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Tried to install new thermostat today. It's the original unit from the factory 13 years ago. Bolts are rusted on. I can get the socket around them but as I began to turn the wrench I could feel that the nut was going to break and then I'd be without a car so I gave up and just went with a coolant flush today. Ill just have the dealer do it
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Finished my WAI install. Also replaced the PVC piping I had run for the DV with some 1"ID heater hose which is much better. Also swapped out my N75E with my old N75C because I was having issues with only hitting 14-15PSI on a Stage 2 Unitronic flash. Haven't tested it out yet so lets hope that worked.
I'd love to see pix if you get a chance.Originally Posted by Gene 1.8T
Woolen Air Intake????
I replaced the support struts for the rear hatch of my 2003 GLX Wagon. A few points:
1. This job was so easy, you'd be a total idiot to have someone do it. Really. In difficulty, it ranks somewhere between checking the air in you tires and putting on new windshield wipers. And it's only "harder" than wipers because you need a flathead screwdriver, a rubber mallet (maybe), and something to support the hatch while you make the repair.
2. DO NOT get the parts from the dealer. VW wanted $65 each, but I got them both from Auto Parts Warehouse for just over $50, including shipping. Strangely, ECS Tuning had the hood support for my rig, but not the hatch supports. Go figure.
3. DO NOT remove any bolts or other parts from the supports that actually hold the struts to the hatch and the body. If you get out the socket set for this job, you're overthinking it.
4. I read on another thread (not here, I guess, because I couldn't find it during a search) that you need to loosen the clips in the new ones before you put them on to the ball shaped fittings that secure the struts to the car body and the hatch. However, I just cleaned up the fittings with some Amsoil MP (their version of WD40) and a papertowel and the new ones just snapped on--no fuss at all. No tool needed.
5. When you pry up the spring clips from the old ones with your screwdriver, watch out! One went flying off at a really good clip! Once you have the clip off or loosened, you can either pull them off by hand or gently rap them with a rubber mallet.
Damn it! Who told my secret?!Woolen Air Intake????
Warm Air Intake = WAI. In the Passat's case, it's a Hot Air Intake, lol.
Listened to the symphony of noises on my car in 20 degree weather:
1. Wheel Bearing Squeal - pretty much confirmed. Speed dependent and not engine, changes with brake application
2. Sway bar links both groaning - over-torqued probably, or worn
3. Plastic panel and sunroof rattles - 15 years of use nowI might start fixing all these rattle problems... aside from the sunroof which seems to want a whole new assembly because sourcing one part will take forever. From what I've determined here are the major ones:
- Door handles on outside of door like to rattle to bass heavy music
- Door locks like to rattle around in there sleeves
- Upper portion of door cards creak when pressed
- Outside mirror inner plastic has a clip broken
- Items in door card pockets (easy fix I know) rattle around
- Center rear seat belt slaps the leather with windows down
- Hat shelf in the back? Who knows
Ah gotcha. I I just finished knitting my intake filter. High quality wool from the finest sheep in Scotland, can't wait to try it out. Air particles move faster through wool, so should probably gain like 50hp.
Gave it a Big Ol kiss and a bath for passing emissions. Had a check engine light come on this week, P0420 or 430. I decided to do whats cheap and easy first before I got all worried and spent big money on things like O2 sensors and cats. So I bought new plugs and a can of Seafoam for the gas tank. Whilst changing the plugs I discovered they were not torqued properlyWonder which shade tree mechanic did that?
Anywho 5 of 6 plugs were clean but one was oily due to leaky valve cover gaskets. Now I was worried that I had killed the cat. I am happy to say that after about 100 miles all is good in the world again. No more CELand I will probably get new headlights for my birthday. The wife says it's ok.
installed apr stage 1 chip. Love the new power, also got a flex pipe to fix now because of it. Gonna go ahead and get the TT flex pipe and test pipe installed.
I wonder if your snub/engine/trans mounts are bad. If the engine is moving around too much, that can cause the flex joint to fail. How did your snub mount look when you had it apart for the timing belt?
not really sure, I did see what looked like rust on it???
Installed a boost gauge, NXS boost-controller (no N75 valve) and diverted the N249 and went with manifold control for the DV. Originally I wasn't able to get this thing to get past 16PSI on a UniS2 reflash. Boost leak test = nothing. Made sure my wastegate wasn't loose and it wasn't. Even tested it and it was doing it's job cracking open at 5PSI. Checked VAGCOM and my requested was within .5PSI of my actual boost which means.. it's a software issue. Not wanting to fret I took matters into my own hands and cranked up the PSI with a MBC.Now it feels like a true Stage 2.
But I do have one question. Folks running the MBC w/o a N75, did you leave the N75 in the TIP or completely removed it other then the electrical connection? I currently have it out of the TIP w/o any problems, but don't know what others have done. Let me know.
Dude, only noobs use wool from Scotland. We all know it makes your MPG decrease because the engine starts drinking too much. I used alpaca for mine. Only problem is my intake likes to spit when it feels threatened.
My intake in all it's ghetto'ness! Don't mind the gratuitous amounts of zipties that I had to use to keep it in place, lol. And also don't mind the SAIP and vacuum shit. It had to go back on temporarily because of emissions testing. It's going to be back off tomorrow. I just need some downtime to send my ECU off to k0mprsd to flash all the readiness monitors to permanent on.
And some food for thought. I think I like the car rail-less.. but filling in those holes is going to SUCK!
Last edited by Gene 1.8T; 01-31-2013 at 07:50 PM.
