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Hi,
I am back from vacation and found my car battery is dead. And somehow the key does not work on the door. But it does works on the truck though.
So i am trying to unlock the door to unlock the hood for connecting the battery with another car. But i dont know how.
Does anybody here knows how can i unlock the door? Maybe from the trunk?
Thanks
Well I found this link, which you probably found too.. but i don't think it will do u much good...
http://www.towman.com/carentry/lockout_9_05.html
From the trunk i didnt see a way to open it from the inside.. i sure would hate to be locked in that thing!
A trick my freind tried and it work, get booster cables and run the posotive ( red ) to the alternator of the car, and earth the negative cable ( black ). This did work for him as obviously the main big wire to the alternator leads upto the battery to give that life.
Give that ago, obivously you will want a decent jack to get under the car to try this, seems the only was as you cant get in the car to pop the bonnet
Thanks guys for the advise,
I will definitely try to hook the booster cable to the alternator as Lee said.
One more question, When i insert the key in the door. It is only 1/2 way in. is this normal? It was dark so i could not see if there is anything stuck inside.
And i never used my key to unlock the door ( always used the remote).
Thanks
You have a few options...
The same happened to me also but the previous owner was kind enough to have taken the lock mechanism from the driver's door and replaced it with a painted blank like on the other 3 doors.
So I opened the trunk and used a screwdriver to pop the lock on the rear seat back, crawled in and opened the door from the inside.
After I got the car open I went and bought a battery charger which you can plug into the 12V plug in the trunk. This would also be an option for you consider you would be able to use the fob to open the doors and then pop the hood and hook up a conventional charger.
The third is to do as suggested and go with the alternator connection but if you cannot open the hood have fun gaining access to the alternator from below.
I can't give you any input about the key insertion as I don't have that option.
Good luck.
[QUOTE=hu vw;2443875]You have a few options...
The third is to do as suggested and go with the alternator connection but if you cannot open the hood have fun gaining access to the alternator from below.
Yes thats the only problem just need a good old jack but its the only thing to try which is free and does not involve replacing any parts
hope it works
I didn't have to replace any parts after using the screwdriver to push the lock open on the rear seat.
And I don't know how plugging a charger into a 12V outlet in the trunk would require a part replacement either.
I now carry a small charger capable of being plugged into my trunk outlet and somebody's car outlet with a charging battery just in case this happens to me again.
I wonder if he clipped onto the big cable to the STARTER, and not the alternator? Is the access to this terminal easier than it is to the alternator from below the car?Originally Posted by lee_316uk
If you're going to try that procedure, make sure you get the positive cable clipped securely to the proper lug on the starter without touching ANYTHING ELSE. If it's touching anything else metal, you'll have a short, a fireworks show and potentially melt things. If it touches other terminals on the starter, the starter will spin up, engage the flywheel and start turning the engine over. If the car has a manual transmission and it's in gear, the wheels will also start turning.
Once the positive cable is connected to both cars and triple checked, connect the negative cable to any solidly grounded frame member on the dead car. The last connection to make will be the ground cable onto the working car. Make sure everyone is clear of the dead car before you make this last connection (no one under it, in front of it, behind it). Be ready to disconnect immediately if something goes wrong.
If I were you, I'd go with the trunk 12v power outlet jump as suggested above. You don't need to fully charge the battery through this outlet. All you need to do is get enough power into the dead car to open the locks. Simple and safe.
I was also wondering if it wouldn't be easier to use the starter to "juice" the system as it is lower on the engine.
I wouldn't want to be the one digging around in an engine bay with a set of jumper cables. I have images of torture scenes going through my mind!!!
yes maybe a bit of a night mare to get to, the only thing you could do is get a wire ( thick power wire) to clip in the booster end and touch the wire onto the positve that way no big bulky booster in the wayI was also wondering if it wouldn't be easier to use the starter to "juice" the system as it is lower on the engine.
I wouldn't want to be the one digging around in an engine bay with a set of jumper cables. I have images of torture scenes going through my mind!!!
Just depends if you have a good jack to get it up high enough for a good bit of room underneath
good luck
Hi,
Today i just come down and realized i dont have a good enough jack to lift it up high enough to get to the alternator.
So it left me 2 choice:
- Use screwdriver to push the lock inside the trunk! How?
- And how to plug the charge in the 12V plug? Where is this plug? What kind of charger needed? Can i rent it from canadian tire?
Can anyone explain to me either of the 2 above?
My car is 2000 Passat ATW.
