Write-up: How to clean purge valve on B5 V6 (with pics)
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Thread: Write-up: How to clean purge valve on B5 V6 (with pics)

  1. #1
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    Write-up: How to clean purge valve on B5 V6 (with pics)

    First of all, I want to thank anyone for the help in the past.

    Currently, my 2003 Passat V6 has a check engine light on with code P0441 (EVAP Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow). I cleaned the purge valve and thought it would be helpful to any one who is looking for the information.

    1. Purge Valve sits on top of Air Box on the passenger side.



    Note:
    - The part circled with RED is the purge valve
    - The part circled with ORANGE is the electrical connections
    - The parts circled with BLUE are single use clamps affix each side of the hoses

    2. I bought the carb cleaner and clamps with screw for easily tighten the hoses. Also, it is easier to take them off if I need to change an new purge valve.



    3. The picture show the electrical connector being taken off and both single use clamps being taken off.



    4. The purge valve (OEM part number: 077133517C)



    5. I sprayed the carb cleaner into both sides of the holes on purge valve. Then, I used fingers to cover both end and shook a bit. I waited for several minutes. Unfortunately, there is nothing dirty came out of it.

    6. Installation is in the reversed order.

    7. When I started the car, the light still there. I only started for couple of minutes and I did not heard the clicking/ticking sounds from the purge valve which I heard before!!

    What should I do then?

    - Do I need to reset the CEL? If so, how to do it?
    - Drive around tomorrow to see if CEL will clear itself? Will it?
    - Take it to the dealer?

    Thanks for help!!
    Last edited by A_Huang; 06-26-2010 at 09:19 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Buy a new valve and install it?

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    Lol so your write up killed your purge valve?

    A CEL won't go away. It will go away after driving. Or you can clear it with vagcom. Or unplug the negative terminal from the battery, you'll reset the clock with that though.

  5. #4
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    If that valve is throwing an emissions code (which I think it is) you will need to have some number of cold starts before it clears (assuming the valve is working otherwise it won't clear).

    If the valve failure is intermittent then there is the potential for the CEL to go away then come back. Mine did this so I replaced the valve, rather then risk a CEL triggering just before an emissions test.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toronto5.5 View Post
    Lol so your write up killed your purge valve?

    A CEL won't go away. It will go away after driving. Or you can clear it with vagcom. Or unplug the negative terminal from the battery, you'll reset the clock with that though.
    I had a engine light on , that is why I tried to clean the purge valve to see if it will go away. Do not have VAG-COM. Also, do not want to touch the battery - not enough experience/tools working on the battery.

    I guess I will drive around to see what will happen.

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    BTW, how long (distance or time) should I drive before I can decide the valve is bad?

    If it is bad, while I am waiting for the replacement, can I drive long distance say 250 miles?

  8. #7
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    This valve is part of the emissions control system that reduces emissions from your gas tank. You can drive with this valve broken until you need to pass an emissions test. You may see slightly lower gas milage, depending on how the valve sticks.

    If you drive your car every day, I say wait a week or two, if it still doesn't clear then it's time to fix or repair it.

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    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
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    Your cleaning procedure was correct. Make sure you re-installed the valve in the same orientation (direction) that it was before. Make sure the electrical connector is seated completely. Next time you drive it, pop the hood and listen to see if it's resumed clicking.

    I forget. What is the exact code you are getting?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in Chicago View Post
    Your cleaning procedure was correct. Make sure you re-installed the valve in the same orientation (direction) that it was before. Make sure the electrical connector is seated completely. Next time you drive it, pop the hood and listen to see if it's resumed clicking.

    I forget. What is the exact code you are getting?
    I had P0441 code.

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    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
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    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...5/P0441/001089

    Could also be a clog or a break in one of the rubber hoses of that system.

    Make sure not to overfill your gas tank. When the gas pump shuts itself off, don't try to "top off" the tank any further. If you've been "topping off" the tank, you may have excess gas collected in the lines or the EVAP canister.

    Make sure you replace the gas cap tight enough. Tighten it till it clicks several times.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ganesha View Post
    This valve is part of the emissions control system that reduces emissions from your gas tank. You can drive with this valve broken until you need to pass an emissions test. You may see slightly lower gas milage, depending on how the valve sticks.

    If you drive your car every day, I say wait a week or two, if it still doesn't clear then it's time to fix or repair it.
    Thanks.

    Where did you buy your valve from? Is World Impex a good place to buy?

    http://www.worldimpex.com/index.html

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in Chicago View Post
    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...5/P0441/001089

    Could also be a clog or a break in one of the rubber hoses of that system.

    Make sure not to overfill your gas tank. When the gas pump shuts itself off, don't try to "top off" the tank any further. If you've been "topping off" the tank, you may have excess gas collected in the lines or the EVAP canister.

    Make sure you replace the gas cap tight enough. Tighten it till it clicks several times.
    Thanks Steve. Good info site.

    The gas tank was half full before the CEL came on. I also tried to replace the gas cap several times.

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    I don't want to contribute to anyone breaking their purge valves but I had to chime in. (been absent a long time but recently have been lurking again) I've had my ATW 1.8t 2000 for 10 years so I know what i'm talking about.

