and Audi's when i was working in european car shop before it went out of business.

  4. #3
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    Quote Originally Posted by getlost4x4 View Post
    no need for some stupid special tool.

    get a soft hammer. like a plastic one. i've removed those bolts on all kinds of VW's and Audi's when i was working in european car shop before it went out of business.
    Must've been where they do not salt the roads.

  5. #4
    Super Stealth Retired Moderator JayTheSnork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Waterford CT USA
    Posts
    27,015
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by getlost4x4 View Post
    no need for some stupid special tool.

    get a soft hammer. like a plastic one. i've removed those bolts on all kinds of VW's and Audi's when i was working in european car shop before it went out of business.
    how many, just a couple of 'em?

  6. #5
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Montyshire, PA
    Posts
    299
    Whats this special tool use speak of? The video wont work for me for whatever reason.

  7. #6
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    99
    Quote Originally Posted by bob the builder View Post
    Whats this special tool use speak of? The video wont work for me for whatever reason.
    its just this



    "balljoint tool "

  8. #7
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Montyshire, PA
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by m4sta View Post
    its just this



    "balljoint tool "
    Thanks for that iv never used one on a passat before.

  9. #8
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    596
    this isnt to say that this isnt the only way to be done i just know many people have problems especially removing the pinch bolt and some people learn better than seeing by reading.

    although yes i agree on my friends A4 we just used a nice hammer

  10. #9
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    The Ay Tee Elle
    Age
    43
    Posts
    997
    Hmmm. I thought those were called pickle forks.

    Love the air hammer though...

    AJ

  11. #10
    PZ
    PZ is offline
    Redline
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Grapevine TX. 01 4M
    Age
    51
    Posts
    21,932
    The pickle fork is only good if you plan on replacing the arms as it will tear the ball joint cover. It does not help with the pinch bolt. I bought one last month as the newer B5.5 lower control arm has an insert in the hub carrier that gets stuck to the arm.

  12. #11
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    654
    Posts
    131
    no salt in Montana or Wyoming. Loooosers! HA HA HA


    about 10 of these cars. mostly steering racks and tie rod ends. for some reason those don't seem to last up here.

  13. #12
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    63
    Posts
    342
    I can't view the video from my office PC so I can't see what method is being used. Best method I've found for removing seized pinch bolts is the cut and jack method. Cut off the bolt head between the first split in the upper spindle using a Dremel tool and then twist off the head with a socket wrench. Remove the nut from the threaded end and install a spacer, such as a lug nut or something similar. Reinstall the original nut and use it to jack the bolt from the spindle shaft using a socket wrench. Add more spacers as the bolt is extracted to keep the nut on the threaded portion of the bolt.

    This process is well documented elsewhere in these forums with photos. I've used it a couple of times on Passat front ends. It beats the heck out of drilling out the bolt. If you can get the bolt out using a hammer then consider yourself extremely lucky. Use liberal amounts of anti-seize compound on the replacement bolt shaft, but keep it off the threads or you won't be able to apply the proper torque.

  14. #13
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    Video shows using an air hammer.

  15. #14
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    Quote Originally Posted by captain_video View Post
    Use liberal amounts of anti-seize compound on the replacement bolt shaft, but keep it off the threads or you won't be able to apply the proper torque.
    I plan on removing and reapplying anti-sieze to the pinch bolts yearly since I did my control arms this summer.

  16. #15
    1st Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    63
    Posts
    342
    Quote Originally Posted by zak99B5 View Post
    I plan on removing and reapplying anti-sieze to the pinch bolts yearly since I did my control arms this summer.
    I've been doing the same thing. You only have to drill out one bolt before taking preventative measures to ensure you'll never have to do it again. Believe me, it is not fun.

  17. #16
    Motel Room Moderator VAGguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Abingdon, MD
    Age
    37
    Posts
    20,576
    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    The pickle fork is only good if you plan on replacing the arms as it will tear the ball joint cover. It does not help with the pinch bolt. I bought one last month as the newer B5.5 lower control arm has an insert in the hub carrier that gets stuck to the arm.
    That royally pissed me off when I went to reinstall the new arm and realized it didn't have the sleeve in there. Took forever to get that sleeve off the old arm.

  18. #17
    3rd Gear
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Maryland (D.C. Area)
    Age
    22
    Posts
    1,775
    That was the fastest I've ever seen a pinch bolt come out. I worked on getting mine out for about 2 hours, then gave up and gave it to a shop. I even cut the bolt in the spaces you can see, and still the end piece was stuck in it. The shop told me it took them about another hour to get it out. They got lucky with the bolt in that video. Some are MUCH more seized than others. Once again, a retarded design by VW. The dual upper control arm setup is not used on any car but VWs, and is extremely unnecessary. All the dual upper arm setup does, is not allow the front wheels to sit at a slight angle when the wheels are turned. Great. I don't care about that, I'd much rather have an easily accessible suspension setup. Every other car in the world seems to get by just fine without it.

  19. #18
    Motel Room Moderator VAGguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Abingdon, MD
    Age
    37
    Posts
    20,576
    so much pent up anger......lol

    mine was a PA car. Each bolt came out in about 10 minutes with a 5lb sledge. For the record, they did learn their lesson and started using aluminum uprights on the w8 and audis. No more seized bolts.