Else i will have to tow it or call auto locksmith.
I don't know if the 2000 models had a 12V plug in the trunk like the 2001.5 and later models. I know my B5.5 does and it is on the right hand bottom side of the trunk floor. The battery charger/jumper unit you need should have a plug for a cigarette lighter to plug into the 12V outlet in the trunk. It will supply enough power to run the car's electrical system so you can use your remote to open the doors. I had to wait about 5 minutes after gaining access to the battery and hooking up a regular battery charger when my battery drained down to open the car with the fob.
To push the seat back lock open you will have to feel around to find where the shaft is which the lock catches on. From that you should be able to find the latch for the seat back. I did the one on the rear passenger side because it is the bigger of the two halves. You will have to guide the screwdriver shaft (flat head not phillips) in with your finger to be able to push the top half of the latch open. If you look at your door latches they are similar in construction, two halves which close around a shaft. I just hope your rear seat back latches aren't locked with the key from inside. If they are then you won't be able to use a screwdriver.
Good luck!
Hi,
I just check and found there is a 12v plug in the back of the car like you describe. But i thought this plug is the output power, not the input power. Can you still be able to charge it?
Are you talking about something like this:
http://dipa.manufacturer.globalsourc...mp-Starter.htm
http://dipa.manufacturer.globalsourc...mp-Starter.htm
output and input both require the same basic electrical theory, a complete circuit. and no, those devices will not work as you want. what you would have to do is get a solid 12V charger made to use ports like that. these kinds of devices are typically meant for a keep-alive memory for immbolizers and such, and typically use a 9v battery or something of the sort. press a button and those 9v's are toast. so little power. now, i do suppose that if you go from cig-lighter to cig-lighter between two cars this should give you enough power to get the vehicle opened...
and actually, here's another idea. in your trunk, give a good kick to the back of one of the seats. see if one of them isn't latched fully. a non-fullly latched symptom occurs every now and then with my seat-backs after using them.
Yes, those are exactly what I am talking about. The one I have has the "Test" and "Charge" option also.
You can also try getting the seat open by trying Mr. Sipes advice also.
Good luck.
I'd look for a product like this...
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...a%3DG%26um%3D1
The power outlet in your trunk is always live (read: always connected to ground and battery plus).
Battery power can be drawn through that socket AND ALSO replenished through that socket.
You want to apply charging power to that socket in a CONTROLLED manner. If you simply hook up a fully charged car battery (or another car) to that socket with no means of controlling the amp flow, you'll pop fuses. An empty battery can draw a LOT of amps. This is why jumper cables use such heavy gauge wire. Thinner wire would melt with that much amperage flowing. The trunk power outlet is fused at 15 or 20 amps. Go beyond that, fuse blows and this method of charging a locked car is no longer an option.The products you linked would work as long as they afford some means of regulating the amp flow.
Get a cigarette lighter trickle charger. Check the instructions to be sure the max amps it provides are less than the trunk outlet fuse is rated at. Hook it up. Walk away from the car for an hour. Come back and try the locks.
Slim jim!
may not work... that really depends what the car does with the door open...I'd look for a product like this...
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...a%3DG%26um%3D1
The power outlet in your trunk is always live (read: always connected to ground and battery plus).
Battery power can be drawn through that socket AND ALSO replenished through that socket.
You want to apply charging power to that socket in a CONTROLLED manner. If you simply hook up a fully charged car battery (or another car) to that socket with no means of controlling the amp flow, you'll pop fuses. An empty battery can draw a LOT of amps. This is why jumper cables use such heavy gauge wire. Thinner wire would melt with that much amperage flowing. The trunk power outlet is fused at 15 or 20 amps. Go beyond that, fuse blows and this method of charging a locked car is no longer an option.
Get a cigarette lighter trickle charger. Check the instructions to be sure the max amps it provides are less than the trunk outlet fuse is rated at. Hook it up. Walk away from the car for an hour. Come back and try the locks.
to my knowledge trickle charges charge on a .2A-2A power level, and most times as soon as you even open a door modules can steal almost the same amount of power in their most basic operation.
basically, an open door activates X-module. X-module negates the charge
it's worth a shot, but what you would have to do is plug it in, put the wire carefuly on the weather seal, and close the trunk firmly enough for it to sense it's fully locked.
go have lunch, come back. the downside to the trickle is that it takes time. it's not an immediate affect as if you were to have a secondary battery.
hell, if your battery has failed and doesn't hold a charge anymore, or has an internal break of it's construction thus having an internal open circuit in the battery itself, you're SOL in that case. trickle is going to LAUGH at you.