    For this, you NEED a vag-com. Its channel ~ 72 or somewhere near. Run the test and make sure its failing. Then, take the valve out. deep inside one of the 2 openings is an adjustable screw. You need a small computer-type flathead driver for this. Adjust it until it flows properly again. You can move the screw about 180degrees either direction. have some time, as with each small adjustment it flows differently and you need to run the test on the vag every time. Eventually mine passed with that 'EVAP OK' and I couldn't believe it. Its been fine for years since.

    I fixed mine this way. but remember, this is a hail mary pass all the way.

    obviously this only applies to incorrect flow errors. Anything else just replace the valve
    Passatmat likes this.

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    I have a brand new bosch purge valve for sale. I'm not sure if V6 uses the same as the 1.8t. If you consider buying a new one Pm me..

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    Quote Originally Posted by iko View Post
    I have a brand new bosch purge valve for sale. I'm not sure if V6 uses the same as the 1.8t. If you consider buying a new one Pm me..
    Message sent.

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    The clicking/ticking sound of purge valve came back. But the CEL is still on.

    I read the manual, if I disconnect the battery, the radio/sound system will be locked. The previous owner lost the manual, so I do not have the code to activate the system (is there anyway to find the code?)

    Also, do not have the vag-com. Any other way to reset the CEL?

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by A_Huang View Post
    The clicking/ticking sound of purge valve came back. But the CEL is still on.

    I read the manual, if I disconnect the battery, the radio/sound system will be locked. The previous owner lost the manual, so I do not have the code to activate the system (is there anyway to find the code?)

    Also, do not have the vag-com. Any other way to reset the CEL?

    Thanks.
    disconnecting the battery will not necessarily lock your radio. if it does the dealership can get you the code (using the numbers in the back of the HU)

    you can reset using a simple code reader, go to autozone and borrow theirs

  19. #18
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    Just wanted to provide an update of this CEL issue.

    The CEL disappeared after a week driving and 3 day parking.

    Thanks to everyone for the hints!!

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by F. Monger View Post
    I don't want to contribute to anyone breaking their purge valves but I had to chime in. (been absent a long time but recently have been lurking again) I've had my ATW 1.8t 2000 for 10 years so I know what i'm talking about.

    For this, you NEED a vag-com. Its channel ~ 72 or somewhere near. Run the test and make sure its failing. Then, take the valve out. deep inside one of the 2 openings is an adjustable screw. You need a small computer-type flathead driver for this. Adjust it until it flows properly again. You can move the screw about 180degrees either direction. have some time, as with each small adjustment it flows differently and you need to run the test on the vag every time. Eventually mine passed with that 'EVAP OK' and I couldn't believe it. Its been fine for years since.

    I fixed mine this way. but remember, this is a hail mary pass all the way.

    obviously this only applies to incorrect flow errors. Anything else just replace the valve
    Interesting, I had never heard about that before. I was able to clear my code a year ago by just cleaning the valve, but if it becomes a problem again, I will take a look for that adjustment.

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    Great info guys. I'm not recommending it but I was able to clean mine with a spray of brake cleaner in the intake side. It's a small hole but I looked in there under a bright light and the whole thing was plugged with black soot (presumably carbon). It should help until I get a new one ordered. The cleaner dissolved everything nicely. I've looked and you can get used ones on ebay for about $15. But why buy used. New go on ebay for around 50+.

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    Engine Light went off yesterday. Turns out I got some bad gas at Speedway (Premium). A can of SeaFoam in the Tank and cleaning the valve with brake cleaners is working for now. I'll still order a new one.

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    Question did anybody noticed a lack of power when driving the car with the valve not working properly?

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    Quote Originally Posted by vwpassat00 View Post
    Question did anybody noticed a lack of power when driving the car with the valve not working properly?
    That is normal for anything that throws a CEL on the 1.8T.

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    after i follow the instructions and clean the purge valve i erease the codes by disconecting the battery. well i test drive and it came up with new codes! P0300 P0303 and P0304 it was the coils i repleced them all and is running like a beast now!(: yeeiiaa!

  26. #25
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    Great guide...pretty sure this just fixed my p0441 error and my rough idle on cold starts...plus now after replacing the one-time use clips and seeing how to remove the purge valve if I do need to install a new one it should be much quicker and easier.

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    Hi Guys.

    I have been having an Engine light come on and off for a couple of weeks, I finally went to the dealer, and came out with a 4100$ price tag for a TB clean purge valve and the Works. Does this in any way seem possible.

    I think I can exchange the valve myself and the TB clean should be doable as well!

    any thoughts... thanks for this nifty guide!

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    Take it to an indy. You could buy an engine for that.

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    indy does that mean independent mechanic??

  30. #29
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    i did this on my b5.5 v6 but i had to use a toothpick to physcially poke thru some very hard deposits that were blocking the ends before i could get it properly clean and functioning again.

    i used b-12 to clean it out and noticed that i wasn't getting any good amount of fluid into the valve at first. after i was able to break through the ends with the toothpick, the valve took in enough fluid for me to shake and empty a few times until it looked like clean fluid was coming out.

    it's been about 3 months since and i've had no further CELs or issues with the valve.

    try to look into the ends with some good light and see if you can detect anything blocking the ends. if not, then your best bet is to buy a new one since they really aren't that expensive.

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    Moderate Moderator Steve in Chicago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAGguy View Post
    You could buy an entire used car for that.
    (small edit)

    I bet that quote included a bunch of other work. Is that car overdue for a Timing belt? Clunking control arms? Blown turbo?

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