Can Bad CV Joint Cause Vibration at Highway Speeds?
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  1. #1
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    Can Bad CV Joint Cause Vibration at Highway Speeds?

    Have 2004 1.8T 4Motion wagon, for 6 to 9 months I have heard the clicking noise coming from driver's side CV joint when turning left but nothing more than that until this week when I have started noticing car is vibrating at 70+ mph on highway and wondering if this is the driveshaft telling me it's time to put up on jack stands and throw a rebuilt driveshaft in.
    Besides the left turn clicking and possible high speed vibration there has been no clunking when letting off gas and then starting to go again.
    I just replaced boot about 5 weeks ago knowing it was clicking so maybe I should have just put in a rebuilt shaft, tend to do stupid stuff like that to save a few bucks just to end up spending more down the road.
    Has anyone had a highway speed vibration and then after replacing driveshaft it was gone? Can live with the clicking but don't like the vibration....

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  3. #2
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    I had vibrations from worn CVs. Cured with rebuilt halfshafts.

  4. #3
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    Sorry, double post...see next:

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PassatBobNY View Post
    Have 2004 1.8T 4Motion wagon, for 6 to 9 months I have heard the clicking noise coming from driver's side CV joint when turning left but nothing more than that until this week when I have started noticing car is vibrating at 70+ mph on highway and wondering if this is the driveshaft telling me it's time to put up on jack stands and throw a rebuilt driveshaft in.
    Besides the left turn clicking and possible high speed vibration there has been no clunking when letting off gas and then starting to go again.
    I just replaced boot about 5 weeks ago knowing it was clicking so maybe I should have just put in a rebuilt shaft, tend to do stupid stuff like that to save a few bucks just to end up spending more down the road.
    Has anyone had a highway speed vibration and then after replacing driveshaft it was gone? Can live with the clicking but don't like the vibration....
    No you can't live with the clicking...that ALWAYS means a failed or dry CV...is the boot ripped? If so, at the very least it needs be cleaned-repacked (grease) and boot replaced. Often if it's reached the clicking stage, it's already too late to save.

    Highway vibration (symptom-wise) is NOTHING compared to CV clicking...
    The next symptom will be locking up and pulling the wheel out of your hands.

    ALWAYS address a clicking CV...it is NOT OK to let it go. For that matter, if a boot rips and starts squirting grease, immediately repair it...they can NOT run dry for more than a week or two!!

  6. #5
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    When I replaced ripped boot a few weeks ago I cleaned and repacked CV joint with CV joint supplied in OEM VW boot repair kits, boot was torn for about 4 days in dry weather. I noticed greese on inside of rim immeadiatly.
    Probably should have just put new rebuilt driveshaft in at that point.
    Thanks.

  7. #6
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    Has anybody used either EMPI or FEQ driveshafts from ECS? They are new and not rebuilt.
    I know everybody raves about raxles but I just don't have the $175 to spend right now.

  8. #7
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    Try the duralast remanufactured axles from autozone for $60 each. I had a set of the cheap aftermarkets blowout after just a few months. Gave these a shot and so far they are doing good. They are remaned oem parts and they have a lifetime warranty, so if they fail on you, just return them.

    Just don't go for their new axles... they're same cheap aftermarket crap that doesn't last. I contacted the factory where they do the remans and the tech assured me that they use oem parts. The inner part of the axles still had the vw/audi stamps on them when I checked them out at the store.

  9. #8
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    my rotors made my car wobble at high speed and while braking from high speed

  10. #9
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    Is the procedure for determining which CV joint is bad as follows?
    Turn car to the left and hear clicking it is the right outer CV Joint?
    Turn car to the right and hear clicking it is the left outer CV Joint?
    I think I had this backwards..... now have wrong replacement shaft on order from Rock Auto Parts.
    Did some more digging on the web and may have found source for OEM CV Joint.
    GKN Driveline: the world leader in automotive driveline technology
    Has anybody purchased these for your VW? If so from where?
    ECS has this brand available for only (1) B5 application with manual tranny.

  11. #10
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    Realized today that the OEM drive shaft is a larger diameter hollow shaft compared to aftermarket drive shafts which are usually solid, that is way to determine what is in your car if car was purchased used.
    Since my drive shafts were new a year ago when I bought the car it explains why they have failed in 10 months and plan now is to get them replaced with new ones from RAXLES which the guy I talked to on ther phone says they only use the larger diameter hollow OEM shaft with new GKN/LoBro CV Joints.
    I am trying to fix this problem the right way so I don't have to be doing this again in 6 months.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #11
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    driving with a bad axle can lead to premature failures with the wheel bearings too, so i'd keep an eye/ear out for signs that they are failing and plan to possibly replace them as well. it might even be a good practice to go ahead and replace them when you do the axle since the axle bolts are for one-time use only. if you do the wheel bearings afterwards, then you'll need to replace the bolt as well. the bolts are cheap but why not save the time and $ you'll be spending on it later on?

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