haven't worked since the mid 90's. most cars are specifically designed not to allow those to be affective
you also can't buy most (if not all) lock picking tools without a special locksmith license. same kinda thing as if you were trying to buy large amounts of freon. (you would need a handlers license)
personally, thinking over all that has been said here so far, my favorite alternative has been either the positive to the starter (albeit very dangerous considering the area...) or possibly hopping on the back of the alternator. if you grab a good hold on the bug nut of the alternator, there is no chance of the car moving.
of course, we could just say "to hell" with worrying about the wheels moving if you just get the damn thing up on jackstands, as you should ANY TIME EVER under the car.
When my battery was dead after returning from vacation I was faced with the same situation. I even went as far as talking to the local VW dealer's service manager and bringing out to the car to take a look for himself. Scratched his head, called a technician, and ultimately told me I had two options. Drill the lock mechanism or bust the small window behind the rear door. So with that advice...
The next morning I took a look at another B5.5 rear seat locking mechanism, crawled in the trunk of the car with a screwdriver, became comfortable as I foresaw a long drawn out ordeal, and proceeded to pop the lock on the passenger rear seat in all of about 3 minutes. No hassle, nothing damaged, no worrying about foot prints on the seat back, no poor man's welding of parts with jumper cables...just relief over being able to once again access my car.
Good luck if you haven't already called a locksmith.
I'd just spray PB Blaster or WD40 into the lock cylinder on the door and keep at working the key in. It's frozen from disuse, and should loosen back up. Worth a shot.
Best first option. My lock cylinder feels like it has sand in it because of non-use.
After/during that I would just flip the back seat down from the trunk and crawl in and open the drivers door... then jump the thing
Bet you wish you had a wagon about now
Can you push the rear seat down and climb in through the trunk?
I am very appreciated your help.
So, I called a buddy, he is a mechanic. And he did just as zak99B5 suggest. So the door lock was actually working but it was frozen from disuse.
So i could open the door and jump start the car.
BUT, after letting the car running (idling) for 50 minutes. I thought it was okie. I switched the key off, and try to start it again. It did not start ...
So is this because i should have driven it instead of letting it idle only? can the battery be charged while idling? So tomorrow i will have to jump start again and drive another hour or so and see if it is better.
Do you think there is problem with the battery? The battery is about 4 years old though.
Thanks guys
Sorry to hear about the battery troubles, the best thing to do would be to park your Passat in your home garage but leave the cars doors unlocked and remove all valuables. Lock your garage. Take your cars battery to your independent mechanic and have him fully charge the battery. Then put it back in the car, you should then be fine, but if your not driving the car daily, the charge will weaken after some time.
Another option (easier) would be to go to a Canadian Tire and buy a battery charger (not booster), charge up the battery fully and then just return the charger to get your money back.
congrats on getting back in!I am very appreciated your help.
So, I called a buddy, he is a mechanic. And he did just as zak99B5 suggest. So the door lock was actually working but it was frozen from disuse.
So i could open the door and jump start the car.
BUT, after letting the car running (idling) for 50 minutes. I thought it was okie. I switched the key off, and try to start it again. It did not start ...
So is this because i should have driven it instead of letting it idle only? can the battery be charged while idling? So tomorrow i will have to jump start again and drive another hour or so and see if it is better.
Do you think there is problem with the battery? The battery is about 4 years old though.
Thanks guys
and 50 minutes is enough to give it enough charge to start the motor again. i ran mine down a while back while installing a few toys (walked away and forgot while radio was on) and killed the battery. idled for about 10-20 mins and it was fine.
you have a dead battery. it just finally decided to go ahead and give up the ghost this one last time. chances are that it was already near-death, just not quite there. that last drain or cold snap you got wasted it.
Thanks mrgreek,
Do you think i can return the Battery Charger after used?
Today i was about doing the same at Walmart, but i asked them first see if i could return for refund. I told them i want to test if the charger help my battery. But they said no.
You should be able to at Canadian tire, but maybe they have specific rules on this type of product. But as long as you keep the item in new condition and pack it up the way you got it, you should be fine. And say that you never used it.
When did you last replace the battery? I'm betting that even if you get a charger and charge it up, the battery will not hold the charge. The cold winters you get up north are hard on batteries. 3 winters are about all a battery is good for. I bet it's dead. Buy a new one.
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1999 Volkswagen Passat
1999 Volkswagen Passat 1.8T