  20. #19
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    596
    im doing my control arms over christmas break and i am praying that the pinch bolts come out without any huge issues.

  21. #20
    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Age
    51
    Posts
    14,794
    Quote Originally Posted by nkausch View Post
    I'm doing my control arms over Christmas break and I am praying that the pinch bolts come out without any huge issues.
    Start spraying them with penetrating oil several days in advance.

  22. #21
    Resident a-hole knowitall
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    CT - in racecar
    Age
    15
    Posts
    15,640
    if you put the upper bolts back in backwards you can change the upper control arms in the car without removing the upper plate.

  23. #22
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in Chicago View Post
    Start spraying them daily with penetrating oil several months in advance.
    Fixed it for you

  24. #23
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    Quote Originally Posted by SleeperWagon View Post
    Once again, a retarded design by VW.
    It's an Audi design.

    And it allows for the steering axis to be located further out than the arms, in the middle of the tire contact patch.

    On cars with Mac struts, the axis is the strut--from the strut bearing down to the lower ball joint. So the axis does not coincide with the center of the tire, and you get undesirable handling traits.

    Edit: the bad part of the design is not having serviceable ball joints at the ends of the arms. That and the seizing of the pinch bolt.

  25. #24
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    29
    I have my new control arms on the bench, ready to go.

    Though, a question. In the video, he just torques down the control arms to the plate when everything in off the car. Is this really advisable? I've read that the bolts should be tightened on the car, with the suspension compressed to normal ride height. In the Bentley, they give an actual angle (40deg IIRC). Not this guy, it looks like he just eye balls is from the other arm, then repeats.

    Any opinions?

  26. #25
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,340
    I installed the arms with the pivot bolts just snug. Then I jacked up the spindle until it lifted the car's weight off the jack stand. At that point I torqued the pivot bolts. It may not be the exact ride height as then front is jacked up and carrying less weight, but it's close enough for me.

    Going by the existing arms' angle assumes you have good bushings to start.

    The degree method is only good if your car has the same suspension. If you have the 1BE springs, the angle is different a the ride height is lower.

  27. #26
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Toms River NJ
    Posts
    3,248
    Quote Originally Posted by zak99B5 View Post
    I plan on removing and reapplying anti-sieze to the pinch bolts yearly since I did my control arms this summer.
    Quote Originally Posted by captain_video View Post
    I've been doing the same thing. You only have to drill out one bolt before taking preventative measures to ensure you'll never have to do it again. Believe me, it is not fun.
    I replace my pinch bolts once a year and load them up with antisieze anytime I'm working around them or remove them. They are only a few bucks for the bolts at the dealer, so why not? I actually REALLY want to do this again soon, before the winter and salt start getting on the roads..

  28. #27
    Motel Room Moderator VAGguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Abingdon, MD
    Age
    37
    Posts
    20,576
    no need to keep replacing the bolts after the first time. Just anti-sieze them prior to every winter. Mine have been in there 4 years and come right out with a tap, every time.

  29. #28
    Motel Room Moderator VAGguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Abingdon, MD
    Age
    37
    Posts
    20,576
    Quote Originally Posted by zak99B5 View Post
    I installed the arms with the pivot bolts just snug. Then I jacked up the spindle until it lifted the car's weight off the jack stand. At that point I torqued the pivot bolts. It may not be the exact ride height as then front is jacked up and carrying less weight, but it's close enough for me.

    Going by the existing arms' angle assumes you have good bushings to start.

    The degree method is only good if your car has the same suspension. If you have the 1BE springs, the angle is different a the ride height is lower.
    x2. If you are just replacing the arms and the suspension has not changed, it is ok to use the degree method or match the new arm angle with the old. As long as the bushing isn't completely torn, it should return the arm to the correct angle when at rest.

  30. #29
    Neutral
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    654
    Posts
    131
    I was just looking at this thread because I'm replacing my control arms today. I'm sitting there looking at the bolts thinking what moron decided to put the control arm bolts in, in such a way that you have to take out the entire strut. Idiot. I'm reversing the bolts when I reinstall for any future replacements. That way, i'll never have to take the strut out again unless its being replace.

  31. #30
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    The Ay Tee Elle
    Age
    43
    Posts
    997
    Excellent description. It's actually a fantastic design in terms of geometry and suspension dynamics throughout travel. That's why Passats (and corresponding Audi's) handle so well with stock suspension and without being lowered.

    This design would have been a boon in the A2/A3 for a race application. But, I think the transverse mounted engine didn't allow the room for it. Mac-strut is a very basic design, but you have to dump them on the ground to overcome their weaknesses.

    AJ

    Quote Originally Posted by zak99B5 View Post
    It's an Audi design.

    And it allows for the steering axis to be located further out than the arms, in the middle of the tire contact patch.

    On cars with Mac struts, the axis is the strut--from the strut bearing down to the lower ball joint. So the axis does not coincide with the center of the tire, and you get undesirable handling traits.

    Edit: the bad part of the design is not having serviceable ball joints at the ends of the arms. That and the seizing of the pinch bolt.

  32. Remove Advertisements
    VW Passat Forum
    Advertisements
     

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.2