I didnt do all of this in one day but with the last three weeks. I bought a 2002 Passat Wagon 2.8L v6 5 speed front wheel drive. I have done: timing belt kit, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, pcv tubes (all of them), serp belt, front brake calipers, front brake rotors, brake booster, right front wheel bearing, fuel filter (very clogged), rear brake pads, resurface brake rotors, 6 spark plugs, BG restore, BG MOA, BG 44K, gallon+ vw red coolant, oil change (5w-30 valvoline), brake fluid flush (thanks booster), window tint, new used summer wheels, clear bumper markers, and shark antenna for now. pics soon.....
Installed a boost gauge, NXS boost-controller (no N75 valve) and diverted the N249 and went with manifold control for the DV. Originally I wasn't able to get this thing to get past 16PSI on a UniS2 reflash. Boost leak test = nothing. Made sure my wastegate wasn't loose and it wasn't. Even tested it and it was doing it's job cracking open at 5PSI. Checked VAGCOM and my requested was within .5PSI of my actual boost which means.. it's a software issue. Not wanting to fret I took matters into my own hands and cranked up the PSI with a MBC.
But I do have one question. Folks running the MBC w/o a N75, did you leave the N75 in the TIP or completely removed it other then the electrical connection? I currently have it out of the TIP w/o any problems, but don't know what others have done. Let me know.
Do you have any concerns about pre-detonating? I am stage 1+ on unitronic and am only hitting 10psi instead of the 18 it should push. Im thinking wastegate because i know the n75 is good and I pulled my MBC and reran the DV through the n249 instead of the IM because the guy who chipped it made me nervous of pre-det....
No worries of pre-detonation because I'm running a FMIC and so far my IATs are all nominal. EGTs do get a little high when making back to back runs, but nothing out of the ordinary. I've made sure to monitor everything while turning up the boost on VAGCOM. I don't think I'd be brave enough to make the jump without having the ability to monitor this stuff.
discovered the a/c blower resistor burned .... ugh.
burned blower.jpg
Rinsed all the road grime and salt off as it was a sunny 12° C/ 54°F outside and the opportunity present itself again anytime too soon.
Three codes come up so booked a service appointments
Leak at the intake manifold
Dirty fuel injectors
Broken PVC pipes from SAIP
Bad Combi/Diverter valve.
Incorrect wiring for solenoid
Dirty Throttle Body
So long $1100.00 it was nice knowing you.
Last edited by StuHuck; 01-31-2013 at 09:59 AM.
Got my adjustable upper control arms installed and set. The car is now lowered and the camber is still within spec.
Another Washingtonian! Do you have any pictures of your car lowered? Which particular set of UCAs did you go with?
I went outside to go replace my driver rear door shell, pulled the electrical connectors, grub screw and realized I need a STUBBY t45 torx socket to get the lower hinge bolt out.
Went on Snapon.com and ordered one for $25 shipped to my door. Checked out the whole 7 piece set and that was $170, so no thanks.
I purchased a set from gruvenparts in Atlanta. Getting them installed and set properly has been nothing short of torture, so if you are inclined to do it, you are welcome to learn from my pain. The product is fine - but you gotta get the work done by someone who knows what they're doing. The first shop that worked on it for me butchered the whole setup, despite the fact that they were highly recommended. I wouldn't hire them to clean out my cat's litter box, much less for any other service.
I've got photos posted in various places on here, but nothing recent. Gotta wait until I get it cleaned and waxed before posting anything in public!
"I went outside to go replace my driver rear door shell, pulled the electrical connectors, grub screw and realized I need a STUBBY t45 torx socket to get the lower hinge bolt out.
Went on Snapon.com and ordered one for $25 shipped to my door. Checked out the whole 7 piece set and that was $170, so no thanks."
Damn...tools are expensive. Fortunately, if you buy good stuff, it only hurts once (when you pay for them)!
Replaced the original coolant expansion tank. The old one was giving a fault at the coolant level sensor, with cold engine and only when the outdoor temperature was below -15C.
G12 tastes like grapefruit juice, mmmmh. Don't ask.
Attempted to fix my trunk locking mechanism/assembly, but there were no broken parts or bits of plastic that fell out. I removed it and saw where the two claws or whatever sometimes didn't meet in order to lock. When I get home in a couple days I guess I'll take it apart again and try to lube it up. It seems it's just sticking when the long side triggers the lock. There are two pieces that should meet in order to lock around the bolt on the body of the car, but I tested and saw the two sides didn't always come together.
Had it towed to the body shop...
Lost traction on a super slick road last Monday. It was snowing earlier in the day and raining the rest, and it was just dipping below freezing. The road was recently repaved and had not been sanded or salted at all. I turned onto it and instantly lost traction, ended up sliding into some guys front yard and up onto a rock. No smoke, airbags, or fluids, but the car would immediately die after starting. Had it towed to a garage hoping to quickly fix the cracked intercooler, but the mechanic told me the body damage was causing the belts to rub, so it had to be taken to a body shop. Took care of that today.
A big oops:
Yesterday I installed some Vortex rear door sun blinds, they're a nice design.
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Damn...that hurts to look at. I hope it gets fixed properly.Had it towed to the body shop...
Lost traction on a super slick road last Monday. It was snowing earlier in the day and raining the rest, and it was just dipping below freezing. The road was recently repaved and had not been sanded or salted at all. I turned onto it and instantly lost traction, ended up sliding into some guys front yard and up onto a rock. No smoke, airbags, or fluids, but the car would immediately die after starting. Had it towed to a garage hoping to quickly fix the cracked intercooler, but the mechanic told me the body damage was causing the belts to rub, so it had to be taken to a body shop. Took care of that today.
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Passat
1999 Volkswagen Passat
Passat
"Piss-Ant"
Beast
Frank(enberry)
2004 Volkswagen Passat
My Car
